2013 Dodge Dart Electrical Problems

I purchased it and within two months the cars breaks were slow to respond, or would lock up and the parking break did not work. The car suddenly shifts into neutral while driving on the high way and surface roads, loses power and has nearly caused multiple accidents. Other times when i try to shift, it does not respond. Car stalls going up hill and at stoplights. I took it for diagnostics twice and both places stated that the symptoms are mirroring the earlier recall problems. One said the spark plugs are ruined from some other issue. When I called the manufacturer they stated that it had previously been repaired on recall. I contacted the dealership where I purchased it and they told me the car was sold "as Is". The problems only got worse. The battery would go dead all of the time. I replaced it and still had the same problem. Windows wouldn't go up and down properly, sun roof would not open and close. Every time I used the blinker to turn right, the windshield wipers would turn on. Now they will not turn off at all. It also turned out that the tires had dry rot. When i went in for an oil change i was told that oil was back flowing into a part of the car that it shouldn't. Now I have to pay $300+ plus towing to have the dealership do a diagnostic so that I can ask the manufacturer to cover the cost of repairing it (again) because the first repairs done when the previous owner had it, did not work. The car is a death trap. At this point the car has been sitting until I can afford repairs because Ive been scared to death to drive it. Too many near misses, once with a semi, when the car shut down while doing almost 70mph. It should be illegal to sell this car to anyone new or used. I have an appointment at the Dodge/Chrysler dealership for repairs, but since it was supposedly "fixed" previously, i have very little faith that it can or will be properly repaired.

The contact owns a 2013 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while the vehicle was parked, it was discovered that the key fob became inoperable. The contact stated that the vehicle was shut off and the contact was not able to remove the key fob from the ignition. The dealer was contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 118,000.

The contact owns a 2013 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled on several occasions. An unknown message was displayed. The contact was unable to pull to the side of the road on one occasion. The vehicle was jumpstarted with assistance. The contact was able to continue driving. The contact replaced the battery; however, the failure persisted. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that the alternator had failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that the vehicle later failed to start and was repossessed. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 165,464.

Loss of brakes at random times. Pedal will go all the way to the floor before stopping.

My car has an extremely bad rough idle. I’ve had an alignment done, new tires, new spark plugs. I’ve done so much work to this car. I have done some extremely deep research and it is a VERY common issue in the 2013 Dodge dart. One thing I also read, is it could be caused due to all of the ground point nuts being painted over, not creating a strong circuit for the ground. That should be a recall because I cannot physically replace all of those nuts. If that’s not the issue, there needs to be an investigation to figure out why this car feels like it will stall out, or I’m going to lose a tire going 65 on the interstate. Something isn’t right with this car and the dealership needs to diagnose it for free knowing it’s such a common issue! I have a very trusted, fully certified mechanic, he has looked at my car, and he is stumped too. No one can figure this out

The micro shift on the shifter does not push the lever up enough to register that the car is in park. You think your car is in park until you go to take the key out and it does not come out. OR I parked in a parking spot thinking I put it in park as my car displayed park and it started rolling. There is a whole forum about this issue . So I know I’m one of hundreds. This is really unsafe.

WELL MY CAR HEADLIGHT AND THE PANELING CAUGHT ON FIRE IN MY CAR WENT TO CAR HOP TO ADVISE THEM TOOK THE CAR TO ONE OF THERE DEALERS ADVISED THAT THEY DON'T DO ELECTRICAL AT THE SAME TIME THE RECALL CAME IN ADVISED ME THAT A RECALL WAS NEEDED TOO K IT TO DEALERSHIP AND AS OF NOW 30 DAYS BEHIND ON THE PART ADVISED CARHOP THAT THE REPAIRS HAVE BEEN MADE BEFORE I BROUGHT THE CAR THAT WASN'T DONE CORRECTLY WHICH MADE ME HAVE TO PAY FOR THE RECALL WORK THEY SWEAR THEY DIDN'T BIT THE STATE AND CARFAX SAY OTHERWISE IT WASN'T DONE BY DODGE IN NO STATE BUT BY THERE MECHANICS AT THIS TIME THE CAR IS DANGEROUS TO DRIVE IT'S STILL AT DODGE AND CARHOP SAID THEY WILL RESELL IT TO ANOTHER FAMILY EVEN THOUGH I ADVISED THEM THE PANEL CAUGHT ON FIRE AND THERE IS A SHORT

BLUETOOTH FAILED AT 37000 MILES HVAC BLOWER MOTOR FAILED AT 50K EBRAKE ON CALIPER LOCKED UP 65K ALTERNATOR GONE AT 70 K MASTER CYLINDER GONE AT 74K REVERSE LOCK OUT CABLE FOR MANUAL BROKE AT 50 K PASSENGER SIDE VISOR BROKE OFF AT 38K BACK UP CAMERA MALFUNCTIONING AT 74 K SPEEDOMETER DROPS TO ZERO WHILE DRIVING RANDOMLY RADIO SCREEN GOES BLANK RANDOMLY OIL LEAKING FROM VALVE COVER SEALS AND OIL PAN

ANY PHONE CONNECTED TO U-CONNECT WILL DISCONNECT WHILE TALKING ON THE CAR STEREO. I FEEL VERY UNSAFE WHEN I HAVE TO LOOK AT MY PHONE WHILE DRIVING TO TALK ON SPEAKER RATHER THAN THE CAR STEREO. I'VE HAD ENOUGH, AND I WANT I WANT THIS FIXED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

MY CAR RANDOMLY WILL NOT START THINKING THAT IT IS NOT IN PARK. THIS ALSO CAUSES THE DIAGNOSTIC ELECTRONICS TO GO HAYWIRE. I'M TOLD THERE IS A BUSHING THAT WILL FIX THIS PROBLEM, BUT DODGE REFUSES TO PROVIDE THIS PART TO MY LOCAL DEALER. THE BUSHING IS DESIGNED TO CAUSE THE CAR TO KNOW IT IS IN PARK SO IT WILL START. I'M ALSO TOLD THIS IS A RECALL ISSUE, BUT I RECEIVED NO RECALL NOTICE FROM DODGE.

WHILE DRIVING THE SCREEN WILL RANDOMLY GO COMPLETELY BLACK AND THEN START FLICKERING WHITE - MY DASH IS NOW DOING THE SAME, SIMULTANEOUSLY. HOWEVER, THE SCREEN LIGHTS (SPEED, MILES, MPG, ETC) STAY DIM TO WHERE I CAN'T EVEN READ WHAT IS SAYS. MY SPEEDOMETER AND GAUGES WILL GIVE OUT AND THEN PROCEED TO QUICKLY FLICKER UP AND DOWN. AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS OF THIS HAPPENING, THE WHOLE ELECTRONIC SYSTEM RESETS ITSELF. THIS HAS HAPPENED 5 TIMES WITHIN THE LAST TWO DAYS, WITHIN A MAXIMUM OF 4 TOTAL HOURS DRIVING TIME. WHEN STARTING MY CAR, IT HESITATES TO START - IT MAKES CLICKING NOISES PRIOR TO ACTUALLY STARTING. THE BATTERY IS FAIRLY NEW AS WELL. MY CENTER CONSOLE RANDOMLY STOPS WORKING, I HAVE ZERO CONTROL OVER THE RADIO / CLIMATE FUNCTION. EVEN AFTER DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY, THE PROBLEM RESUMES. THE UCONNECT DOESN'T WORK - NO PHONE SYSTEM, OR BLUETOOTH MUSIC. THE BACK-UP CAMERA HAS COMPLETELY GONE OUT. THERE SEEMS TO BE SEVERAL ISSUES WITH THE DODGE DART THAT GO UNSOLVED AND ARE A HUGE SAFETY RISK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE SPEEDOMETER, CLIMATE CONTROL, RADIO, AND INSTRUMENTAL PANEL GAUGES STOPPED WORKING. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 90,000.

AIR BAG LIGHTS IS ON CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS CAR RUNNING HOT FAM TURNING IN WRONG DIRECTIONS I KEEP PUTTING BRAKE FLUID IN ONCE A WEEK HEAT COME ON M OFF WHEN IT FEEL LIKE IT TIRE LITE I KEEP SPENDING MONEY FOR TIRES HEAD REST IS NOT NORMAL IT PUSHES MY NECK OUT WHEN I'M DRIVING NOW MY NECK N BACK HURTS

CAR WILL NOT START. IT WILL TURN ON BUT NOT START THE CAR. BATTERY AND STARTER WERE REPLACED. MECHANIC NOTED THAT THE FUSE BOX WAS HOT, EVEN THOUGHT THE ENGINE WAS COOL. HE FEELS THAT IT COULD BE THE COMPUTER OR FUSE BOX. THE CAR WILL SOMETIMES START. BUT, I HAVE BEEN STRANDED AND CANNOT RELY ON IT TO START. COMPUTER DIAGNOSIS DOES NOT COME UP WITH ANYTHING. REACHING OUT TO THE DODGE DART OWNERS COMMUNITY, THIS SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN PROBLEM. SO FAR, NO ONE KNOW WHAT TO DO. THE DEALERSHIP WANTS TO CHARGE A GREAT DEAL OF MONEY ON COMPUTER DIAGNOSTICS WHEN IT WON'T HELP.

