2015 Toyota Tundra — Known Issues & Recalls

Your truck shuts down unexpectedly after running for about 2 minutes, as if the ignition was turned off while driving. After waiting about 30 seconds, you can restart it, but it won't start immediately after shutting off—something seems to need time to reset. This happens whether you're driving or idling in your driveway, creating a safety hazard on the highway. The issue likely involves diagnosing the ignition system, fuel pump relay, or engine control module to find what's causing the unexpected shutdown.

Your truck died while you were driving and wouldn't start again. You also noticed terrible fuel economy and rough running. The dealer diagnosed a defective fuel pump—the same problem Toyota recalled in other model years—and replaced it with the part used in those recalls.

Your truck is having trouble starting in cold weather because the fuel pump and engine computer aren't communicating correctly about fuel type. The system is incorrectly detecting 56% ethanol content in your fuel even though you've only used regular gasoline, which causes the engine to run on the wrong fuel settings and reduces fuel economy. This appears to be a known issue affecting multiple Tundras. Fixing this will likely involve reprogramming the engine computer (ECU) and possibly replacing or recalibrating the fuel sensor.

When you use your turn signal at night, all your lights randomly shut off completely—including headlights and cabin lights—leaving you unable to see the road. You can't find the light switch in the dark to turn them back on. This happens regularly and appears to be a known issue with a known fix that hasn't been addressed through a recall.

When you use your left turn signal, your headlights and tail lights shut off for a few seconds—whether you're driving or stopped. This is a recurring electrical issue that affects your visibility and safety lighting.

Your driver's side windshield wiper arm disconnected from the wiper transmission assembly during heavy rain, snow, or sleet without any warning, leaving you with only the passenger side wiper working. The plastic components that connect the wiper arms to the transmission wear out quickly and rust because they're not sealed against weather. This sudden loss of visibility while driving at highway speed in heavy weather created a dangerous situation that could have caused a crash.

The bolt that holds the driver's side wiper blade keeps coming loose, which makes the wiper stop working when you need it most—especially in bad weather. You'll notice the wiper blade either won't move or moves erratically. The fix will likely involve tightening or replacing the wiper blade bolt and potentially the wiper blade assembly itself.

Your headlights, dashboard lights, and radio are cutting out at random intervals without any pattern—sometimes after months pass, sometimes while driving on smooth roads, and sometimes even while stopped. This intermittent electrical loss is unpredictable and has happened multiple times. The issue likely involves checking the electrical connections, battery, or alternator to restore consistent power to these systems.

Your dashboard instrument lights don't illuminate during the day when headlights are set to automatic, making the gauges difficult to read and requiring you to look away from the road longer than is safe. The Toyota dealership suggested driving with parking lights on to illuminate the dash, but this is illegal during daytime. This design may cause drivers to forget to turn on headlights at dusk and increases distraction while reading vital instrument information.

Your steering rack is leaking power steering fluid without any warning light, causing your power steering to gradually fail. You'll need to regularly top off the power steering fluid to maintain steering function. The leak started small around 24,000 miles and may have been initially misdiagnosed as a suspension problem. Fixing this will likely require replacing the steering rack seal or the entire rack assembly.

Your steering column shaft has started making very loud knocking noises, and the bushing that holds it in place appears to be deteriorating or falling apart. This noise is coming from the upper part of the steering column. Fixing this will likely involve replacing the worn bushing and possibly the steering shaft itself.

Your brake pedal feels soft and sinks nearly to the floor before the brakes engage. You've had the brakes flushed, new brake fluid installed, and a new master cylinder replaced at the dealer, but the problem persists. Toyota is recommending replacement of the ABS actuator but cannot guarantee this will solve the issue.

Your tire experienced a sudden complete sidewall separation while driving at 75 mph on the freeway, nearly causing a rollover. The tire appeared to be in good condition beforehand, and there were no road hazards that contributed to the failure. The tire manufacturer or a tire professional should inspect the tire to determine the cause of the sidewall failure.

Your horn stopped working when you pressed the horn pad on your steering wheel, though it still works when activated by your key fob. The dealer found that the clock spring inside your steering wheel is defective, which is also affecting your airbag system. Replacing the clock spring should restore both the horn and airbag functionality.

Your front brake rotors warped within 5,000 miles of normal driving, causing vibrations when braking at highway speeds. The rear rotors also warped about 1,000 miles later. Even after having the front rotors resurfaced at 3,000 miles, they warped again within 1,000 miles. The issue was resolved after replacing both sets with higher-quality rotors and ceramic brake pads. Fixing this typically involves replacing warped rotors and potentially upgrading to higher-quality brake components.

Your truck got stuck in 2nd gear while driving and wouldn't shift higher, even though no warning lights came on. A mechanic found that two solenoids (shift solenoid C and pressure control solenoid D) had failed, requiring a complete transmission rebuild to fix the problem.

Your engine's timing cover has a sealant problem that's causing oil to leak. The dealer knows about this issue but may want to charge you for engine removal to reapply the sealant and stop the leak. Leaking oil can damage your engine and timing components over time. The fix typically involves removing the engine to access and reseal the timing cover.

Your gear shifter is getting stuck in Park and won't move smoothly. Toyota indicated this is a common problem and quoted $1,000 to replace the entire shifter assembly. The fix will likely involve replacing the complete gear shifter mechanism.

When outdoor temperatures drop to 55°F or below, your engine misfires on cylinder 2, causing the check engine light to come on and the traction control to appear disabled on your display. You'll feel significant shaking and juddering when accelerating to 70 mph, and the engine light may flash. Once temperatures rise above 60°F, the problem disappears completely. The issue likely involves a faulty spark plug, ignition coil, or fuel injector for cylinder 2, or possibly a problematic engine coolant temperature sensor that's causing the engine computer to run incorrectly in cold conditions.

Your truck may have an issue with the secondary air injection pump, where water and gasoline are mixing inside the pump assembly and causing it to fail. Since this is part of your emissions system, the owner believes this could create a safety hazard. The fix would likely involve inspecting the air injection pump and replacing it if contamination or failure is found.