RECALL MAY BE THE PROBLEM. CAR RAN JUST FINE UNTIL WE SHUT IT OFF WAITED 30 MINUTES TRYING TO TURN IT BACK ON AND MESSAGE DISPLAYED SERVICE TRANSMISSION NO CURE FOUND AUTOSTICK NOT RECOGNIZED. VEHICLE RAN FOR 400 MILES DROVE PERFECTLY FINE WE STOPPED FOR A BITE TO EAT FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES AND CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN.

SINCE MARCH 2019 CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS COME ONE 3 TIMES. MY CAR HAS EITHER STALLED IN MIDDLE OF INTERSECTION AND/OR HAS A BUCKING SENSATION AND THEN CHECK ENGINE TURNS ON. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE THAT IT KEEPS OCCURRING. ONE TIME THEY REPLACED BATTERY, NEXT TIME RECALL V34 AND AGAIN TODAY. THERE HAS TO BE SOMETHING GOING ON WITH THIS MODEL. I DO NOT FEEL SAFE.THIS HAPPENS WHILE I AM DRIVING.

THE SHIFTER CABLE BUSHING ON THE TRANSMISSION END OF THE SHIFTER CABLE WHICH CAN DETERIORATE AND BECOME DETACHED FROM THE TRANSMISSION. THIS CONDITION CAN RESULT IN THE INABILITY OF THE DRIVER TO ACTUALLY SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION, EVEN THOUGH THE DRIVER MAY MOVE THE SHIFTER HANDLE.

THE RIBBON CABLE THAT CONTROLS THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS HAS BEEN SEVERED, DUE TO REPEATED USE OF THE BLINKERS ON THE SAME CONTROL. THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS ALWAYS RUN NOW, AT A LOW SPEED. THEY CAN NOT BE STOPPED, SPED UP, AND CAN NO LONGER USE THE WIPER FLUID DISPENSER.

CAR WILL IDLE ROUGHLY WHILE IN DRIVE AND BREAK IS APPLIE, IF IN NEUTRAL IDLE ISN'T ROUGH. J HAVE CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS, GOTTEN A TUNE UP, CHANGED THE AIR FILTER AND NOTHING HAS HELPED. OCCASIONALLY BACK PASSENGER WONT GO UP,RADIO SCREEN WILL OCCASIONALLY TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING AND RADIO OFTEN FILLED WITH STATIC.

OUR VEHICLE KEEPS SHUTTING OFF ON HIGHWAYS, ROADS, ETC. WE ALWAYS HAVE CHILDREN IN THE CAR. WHEN WE CAN FINALLY START IT AGAIN THE WHOLE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM THEN WANTS TO SHUT DOWN AND THE SCREEN STAYS BLACK FOR A LONG TIME.

CAR FLASHES CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, TURNS ON AND OFF MULTIPLE TIMES ON ITS OWN, UNEXPECTEDLY SHIFTS INTO NEUTRAL, OCCASIONALLY GOES FORWARD WHEN IN REVERSE (R), STEERING WHEEL LOCKS WHILE DRIVING, TAKES A LOT OF PRESSURE ON THE ACCELERATION PEDAL TO MOVE FORWARD

TAMARA RECALL. I WAS DRIVING MY DART HOME FROM WORK THIS EVENING WHEN I NOTICED A POWER LOSS AND A BURNING SMELL. ONCE I PULLED CAR OVER I REALIZED IT WAS ON FIRE. FIRE STARTED JUST BY THE BATTERY. THE CAR IS A TOTAL LOSS.

DECK COMES OPEN WHEN AUTO IS IN MOTION OR SITTING IDLE. AS I WAS DRIVING THE DECK OPENED WIDE BLOCKING VIEW THROUGH REAR WINDOW. I CLOSED THE DECK AND DROVE HOME.THE . THE NEXT MORNING THE DECK HAD OPENED AGAIN.

DURING COLD WEATHER OF 20 F OR LOWER REMOTE START, PUSH START, AND MAIN DASH/TOUCH SCREEN WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY. CAR WILL NOT CORRECTLY START BY REMOTE/PUSH START AND STALLS OUT PERIODICALLY DESPITE HAVING BEEN SERVICED FOR RECALL ASSOCIATED WITH THIS ISSUE. MAIN DASH/ TOUCH SCREEN WILL NOT TURN ON AT CAR START WHICH MAKES HEAT/COOLING/RADIO/REAR CAMERA/ SEAT HEATING INACCESSIBLE AND UNCONTROLLABLE. MULTIPLE RESTARTS DOES NOT FIX THE PROBLEM AND WHILE DRIVING IT WILL NOT COME ON. ANYTHING CONTROLLED BY DASH/TOUCH SCREEN IS LOCKED TO THE SETTINGS THEY WERE LAST TIME THE DASH/ TOUCH SCREEN WAS ACCESSIBLE. ACTUAL CONTROLE KNOBS DO NOT WORK WHEN DASH/TOUCH SCREEN IS NOT FUNCTIONAL. IF SYSTEMS DO NOT WORK CORRECTLY AT START THEY DO NOT WORK CORRECTLY AFTER DRIVING AND 'WARMING' UP THE ENGIN. THIS CAR IS LOCATED IN MICHIGAN.

MY 2013 DODGE DART SXT WINDSHIELD WIPERS WILL NOT TURN OFF! THIS IS BECAUSE OF THE SWITCH NOT WORKING OR IT'S AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE. TURN SIGNALS STILL WORK BUT THIS IS A HAZARD THAT CAN GET DRIVER HURT. IT ADDS AN DISTRACTION.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND ON CITY STREETS, THE DASH BOARD LIGHTS WENT OUT AND THE NEEDLES FOR THE SPEED AND RPM WENT ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM LIKE THE CAR WAS CUT OFF. THE CAR WAS STILL IN MOTION. THE DASHBOARD SAID SERVICE ELECTRICAL BREAKING SYSTEM AND THE ENGINE LIGHT ELUMINATED. IT DID THIS MORE THAN ONE TIME. IT WILL FLICKER THE WARNING ON THE DASHBOARD AND THEN AT ONE POINT THE CAR CUT OFF WHILE ON CITY STREETS. AT ANOTHER TIME WHEN THE MESSAGE FLICKERED ON THE DASHBOARD THE BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON. THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES AND I AM CONCERNED ABOUT MY SAFETY IN THIS CAR AS WELL AS MY CHILDREN. THE RADIO CUT OFF AND THE EVENTUALLY CUT BACK ON.

ENGINE BEGAN TO RUN ROUGHLY AND THEN STALLED IN TRAFFIC WHILE AT A LIGHT. MANAGED TO RESTART AFTER SEVERAL TIRES WITH GAUGES CLICKING AND DASH LIGHTS FLICKERING AND DROVE HOME. CAR WILL NOT START NOW ALTHOUGH LIGHTS AND RADIO FUNCTION NORMALLY.

THE CAR KEEPS CUTTING OFF. I CRANK IT BACK UP AND IT RUNS FOR A LITTLE BIT AND CUTS RIGHT BACK OFF. I HAVE HAD THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR CHECK AND THAT'S NOT THE ISSUE.

CAR RECENTLY DIED. SHOWED SIGNS OF A BAD ALTERNATOR- LIGHTS, SENSORS, RADIO SHUT DOWN, POWER STEERING WENT OUT. REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR AND THE BATTERY. DROVE FINE FOR A FEW WEEKS AND ONCE AGAIN THE SAME THING HAPPENED. I AM NOW ON ALTERNATOR FOUR AND BATTERY NUMBER THREE. HAD THE NEW ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY PUT ON, STARTED THE CAR AND THE BATTERY LIGHT COME ON. HAD THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR TESTED, BOTH PASSED AS LONG AS RADIO AND HEAT WAS NOT ON. DROVE THE CAR FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES AND THE CAR DIED AGAIN LIKE THE ALTERNATOR WAS BAD EXCEPT IT'S NOT BECAUSE IT WAS TESTED. DEALERSHIP WAS OF ZERO HELP AND STILL CAN NOT FIGURE OUT THE ISSUE. THIS CAR IS A COMPLETE HAZARD WHILE DRIVING DUE TO IT DYING IN TRAFFIC.

CAR'S ENGINE COMPARTMENT BURST INTO FLAMES DURING COMMUTE TO WORK 0700 IN THE MORNING 10/09/2018, 65 DEGREE DAY IN 35 MPH ZONE. 54,000 MILES ON CAR. CAR WAS MOVING AT 30MPH WHEN ENGINE DIED AND CAR STARTED TO SMOKE FROM UNDER HOOD, WITHIN 60 SECONDS FLAMES APPEARED FROM HOOD, MY DAUGHTER DRIVING THE CAR GOT OUT JUST IN TIME SHE WAS THE ONLY PASSENGER. LOST ALL BELONGINGS IN CAR.

SO THIS IS LIKE THE THIRD(3) TIME THAT MY BATTERY HAS GONE DEAD. AT FIRST IT WAS THE STOCK BATTERY. THEN I BOUGHT A BRAND NEW ON AT MY LOCAL AUTO ZONE FOR $200 AND SOMETHING. THEN THE SAME THING KEEPS HAPPENING. ONCE IT HAPPENS THE STIRRING WHEEL BEGINS TO GET REALLY REALLY TIGHT UNTIL YOU CAN'T REALLY MOVE IT. ONE DAY MY GIRLFRIEND WAS DRIVING IT AND SHE GOT STOCK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY BECAUSE SHE COULDN'T MOVE IT. BUT IT IS REALLY SCARY BECAUSE YOU HAVE CARS BEHIND YOU DRIVING 60+MPH AND YOU PRAY THAT YOU DON'T GET HIT BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT NOBODY TO GET INJURED SPECIALLY YOU. HOPE DODGE DOES SOMETHING ABOUT. REALLY STARTING TO DISLIKE THE CAR I LOVE. :/

AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH I HAVE COME TO FIND THAT DODGE DARTS 2013 AND NEWER HAVE ISSUES WITH BATTERIES GOING DEAD. I HAVE HAD TO GET THE BATTERY REPLACED IN 2015 AND AND NOW HAVING IT REPLACED AGAIN. OTHER DODGE DART OWNERS HAVE REPORTED THIS ON MANY CAR BLOGS AND SIMILAR SITES. THERE IS NO REASON A CAR BUILT IN 2013 SHOULD GO THROUGH 3 BATTERIES IN 5 YEARS. I BELIEVE THIS IS A DESIGN DEFECT. I HAVE ATTACHED THE INVOICE FROM THE SERVICE IN 2015 AND CAN PROVIDE THE INVOICE FOR THIS SERVICE ONCE I RECEIVE IT.

I HAVE HAD TO TAKE THE CAR IN EVERY 2,000 MILES OR SO TO HAVE IT RECALIBRATED(ENGINE LIGHT ON), THE DRIVERS HEADLIGHT WENT OUT, SHOP WHERE I BOUGHT IT SAID IT'S THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY, BOUGHT ONE AND HAD REGULAR MECHANIC PUT IN, DID NOT WORK. MY REGULAR MECHANIC SAID IT IS PROBABLY THE HEADLIGHT CONTROL MODULE, AND SINCE I NEED TO TAKE IT IN AGAIN FOR RECALIBRATION I AM TRYING TO FIND OUT IF THE MODULE WAS CHECKED AND HAVE IT REPLACED. SORRY I BOUGHT THIS CAR, IT'S IN THE SHOP EVERY 3-4 MONTHS!!!

IN THE LAST 4 WEEKS, WHILE DRIVING, MY CAR HAS DISPLAYED A "SERVICE TRANSMISSION" ERROR AND "GEAR NOT AVAILABLE ERROR." THE FIRST TIME WAS ON I-10 AND IT OCCURRED AND I HAD TO PULL ON THE SIDE OR THE INTERSTATE. MY CARD WAS IN D, BUT IT WOULD NOT DRIVE OR REVERSE. I TURNED IT OFF AND TRIED TO TURN IT BACK ON, BUT THE CAR WOULD NOT CRANK SAME SERVICE MESSAGES ABOVE POPPED UP. AFTER SITTING ON THE SIDE OF THE INTERSTATE FOR 20 MINS, I TURNED IT BACK OK AND I WAS ONLY ABLE TO GO ABOUT 30 MILES PER HOUR. I WAS ABLE TO GET BACK TO MY HOTEL ROOM. THE MESSAGE DISAPPEAR AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF, SO THE DEALERSHIP WAS UNABLE TO FIND THE PROBLEM. YESTERDAY, ON JULY 8, 2018, THE SAME PROBLEM OCCURRED. THIS TIME I WAS DRIVING ON INTERSTATE 75, GOING ABOUT 65 MPH, AND THE SAME ERROR MESSAGE POPPED UP AGAIN. I HAD TO PULLED TO THE SIDE OR THE INTERSTATE AGAIN, BECAUSE MY CAR WOULD NOT DRIVE. I TURNED IT OFF AGAIN AND WAITED FOR 5 MINS AND I WAS ABLE TO EASE BACK TO MY HOME. AS OF RIGHT NOW, THE DEALERSHIP STILL CAN'T FIND THE PROBLEM. THOUGH THEY CAN'T FIND THE PROBLEMS, I AM SEEING SEVERAL OWNERS EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUES WITH THEIR 2013 MODELS. I'VE FOUND SEVERAL FORUMS EXPLAINING THE SAME PROBLEM THAT I AM HAVING AS WELL AS YOUTUBE VIDEOS. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE GET DODGE TO DO A RECALL ON THIS ISSUE.

MY RADIO HAS BLACKED OUT FOR NO REASON. MY MILEAGE ON MY DIGITAL INSTRUMENT PANEL IS FLASHING. WHEN I TAKE IT TO THE DODGE DEALER WITH THIS BEING A KNOWN ISSUE, THEY WANT TO CHARGE ME $128 DOLLAR DIAGNOSTIC FEE IN WHICH I DO NOT HAVE. I HAVE ASKED BOTH MY MECHANIC AND A RADIO INSTALLER AND THEY BOTH HAVE SAID THAT THE MILEAGE FLASHING IS A CONCERN ALONG WITH THE RADIO BLACKENED OUT. THAT ONE PROBLEM COULD LEAD TO ANOTHER. POSSIBLE CAUSE IS THE CONTROL MODULE FOR THE ENTIRE CAR, WHICH COULD LEAD TO DOOR LOCKS GOING HAYWIRE, THE WIPERS GOING ON AND OFF, ETC. MY CAR WAS STATIONARY WHEN YHE RADIO WENT OUT AND THE MILEAGE FLASHING. RADIO USUALLY GOES OUT FOR ABOUT 10 MINS AND COMES BACK ON. BUT NOT THIS TIME.

I HAD MY 2013 DODGE DART FOR 3 YEARS AND FOR A YEAR AND A HALF I'VE HAD PROBLEMS WITH TIRES TO THE POINT WHERE THEY POPPED WHILE DRIVING, BRAND NEW TIRES, USED TIRES IT DIDN'T MATTER. I SPENT SO MUCH MONEY ON JUST TIRES. TO TOP IT OFF I CAN'T GET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OFF BECAUSE OF THE BCM AND A LEAK SOMEWHERE. I WENT THROUGH ALL THE PROCEDURE I BROUGHT A NEW GAS CAP, I BROUGHT A NEW SENSOR, I CHECKED THE WIRES NO HOLES AND NOTHING HAS WORKED. I STILL HAVE TWO CODES ON MY VEHICLE STILL AFTER SPENDING A LOT OF MONEY TO GET IT OFF

MY CAR IS CURRENTLY DRIVABLE HOWEVER I RECENTLY FOUND OUT THAT I NEED THE OIL PRESSURE MONITOR REPLACED ALONG WITH THE WIRING IN THE STEERING SYSTEM DUE TO OIL DAMAGE FROM THE OIL PRESSURE MONITOR BEING BROKEN. THE RADIO AND REAR VIEW CAMERA ALSO NEED TO BE REPLACED. THESE ARE TOO MANY ISSUES FOR A FAIRLY NEW VEHICLE. APPARENTLY THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS CHANGES COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS VEHICLE BUT I'M CONTINUOUSLY BEING TOLD THAT THERE ARE NO RECALLS DESPITE ONGOING ISSUES WITH THE VEHICLE THAT HAVE TO DEAL WITH MANUFACTURING ISSUES. THE RADIO STARTED MALFUNCTIONING OVER A YEAR AGO. THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS/OIL PRESSURE SWITCH ISSUES HAVE ONLY BEEN HAPPENING APPROXIMATELY 2 MONTHS. THE REAR VIEW MIRROR STOPPED WORKING TODAY. THE CAR HAS ALSO HAS ISSUES STALL NO, NOT STARTING, AND CUTTING OFF WHILE THE CAR IS STOPPED FOR ABOUT A YEAR NOW.

THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY AT ANY TIME. I HAVE OWNED SEVERAL CARS AND THIS HAS NEVER, EVER HAPPENED BEFORE!! I CALLED MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP AND INFORMED THEM OF MY ISSUE. THE SERVICE DEPT. ATTENDANT TOLD ME TO HURRY IN SO THEY COULD LOOK AT IT. I LEFT WORK EARLY FOR THEM TO TELL ME THAT, YES THERE IS AN ISSUE. HE THEN STATED THAT I WOULD NEED TO WAIT A WEEK TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT FOR MY CAR TO BE SEEN. I TOOK IT BACK TO MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP LAST NIGHT AND DID AN EARLY DROP OFF, SINCE MY APPOINTMENT WAS FOR APRIL 10TH. I CALLED AT 1:00 SINCE I HADN'T HEARD ANYTHING FROM THE DEALERSHIP. MIGUEL THEN STATED THAT THEY HADN'T HAD AN OPPORTUNITY TO LOOK AT MY CAR! I ASKED WHAT THE POINT WAS FOR ME TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT AND TAKE IT IN EARLY IF MY VEHICLE WAS NOT GOING TO BE "LOOKED" AT? HE PROCEEDED TO TELL ME THEY AREN'T ABLE TO LOOK AT MY CAR UNTIL THE CARS AHEAD OF MINE WERE FIXED. WHY MAKE AN APPOINTMENT? HE THEN CALLED ME TWO HOURS LATER AND STATED THAT I WOULD NEED TO PAY $400 FOR THE SENSOR MODULE TO BE REPLACED. HONESTLY, SINCE SO MANY PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE EXACT SAME ISSUE MAYBE DODGE SHOULD HAVE A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT AGAINST THEM TO FIX THIS SAFETY ISSUE. I AM A SINGLE MOTHER OF 3 TEENAGERS. IT IS DIFFICULT TO KEEP UP FINANCIALLY WHEN ALL OF THESE PROBLEMS ARE OCCURING IN A RELATIVELY NEW CAR!!! IN JANUARY I HAD TO PAY THE DEALERSHIP $500 FOR THE DASH MODULE TO BE REPLACED! I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE IN DECEMBER OF 2014 AND IT SEEMS LIKE I HAVE HAD ONE PROBLEM AFTER ANOTHER, THE BATTERY, THE MAIN MODULE, THE KEY FOB, THE SEATBELT SYSTEM, TO NAME A FEW. I AM VERY UNHAPPY WITH THIS VEHICLE AND WOULD REALLY CAUTION THOSE THAT WANT TO BUY A DODGE DART. AFTERALL, IT CAN'T BE THAT GREAT, THEIR OWN COMPANY DOESN'T STAND BEHIND AN ESSENTIAL PART OF THE VEHICLE. I GUESS IT'S ABOUT THE MONEY, NOT THE PEOPLE LIVES OR SAFETY.

I HAVE BEEN HAVING ONGOING PROBLEMS WITH MY 2013 DART SXT SINCE ABOUT 5 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASE. ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS THAT HAPPENED WAS THE PASSENGER DOOR HANDLE COMING OFF - MORE THAN ONCE - AND HAVING TO BE FIXED. I BELIEVE THIS OCCURRED THREE TIMES. EACH TIME IT WAS "FIXED" AND THEN THE HANDLE WOULD COME OFF AGAIN. THE LAST TIME THE HANDLE CAME OFF, I WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY SO NOW I JUST HAVE A PASSENGER DOOR WITH NO HANDLE UNTIL I CAN AFFORD TO GET THAT FIXED. AS FAR AS THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS I HAVE HAD: THE DASH DISPLAY GOES COMPLETELY DARK AND RESETS ITSELF WHEN I AM DRIVING - ESPECIALLY IF THE WEATHER CHANGES; MY TRACTION CONTROL AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS COME ON RANDOMLY; MY HEAT/AC TURNS ON OR UP WITHOUT ANYONE TOUCHING IT (AT RANDOM) AND I'VE FREQUENTLY HAD PROBLEMS WITH TRYING TO GET THE VEHICLE TO START WHEN IT IS COLD OUTSIDE. MY REMOTE START STOPPED WORKING OVER A YEAR AGO, BUT BECAUSE I FIRST HAD MY ELECTRIC WORKED ON AT FRANK FLETCHER DODGE, AND HAD TO TAKE IT BACK A SECOND TIME BECAUSE THE PROBLEMS WEREN'T FIXED, I STOPPED TRYING. ANY OTHER PLACE I'VE TAKEN MY CAR ALWAYS SUGGESTS I GO BACK TO THE PLACE WHERE THE ELECTRICAL WORK STARTED BUT I DO NOT WANT TO DO THAT BECAUSE IT SEEMS LIKE PROBLEMS GET WORSE EVERY TIME I HAVE TAKEN IT TO GET FIXED. MY DASH/CLOCK RESETS AT COMPLETE RANDOM. I HAVE BEEN DRIVING AND HIT POT HOLES ON THE STREET AND BUMPS ON THE HIGHWAY THAT MADE THE WHOLE SYSTEM RESET WHILE I WAS STILL DRIVING. EVEN THIS MONDAY, I STARTED MY CAR AT THE END OF MY WORKDAY ONLY TO FIND THAT MY CLOCK AND AUDIO SETTINGS WERE RESET AGAIN. I WAS TRYING TO KEEP TRACK OF THE SERVICE RECORDS FROM FRANK FLETCHER DODGE AND OTHERS BUT MAY HAVE LOST SOME FROM ALL OF THE TIMES I HAVE HAD TO CALL THEM IN THE PAST FEW YEARS. I HAVE BEEN EXPECTING SOME SORT OF RECALL OR BUY BACK DUE TO THE ALL OF THE COMPLAINTS THAT HAVE BEEN FILED, BUT NO LUCK.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE, MY CAR CAUGHT FIRE. I NOTICED MY BATTERY LIGHT COME ON ABOUT 1 MILE FROM MY EXIT AND LESS THAN A MINUTE LATER FLUID SPRAYED ONTO MY WINDSHIELD FROM UNDER MY HOOD. I IMMEDIATELY PULLED OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE INTERSTATE AND AS SOON AS I STOPPED, SMOKE STARTED POURING OUT FROM UNDER MY HOOD. I WALKED AWAY FROM THE CAR AND CALLED 911 AT THAT POINT. DURING THE 911 CALL THERE WAS ONLY SMOKE COMING OUT FROM THE ENGINE BAY AREA. RIGHT NEAR THE END OF THE CALL I STARTED TO SEE PLASTIC THAT WAS ON FIRE DRIPPING BELOW THE CAR ONTO THE GRASS. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT ARRIVED LESS THAN 5 MINUTES LATER AND THE ENTIRE ENGINE BAY WAS IN FLAMES, 10-20 FEET HIGH. THE FIRE MELTED ALL THE PLASTICS AND MOST OF THE METAL OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME AND ENGINE. EVEN THE STEEL HOOD WAS MELTED AWAY AND GONE. MY CAR HAD A LONG HISTORY OF ELECTRICAL ISSUES DATING BACK A LITTLE OVER A YEAR FROM THE TIME OF THE FIRE. DURING THAT TIME, THE ELECTRICAL ISSUES ENCOUNTERED INCLUDED THE DASH BECOMING COMPLETELY UNRESPONSIVE AND NO ELECTRONICS WORKING, THE DASH SCREEN REBOOTING WHILE DRIVING, THE CAR CUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING, THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER NOT WORKING, AND MORE. DURING THE TRIPS TO THE DEALERSHIP, THEY REPLACED THE PCM, BCM (THREE TIMES), AND THE BATTERY. AT ONE POINT, CHRYSLER ENGINEERING WAS INVOLVED AND THEY WERE UNABLE TO DETERMINE WHAT WAS WRONG AND SAID THE CAR LOOKED LIKE IT WAS STRUCK BY LIGHTNING. ENOUGH PARTS WERE FINALLY REPLACED TO FIX THE CAR, TEMPORARILY, BEFORE MORE ISSUES. A COUPLE MONTHS BEFORE THE FIRE I TRIED TO GET CHRYSLER TO BUY THE CAR BACK BECAUSE OF THE ELECTRICAL ISSUES BUT IT WAS DENIED. AFTER THE FIRE, CHRYSLER AND KEFFER BOTH DENIED ANY FAULT ON THEIR PART. YET, I HAVE A THIRD PARTY FIRE REPORT SHOWING THE FIRE WAS ELECTRICAL AND STARTED IN THE AREA OF THE BCM, PCM AND BATTERY. ALL THE PRIOR FAULTED PARTS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WIPERS FAILED TO TURN OFF, AND THE AUTOMATIC START FUNCTION FAILED TO WORK BECAUSE THE TURN SIGNALS AND HORN ACTIVATED WHEN ATTEMPTING TO USE THE FOB. THE DEALER (EASTGATE CHRYSLER JEEP DODGE RAM, 500 SHADELAND AVE, INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46219, (317) 352-9361) STATED THAT FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC TESTING WAS REQUIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 85,000.

THE DASH INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WENT OUT ON MY VEHICLE. I WAS DRIVING OUT OF THE PARKING LOT, NO WARNING JUST WENT BLACK. THE SPEEDOMETER, TACH, GAS GAUGE, ENGINE LITE, TIRE PRESSURE OIL INDICATOR NOTHING WORKS. I FEEL THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. THE QUOTE FOR REPAIR IS 1500.00

MANUFACTURE RECALL NUMBER R36 NHTSA RECALL NUMBER 15V-800 RECALL INCOMPLETE

THE BATTERY HAS TO BE REPLACED EVERY YEAR. THE BRAKES ARE HARD AND HAS A VACUUM LEAK NOISE . THE RADIO, CD, BLUETOOTH DOES NOT WORK. THE CRUISE CONTROL DOES NOT WORK ALL THE TIME AND WHEN IT DOES IT WILL STICK ON. THE BUTTONS ON THE STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT WORK ALL THE TIME. THE FRONT 12V DC DOES NOT WORK. DODGE WILL NOT FIX IT BECAUSE THE WARRANTY IS GONE, BUT THESE PROBLEMS HAVE BEEN GOING ON SINCE I BOUGHT IT IN 2012. IS THERE SOME WAY I CAN GET DODGE TO FIX THESE PROBLEMS WITHOUT HAVING TO PAY. THERE IS A LOT OF DODGE DART OWNERS WITH THE SAME PROBLEMS AND DODGE WON'T RECALL OR FIX THE PROBLEMS.

THIS CAR HAS GONE THROUGH CYLINDERS, SPARK PLUGS, 3 BATTERIES INCLUDING THE FACTORY ONE, THROTTLE CONTROL COMPUTER ALL IN LESS THAN 50K MILES. NEVER GETS MORE THAN 10K MILES BEFORE THERE IS ANOTHER ISSUE, QUITE POSSIBLE THE WORST VEHICLE I HAVE EVER PURCHASED AND THERE'S NO DOUBT IN MY MIND AFTER READING FORUM AFTER FORUM OF THE EXACT SAME ISSUES EXPERIENCED BY HUNDREDS IF NOT THOUSANDS OF OTHER OWNERS AND DEALER RESPONSES THAT THERE WAS GOOD REASON TO DISCONTINUE THE PRODUCTION OF THIS MODEL AND THE MODEL YEARS THEREAFTER. UNFORTUNATELY, WE ARE ALL STUCK WITH PAYMENTS ON CARS THAT PUT US AT SIGNIFICANT SAFETY RISK BECAUSE OF FREQUENT AND RANDOM STALL OUTS, INCLUDING ONE THAT HAPPENED TO MYSELF AT HIGHWAY SPEED, AND ANOTHER ON A DARK DESOLATE COUNTRY ROAD, AND FCA WON'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT OTHER THAN OFFER A 5% DISCOUNT ON A BRAND NEW VEHICLE, FOR WHICH COMPARABLE SIZE AND PRICE NO LONGER EXISTS WITHIN THE BRAND. THIS CAR IS THE DEFINITION OF A LEMON, WE BOUGHT IT CERTIFIED USED FROM DODGE AFTER THE CAR HAD A SINGLE OWNER AND WITH NEITHER THE DEALERSHIP NOR THE BRAND OFFERING ANY SORT OF SIGNIFICANT ASSISTANCE IN REMEDYING THIS PRODUCT DEFECT OTHER THAN REPAIRS WITHIN WARRANTY THAT KEEP US ON THE ROAD FOR ANOTHER MONTH BEFORE THE NEXT BREAKDOWN, WE ARE FORCED TO PAY FOR AND DRIVE A VEHICLE THAT PUTS OUR FAMILY AT RISK EVEN MORE THAN IN GENERAL. UNBELIEVABLE.

HAVE HAD TO REPLACE BATTERY TWICE IN FOUR YEARS AND NOW NONE OF THE ELECTRONICS ARE WORKING IN THE INTERIOR OF MY CAR. IT WAS BOUGHT BRAND WITH NO OTHER OWNER! THIS IS VERY COSTLY AND UNFAIR TO BE A NEW VEHICLE.

THE CAR IS TURNED OFF A TICKING SOUND CONTINUES GO OFF WITH THE BACK LIGHTS FLASHING NO KEYS IN CAR FIRE DEPARTMENT CALLED TO VERY A SAFE TOW AND MY CAR SITS THERE UNTIL THE NEXT DAY WON'T START WINDOWS DOWN AND IT'S A HAZARD TO TOW

INTERMITTENT BATTERY LIGHT COMING ON AND OFF. I AM ON BATTERY NUMBER THREE AND MY SECOND ALTERNATOR AND NOBODY CAN TELL ME WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT. AS I WAS DRIVING, THE BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON, THEN THE SERVICE ABS, THEN THE AC WENT OFF, AND THEN THE SERVICE POWER STEERING CAME ON. THIS CAUSED ME TO LOSE MY POWER STEERING WHILE TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY. I HAVE HAD MULTIPLE DIAGNOSTICS, ALL STATING THAT THE BATTERY WAS TESTING FINE, ALONG WITH THE ALTERNATOR AND STARTER. AFTER INSTALLING A NEW BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR, BATTERY LIGHT STILL INTERMITTENTLY COMES ON. WHEN THE LIGHT IS ON, THE ALTERNATOR IS READING AROUND 6V AND WHEN IT IS OFF, IT IS READING BETWEEN 13-14V. WHENEVER THE LIGHT COMES ON, THERE IS THE SOUND OF A RELAY OR SOMETHING HAPPENING. NOT SURE WHAT ELSE TO DO. THE VEHICLE IS 4 YEARS OLD AND I AM SCARED TO DRIVE IT ANYWHERE OR HAVE MY CHILDREN IN IT. I HAVE LOOKED ONLINE AND NUMEROUS PEOPLE ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT THE INTERMITTENT BATTERY LIGHT AND ISSUES ASSOCIATED, SO I DO NOT THINK THAT THERE IS WIRING DAMAGE TO EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THESE VEHICLES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BATTERY WARNING INDICATOR INTERMITTENTLY ILLUMINATED WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO HALL CHRYSLER LOCATED ON VIRGINIA BEACH BLVD IN VIRGINIA BEACH, VA WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED, BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND THE FAILURE RECURRED. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, THE BATTERY WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED, THE AIR CONDITIONER STOPPED FUNCTIONING, AND THE ABS AND POWER STEERING WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT COASTED THE VEHICLE INTO A SHOPPING CENTER WHERE IT STALLED. THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO RESTART THE VEHICLE, BUT IT FAILED TO START. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN A RECALL. NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE WAS PROVIDED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 33,680.

"ENGAGE PARKING BRAKE TO PREVENT ROLLING" ALERT COMES ON AFTER ABOUT 10-15 MINUTES OF DRIVING AND COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE ALERT SUBSEQUENTLY COMES ON EVERY TIME THE CAR STOPS AFTER THIS INITIAL PHASE. ON OCCASIONAL, WHEN THE CAR COMES TO A COMPLETE STOP AND IS PUT INTO "PARK" AND THE ALERT COMES ON, IT WILL NOT SHIFT INTO ANY OTHER GEAR. TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE THE CAR MUST BE TURNED OFF AND ALLOWED TO SIT FOR AT LEAST 10-15 SECONDS, RESTARTED, AND WILL THEN ALLOW YOU TO SHIFT TO ANOTHER GEAR. THE ALERT WILL THEN AGAIN COME ON WHENEVER THE CAR IS BROUGHT TO A COMPLETE STOP.

THERE WAS ALREADY A RECALL ON MY VEHICLE. THEN I HAVE HAD TWO BRAND NEW STARTERS PUT INTO MY CAR AT THE CHRYSLER DEALERSHIP AND BOTH TIMES THE STARTERS WERE BURNED TO A CRISP IN LESS THAN 48 HOURS. NOW I'M HAVING TRANSMISSION ISSUES AND NO ONE KNOWS WHAT'S GOING ON

A FEW THINGS HAS BEEN OCCURRING REGARDING MY CAR. THE FIRST THING IS MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS COME ON SEVERAL TIMES AND WHEN I GOT IT CHECKED, THE CAR WOULDN'T START RIGHT AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE DEALERSHIP WAS FINALLY ABLE TO GET THE CAR STARTED, HOWEVER, THEY REPORTED NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE CAR. THE SECOND THING AND MOST SCARIEST IS MY BRAKES. MY BRAKES ARE TOTALLY MESSED UP AS THEY CONSTANTLY LOCK AND IT'S HARD TO PRESS ON THE BREAKS. THEREFORE I DO NOT DRIVE LONG DISTANCES BECAUSE I AM AFRAID I WON'T BE ABLE TO STOP IN TIME. I'VE TAKEN MY CAR TO GET DIAGNOSED AND THEY TOLD ME THE MY BRAKES AND ROTARS ARE SEVERELY DAMAGED AND INFACT IT WON'T PASS THE SAFETY CHECK IN THE STATE OF NY.

CAR SHUTS DOWN WHILE DRIVING - BATTERY LIGHT FLASHES AND I AM UNABLE TO ACCEL. NO POWER WHAT-SO-EVER. THIS HAS HAPPENED 4 TIMES TWICE AT 45 MPH AND TWICE AT 70 MPH. BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE. * CAR STEREO/SCREEN POWERS DOWN WHILE DRIVING AND RESETS * ALL LIGHTS IN CAR GO OUT FOR A SHORT TIME AND COME BACK ON * RUSHING WATER SOUND WHILE ACCEL. * CAR GETS UP TO 4,000RPM'S TO GO FROM ZERO TO 30MPH * ISSUE WITH BREAK DELAYS * KNOCKING SOUND FROM FRONT RIGHT SIDE OF CAR

THERE ARE TWO ISSUES THAT I HAVE RETURNED MY VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIRS MULTIPLE TIMES AND PAID SIGNIFICANTLY FOR THE NON-REPAIR. THE FIRST IS THE CENTERSTACK DISPLAY. THE DISPLAY WILL INTERMITTENTLY GO BLANK TYPICALLY FOLLOWING A LEFT HAND TURN. THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN IN TWICE FOR THIS CONDITION AND STILL DISPLAYS THE FAILURE. THE SECOND IS THE TRANSMISSION. BASED ON A FCA RECALL, THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR A TRANSMISSION REFLASH! AT THAT POINT THERE HAD NEVER BEEN AN ISSUE WITH THE TRANSMISSION WHILE DRIVING. SINCE THAT EVENT HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE HAS NEVER PERFORMED AS EXPECTED. THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP ONLY TO LEARN THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSION MODULE SO THAT WAS REPLACED. UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROBLEM IS NOW WORSE. THE VEHICLE SHIFTS SO ROUGH, THAT IT FEELS LIKE THE VEHICLE COULD STOP AT ANYTIME. THIS IS VERY CONCERNING BECAUSE I AM NOT COMFORTABLE THAT I CAN ACCELERATE INTO TRAFFIC WHICH COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FAILED AND BLACKED OUT. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED AND REPLACED THE PANEL. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND WAS NOT REMEDIED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 37,000.

MY CAR HAS STALLED WHILE I AM DRIVING ON PUBLIC ROADS. AFTER TAKING IT INTO THE DEALERSHIP, THEY SAID THERE IS NOTHING THAT THEY COULD DO. IT HAS NOW HAPPENED 4 TIMES. THE FIRST TIME I WAS PULLING OUT OF MY HIGH SCHOOL PARKING LOT GOING ABOUT 10-15 MPH. THE SECOND TIME WAS PULLING OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP SERVICING DEPARTMENT GOING ABOUT 35 MPH. THE THIRD TIME WAS IN MY DRIVEWAY WHILE GOING ABOUT 5 MPH. THE LAST TIME WAS ON A STRAIGHT AWAY GOING ABOUT 45 MPH THE STEERING AND BRAKES LOCKED UP AND I HAD TO FORCIBLY TURN THE STEERING WHEEL TO GET THE CAR TO THE SHOULDER. THE CAR HAS ALSO BEN IN THE SHOP NUMEROUS TIMES DUE TO ISSUES WITH THE TIRE PRESSURE SENSORS, THE CENTRAL COMPUTER, AND THE DISPLAY SCREEN. OVERALL, THE CAR HAS OVER 30 PAGES OF SERVICE DONE ON IT, RANGING FORM 2,600 MILES TO 37,000 MILES. I JUST WAS INFORMED BY THE CHRYSLER RESOLUTION TEAM THAT MY CAR WILL NOT BE BOUGHT BACK OR NO COMPENSATION WILL BE GIVEN. I CANNOT DRIVE THE CAR, BECAUSE IT IS UNSAFE TO BE N THE ROAD FOR MYSELF AND THOSE ON THE ROAD WITH ME. IF THE CAR WERE TO STALL ON THE FREEWAY, I COULD BE KILLED OR SERIOUSLY INJURED.

DASH PANEL AND RADIO LIGHTS FLICKER INTERMITTENTLY. BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED AND PROBLEM CONTINUES. PROBLEM HAS EVOLVED TO HALF DASH LIGHTS NOT WORKING. OBVIOUSLY THIS OCCURS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION. THIS SITUATION HAS BEEN ON GOING.

THE CARS AIRBAG LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON. IT COMES ON AND OFF WITH BUMPS IN THE ROAD. NOW THE CARS SEATBELT AUDIO GOES OFF EVEN THOUGH THE SEAT BELTS ON. THIS HAS BEEN TO THE DEALERSHIP A FEW TIMES AND STILL NOT FIXED.

BLUETOOTH DON'T WORK. $600 TO FIX AT 45,000 MILES. NOW MY PRDN LIGHTS UP ALL RED. WILL CLEAR ONLY WHEN I TURN CAR OFF AND BACK ON. TOOK CAR TO AUTO ZONE AND ITS NOT GIVING ANY CODES

I HAD MY CAR FOR 5 MONTHS BEFORE HAVING ELECTRICAL ISSUES. EVERY LIGHT IN THE DASH CAME ON MY CAR STARTED TO SLOW DOWN ON IT'S OWN UNTIL IT CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP. EVERY GEAR ON THE SHIFTER TURNED RED AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK LEAVING ME WITH NOTHING ELSE TO DO BUT TURN THE CAR OFF. AFTER TURNING IT OFF I TRIED TO TURN THE KEY OVER TO RESTART BUT THE CAR WOULDN'T COME ON AT ALL. AFTER THAT I HAD MY CAR TIRED TO ONE DODGE DEALERSHIP, WHICH IT STAYED FOR 2 WEEKS UNTIL THEY DECIDED THEY DIDN'T KNOW WHAT TO DO SO THEY HAD ME YOU'RE IT TO ANOTHER DODGE DEALERSHIP WHERE IT STAYED 2 MONTHS. AFTER REPLACING THE HARNESS TWICE, THE ABS MODULE TWICE AND THE SHIFTER CABLE THEY TOLD ME IT WAS READY. I PICKED UP MY CAR THURSDAY AND GUESS WHAT TWO DAYS LATER (TODAY TO BE EXACT) IT HAS DONE IT AGAIN. I'M NOT ONLY AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR, I AM DOWN TO NO VEHICLE AGAIN.FYI THIS IS ABOUT $4000 LATER.

TOOK IN 4 RECALL BRAKE BOOSTER ENDED UP WITH HAVING TO REPLACE ENTIRE CLUTCH ASSEMBY TO THE TUNE OF $2300. HAD THE CAR FOR LESS THAN 48 HOURS AND IT COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN COULD NOT CRANK OR PUT HAZZARD LIGHTS ON AND WAS IN RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED BACK TO DEALERSHIP.

I HAVE REPLACED THE HI/LO BEAM HEADLAMPS MULTIPLE TIMES, WHEN I WENT TO CHANGE IT THIS TIME, THE RECEIVER PLUG HOUSING ON THE WIRE HARNESS IS MELTED TO THE POINT THAT IT WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED, UNABLE TO ATTACH THE NEW BULB AND THE OLD BULB WAS NEARLY FUSED DUE TO THE HEAT WHEN IT MELTED, LUCKILY IT DID NOT CATCH ON FIRE

AT TIMES THE CAR WILL NOT START BACK UP UNTIL YOU WAIT ABOUT 10 MINUTES AND EVERYTHING HAS TO BE OFF FOR IT TO DO SO. NEWEST PROBLEM IS IT SUDDENLY SLAMS ON BRAKES WHILE ALREADY STOPPED, THE CONTROL PANEL'S LIGHTS COME ON, IT WON'T GO INTO SECOND GEAR SOMETIMES PROBLEMS WITH THIRD GEAR. IN ORDER TO FIX THIS YOU HAVE TO KEEP TURNING THE CAR OFF AND WAITING ABOUT 7 MINUTES FOR THE COMPUTER TO RESET ITSELF THEN IT'S GOOD UNTIL MAYBE NEXT DAY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IT TOOK NUMEROUS ATTEMPTS TO START THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 28,000.

MY KEY FOB GETS STUCK INSIDE THE IGNITION. I HAVE REPORTED THE ISSUE TO DODGE IN JULY. THEY CLAIMED NOTHING WAS WRONG. WHEN I TOLD THEM I HAD TO KEEP TURNING MY WHEEL TO GET MY KEY TO RELEASE AND MY DAD CAME UP THERE AND LET THEM KNOW HE SAW IT WITH HIS OWN EYES AND WASN'T GOING TO ACCEPT THAT, THEY REEXAMINED THE CAR AND SAID THEY FOUND A BUR IN THE IGNITION BLOCKING THE KEY FROM RELEASING THE KEY. THEY KEPT MY CAR 5 DAYS TO ORDER A NEW IGNITION CYLINDER, SO THEY CLAIM WOULD RESOLVE THE ISSUE. LESS THAN A MONTH, I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. I PHONED THE SERVICE MANAGER, HE TOLD ME TO PUT SHIFT THE CAR GEARS AND IT SHOULD RELEASE THE KEY. IT DID ON 8/13/16. HE SAID IT SOUNDS LIKE THE ELECTRICAL ISN'T RECOGNIZING THE CAR IS IN PARK. BUT I THOUGHT THE NEW IGNITION CYLINDER TOOK CARE OF THE PROBLEM BACK IN JULY I TOLD HIM. HE SAID IT COULD BE A STENOID PROBLEM BUT WON'T KNOW UNTIL I BRING THE CAR BACK. I DON'T HAVE MONEY TO KEEP SPENDING ON CAR RENTAL INSURANCE AND TIME TO KEEP BEING INCONVENIENCED BECAUSE DODGE FAILED TO INSPECT THE ELECTRICAL PART OF THEIR CAR.

THE AIRBAG LIGHT COMES ON ANYTIME THE OUTDOOR TEMPERATURE IS ABOVE AROUND 85 DEGREES. THE DODGE DEALERSHIP SAYS NOTHING IS WRONG, BUT THE LIGHT STILL COMES ON. MY CAR WAS IN THE SHOP MULTIPLE TIMES FOR ISSUES WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED 2-3 TIMES SINCE 2013. INTERIOR LIGHTS SOMETIMES FLICKER. THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM RESETS ITSELF RANDOMLY AND NOW IT CAN'T "FIND" THE MAPS. THEY ARE JUST GONE SOMEHOW. THE SD CARD SLOT WORKS SOMETIMES AND NOT OTHERS, SAME WITH THE BACKUP CAMERA. DODGE HAS BEEN COMPLETELY UNABLE TO FIX THESE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE'S MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL, FAN SPEED, AND TEMPERATURE FLUCTUATED INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT ESSENTIAL SENSORS WERE MISFIRING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 19,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IT TOOK MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS TO START THE VEHICLE. THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURE RECURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE BATTERY AND SENSOR TRANSMISSION RANGE WERE REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE WORSENED, RESULTING IN THE VEHICLE FAILING TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE WIRING HARNESS FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 12,000. ...UPDATED 08/01/16 *BF...UPDATED 08/15/16 *BF THE CONSUMER STATED THE PROBLEM CONSISTED OF THE CONSOLE LIGHTING UP AND THE ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATING. THEN IT ESCALATED TO THE VEHICLE NOT STARTING. THE FAILURE HAPPENED ON AN INTERMITTENT BASIS. THE DEALER REPLACED THE BATTERY AND SENSOR TRANSMISSION RANGE. HOWEVER, THE PROBLEM CONTINUED. THE DEALER INFORMED THE CONSUMER, THE WIRING HARNESS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. UPDATED 08/17/16.*JB THE CONSUMER STATED THE WIRING HARNESS WAS REPLACED AND THE FAILURE WORSENED. THE WIRING HARNESS CONNECTION WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE ENTIRE HARNESS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. UPDATED 12/13/2017*JS

I HAVE TAKEN MY DART TO HORNE MOTORS IN GLOBE, AZ. FOR RECALL NOTICE ON TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE MOUNTING BRACKET, THREE (3) TIMES, THE LAST TIME I WAS TOLD TO TRADE IT IN. IM STILL EXPERIENCING THE "SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL" WHILE GEAR SELECTOR IS IN DRIVE. THE FIRST TIME WAS INSPECTION, SECOND WAS PARTS REPLACE,AND THIRD NOTHING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED A COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER INTERMITTENTLY AND EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT IT NEEDED A NEW BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT OIL WAS ADDED IN THE VEHICLE EVERY WEEK OR EVERY TWO WEEKS; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE OCCURRED TWELVE TIMES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 12,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO EVENTUALLY RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE RECURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE KEY FOB AND THE IGNITION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. IN ADDITION, WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE CONTACT NOTICED A BURNING ODOR COMING FROM THE VEHICLE. UPON INSPECTION, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DASHBOARD AND WIRING HARNESS IN THE GLOVE BOX WERE ON FIRE. THE CONTACT INDEPENDENTLY EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. NO INJURIES WERE SUSTAINED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE WIRING HARNESS, CARPET, AND DASHBOARD NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH AND APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT, THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE BRAKE PEDAL FAILED TO DEPRESS. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO STOP. THE CONTACT APPLIED THE EMERGENCY BRAKE BUT THE VEHICLE VEERED AND CRASHED INTO A GUARDRAIL. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED FACE INJURIES THAT DID NOT REQUIRE MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED FROM THE CRASH SCENE TO A DEALER, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V800000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC); HOWEVER, THE PART NEEDED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 28,000.

GAUGES WILL FREEZE WHILE DRIVING, BUT RESET AFTER 20 MINUTES. HAS HAPPENED ON 4 SEPARATE OCCURENCES. WHILE DRIVING DOWN AN EXPRESSWAY AT 50MPH IN THE CITY, THE CAR LOST BOOST(PRESSURE FROM THE TURBO) CAUSING IT TO LOSE POWER DRAMATICALLY REDUCING SAFETY AND FUEL ECONOMY. THE CAR LOST THE ABILITY TO MERT SPEED LIMIT AND SLOWING DOWN TRAFFIC BEHIND AND THE ABILITY TO GET UP A HILL IN MY AREA. RESEARCH HAS SHOWN COUNTLESS OTHER PEOPLE BEING AFFECTED BY THE P0299 LOW PRESSURE CODE.

"SERVICE TRANSMISSION" ERROR COMES ON THE DASH AND STOPS RUNNING PROPERLY. IF TURNED OFF AFTER ERROR, THE CAR WILL NOT TURN BACK ON AND GIVES AN "AUTO STICK UNAVAILABLE" ERROR AND REQUESTS SERVICE. I'VE HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY ARE UNABLE TO FIND ANY ISSUES.

MY MULTIFUNCTIONING SYSTEM THAT ALLOWS ME TO USE MY WINDOW WIPERS AS WELL AS ALLOWING ME TO MAKE RIGHT OR LEFT TURNS DECIDED TO FALL APART AND NOW I CANT EVEN TURN OFF THE MOTOR FOR MY WINDOW WIPERS WHICH IS BECOMING A HAZARD BECAUSE OF MY WINDOWS BECOMMING DAMAGED IN THE PROCESS.

THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILED AND REQUIRED A 1200 DOLLAR REPAIR. BACKUP CAMERA DOESN'T WORK FOR UNKNOWN REASON. GPS RADIO HAS FAILED AND REQUIRES 1800 REPAIR. PROBLEMS STARTED AT RANDOM. VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED NEW IN 2/14

I HAVE HAD MULTIPLE ISSUES WITH MY CAR SINCE I GOT IT. I HAVE BEEN THROUGH THREE RADIOS, AN ENTIRELY NEW TURBO WAS INSTALLED ONE YEAR AFTER PURCHASING THE CAR. THEN THINGS WERE GOING WELL UNTIL RECENTLY. I HAVE HAD THE CAR IN THE SHOP ABOUT 3 WEEKS IN A ROW. FIRST IT WAS ONE OF MY COILS THAT HAD BECOME INACTIVE. SO WHILE DRIVING IT THE CAR SHAKES AND STUTTERS. WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY I TRY TO HIT THE GAS AND THE CAR STARTS SLOWING DOWN AND SHAKING. SO I HAD TAKEN IT TO ANOTHER SHOP TO LOOK AT IT BECAUSE FOR A NEW CAR IT IS NOT IN MY FINANCES TO BE PUTTING $400 INTO MY CAR EVERY WEEK. HAD TO GET THE PART ORDERED SO I AM CURRENTLY DRIVING MY CAR AROUND WITH ONE COIL INACTIVE. THEN IN THE MIDST OF ALL THIS HAPPENING, ONE WEEK AFTER THE COIL HAD OFFICIALLY WENT INACTIVE, IT WAS BACK IN THE SHOP BECAUSE MY EMERGENCY BRAKE ALL OF A SUDDEN BECAME REALLY LOOSE AND WHEN I WASN'T MOVING THE CAR WOULD ROLL. WHICH MEANS THE EMERGENCY BRAKE WASN'T DOING ITS JOB. SO THAT NIGHT I TOOK IT OVER TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THEM LOOK AT IT YET AGAIN. THEY CALLED ME THE NEXT DAY AND SAID THAT MY LEFT REAR CALIBER HAD SEIZED WHICH IS DESCRIBED TO ME THAT IT WASN'T GRABBING AND RELEASING THE WHEEL LIKE IT SHOULD HAVE WHICH ALSO CAUSED MY BRAKES AND ROTORS TO WEAR SO MUCH THAT THEY HAD TO BE REPLACED. WHICH THIS WAS SOMETHING I COULD NOT JUST LET GO, OR EVEN DRIVE THE CAR WITH, I HAD TO PAY THE DEALERSHIP OVER $400 TO JUST FIX MY CAR SO THAT I COULD DRIVE IT. I CANNOT BELIEVE ALL THE TROUBLE THAT I AM GOING THROUGH FOR A CAR THAT IS NOT EVEN 5 YEARS OLD.

ON 3 SEPARATE OCCASIONS, MY 2013 DODGE DART GT WITH A 2.4 TIGER SHARK ENGINE WITH MULTIAIR HAS SHUT DOWN WHILE THE CAR WAS MOVING ON THE ROAD. THE REASON FOR THIS THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME WAS DUE TO LOW OIL, WHICH WE RECENTLY REALIZED USES AT LEAST 1/2 QUART PER 1,000 MILES. THE DEALER SAYS THIS IS WITHIN NORMAL LIMITS. THEY SAID THAT BEFORE 50,000 MILES IT IS WITHIN NORMAL LIMITS TO BURN 1 QUART FOR EVERY 1000 MILES AND AFTER 50,000 MILES IT IS NORMAL TO BURN 1 QUART FOR EVERY 750 MILES. THIS WAS NEVER DIVULGED TO ME WHEN I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE. IT FIRST DID THIS STARTING AT 35,000 MILES. THE VEHICLE NOW HAS 42,000 MILES. THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANY OIL LIGHT OR ANY OTHER ENGINE LIGHT THAT GOES ON BEFORE THE VEHICLE DIES. IT HAS LEFT ME STRANDED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD IN SOME VERY DANGEROUS SITUATIONS. I NO LONGER FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS CAR AND WHO WOULD WANT TO BUY IT FROM ME? TWO DEALERSHIPS HAVE TOLD ME THAT IT IS NORMAL FOR THE ENGINE ON THIS CAR TO BURN LOTS OF OIL, TO DIE WHILE THE CAR IS MOVING IF THE OIL IS LOW, AND FOR THE OIL LIGHT NOT TO GO ON BECAUSE THE CAR WILL STOP RUNNING BEFORE THE SENSOR IS ACTIVATED. THEY TELL ME THEY HAVE SEEN THIS BEFORE. THE MAJOR PROBLEM IS THE OIL SENSOR NEVER ACTIVATES TO TELL ME THE OIL IS LOW. THEY TELL ME TO CHECK THE OIL LEVEL EVERY TIME I PUT GAS IN THE CAR. I FIND THAT TO BE AN UNACCEPTABLE SOLUTION. THE OIL HAS ALWAYS BEEN CHANGED AT NORMAL INTERVALS. *TR

THE BLUETOOTH/ HANDS FREE SYSTEM STOPPED WORKING SHORTLY AFTER GETTING CAR. THEY WANT OVER $600 TO REPLACE A BAD MODULE! THIS SHOULDN'T HAPPEN. RADIO AND GPS WACKY TOO. THIS NEEDS A RECALL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. ON ONE OCCASION, THE CONTACT STRUCK A POLE, DROVE INTO A DITCH, AND LANDED ON TOP OF AN ELECTRICAL BOX. MAJOR DAMAGE WAS SUSTAINED TO THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE; HOWEVER, THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THE POLICE ARRIVED AT THE SCENE, BUT A REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED INJURIES TO THE RIGHT OF THE HEAD AND THE RIGHT ELBOW, BUT DID NOT REQUIRE MEDICAL ATTENTION. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO BE DRIVEN FROM THE SCENE. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V800000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC) AFTER THE FAILURE OCCURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHEN THE CONTACT STARTED THE VEHICLE, THE GAUGES MADE A TICKING SOUND AND THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS FLICKERED. THE CONTACT WAS TRAPPED IN THE VEHICLE AND HER HUSBAND HAD TO USE A METAL KEY TO UNLOCK THE DOOR FROM THE EXTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE ELECTRICAL FAILURE CONTINUED TO OCCUR INTERMITTENTLY. THE CONTACT MADE AN APPOINTMENT TO HAVE THE VEHICLE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE DEALER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REBUILT BECAUSE THE GAUGE THAT REGULATES THE TEMPERATURE WAS NOT IN THE ENGINE. THE MANUFACTURER REPLACED THE ENGINE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE SHOOK AND PULLED TO THE LEFT WHILE TRAVELING 55 MPH. WHILE TRAVELING 25 MPH THROUGH AN INTERSECTION, THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO STOP THE VEHICLE, BUT THE BRAKES FAILED. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE STRUCK A CURB, WHICH CREATED A GASH IN THE TIRE AND THE RIM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 43,000.

WHEN TIRE PRESSURE IS LOW, DRIVER INFORMATION CENTER INSTRUCTS USER TO "INFLATE TIRES TO 0 (ZERO) PSI" THIS OCCURS ANY TIME ONE OR MORE TIRE LOSES ENOUGH PRESSURE TO TRIGGER THE TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR.

WHEN STARTING TO SLIDE ON ICE A NOTIFICATION FLASHES WHERE YOUR MILEAGE SHOULD SHOW BUT IT DISAPPEARS SO QUICK DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN FOR A FEW SECONDS ALONG WITH ALL ELECTRICAL INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE ( NO SPEEDOMETER NO STEREO NO TOUCH SCREEN NO LIGHTS IN OR OUT) HOWEVER WHILE SLIDING IF YOU LET YOUR FOOT OFF THE BREAK THE ENGINE AND ALL THE LIGHTS SEEM TO REBOOT AND THE CAR GAINS POWER AGAIN. NOT SAFE AND SCARY AS HELL WHEN DRIVING IN A UPSTATE NY SNOW STORM

ATTEMPTING TO PULL OUT INTO TRAFFIC THE VEHICLE DID NOT ACCELERATE AND STALLED WITH THE FRONT QUARTER OF THE VEHICLE IN ONCOMING TRAFFIC. VEHICLE WAS QUICKLY PUT INTO PARK AND REVERSED INTO SAFETY.

I BOUGHT MY CAR ON MAY 6, 2013 AND I HAVE BEEN TAKING MY CAR TO WHITTEN BROTHERS IN ASHLAND VIRGINIA FOR ALL THE SERVICE AND REPAIR WORK. ON JUNE 13, 2013 I HAD A RECALL DONE AND ALL OF THE REPAIRS STARTED.THE AIR BAG WIRING AND HARNESSES REPLACED IN JUNE 2013. THE TURBO HAS BEEN REPLACE 4 TIMES AS OF AUGUST 27, 2015. THE WASTE GATE ACTUATOR HAS BEEN REPLACE 3 TIMES. 08/12/14 THE VACUUM SENSOR SIGNAL REPLACED POWER BRAKE CHECK VALVE AND SADDER AND REPAIRED 2 WIRES GOING TO THE VACUUM SENSOR. TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE ON 09/11/15. ON 06/26/14 THE CRUISE CONTROL SWITCH WAS REPLACED BUT STILL DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY BECAUSE THE CAR IS ALWAYS HAVING A PROBLEM WHICH WILL STOP IT FROM WORKING. ON 06/26/14 THE CONTROL PANEL WAS REPLACED. ON 02/18/15 PCM RADIO WIRING, RIGHT FRONT DOOR AND SUBWOOFER SPEAKERS REPLACED. ON 08/27/15 FRONT STRUTS AND BACK SHOCK ABSORBERS REPLACED. ON 09/01/15 REPLACED BATTERY AND TRANSMISSION LIGHT CAME ON. I HAVE RECENTLY HAD ALL THE UPDATES DONE ON MY CAR WHILE ITS BEEN IN THE SHOP AND NOW I AM TIRED OF BEING TAKEN ADVANTAGE OF BY CHRYSLER. I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO LOSE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TO TRADE OR SELL MY CAR BACK TO A DEALER TO GET OUT OF THIS NIGHTMARE. I WANT MY CAR RECALLED BACK FOR A FULL REFUND BECAUSE OF THE REOCCURRING PROBLEMS I KEEP HAVING. I HAVE SENT A LEMON LAW LETTER TO CHRYSLER ON SEPTEMBER 14, 2014 AND PUT THEM ON NOTICE ABOUT ALL THE PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR AND DEMANDED A BUY BACK WHICH IN TURN THEY GAVE ME AN EXTENDED WARRANTY WHICH HAS COVERED ALL THE REPAIR EXPENSES. I ALSO JUST SETTLED A LAW SUIT WITH CHRYSLER THROUGH THE LAW OFFICES OF KROHN AND MOSS IN CHICAGO THE LAWYER DID NOT PURSUE MY CASE IN COURT DUE TO BEING OUT OF STATE. SO THEREFORE, I ONLY WON $5,000.00 TO COVER THE ATTORNEY FEE OF $3,500.00 LEAVING ME $1,500.00. MY TOTAL PURCHASE PRICE WAS $21,671.00 AND THAT IS WHAT I AM FIGHTING FOR!

WE WERE JUST LEAVING ON A WEEKEND TRIP, STOPPED FOR GAS AND STARTED TO PULL OUT FROM DRIVEWAY WHEN THE BRAKES FAILED AND WE ENDED UP HALFWAY IN THE ROAD. THANKFULLY IT WAS CLEAR AT THE TIME AND THANKFULLY WE WERE 3 BLOCKS FROM HOME. THE BRAKE PEDAL BECAME VERY STIFF AND HAS A WHOOSHING SOUND. I'M SO UPSET WITH THE QUALITY OF THIS CAR. I'VE HAD SEVERAL ISSUES WITH IT SINCE THE DAY I PURCHASED IT AND AFTER MULTIPLE TRIPS TO THE DEALERSHIP NONE OF THE ISSUES HAVE BEEN RESOLVED EXCEPT ONE I FIGURED OUT ON MY OWN. I WILL NOT SUGGEST ANYONE BUY A DART AND EXPECT TO HAVE ALL THESE ISSUES DEALT WITH AT NO COST AS AFTER READING MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS I SEE ITS A COMMON ISSUE

THE CLUSTER THAT HOUSES THE SPEEDOMETER IS WRONG. CURRENTLY THE SPEEDOMETER EVEN READS 20MPH EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS NOT EVEN RUNNING. IT IS HARD TO TELL HOW FAST I AM GOING WITHOUT RELIABLE SPEEDOMETER INFORMATION.

WHEN STARTING TO SLIDE ON ICE THE ANTI LOCK BREAKS KICKED IN BUT THE ENGINE STALLED FOR A SECOND AND ALL OF THE ELECTRONIC DASH WENT OUT. NO SPEEDOMETER NO STEREO NOTHING WAS ON IT SEEMED BUT WHEN I LET OFF THE BRAKES AND ALLOWED THE CAR TO SLIDE AGAIN EVERYTHING CAME BACK ON.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE IDLING, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. FOLLOWING THE FAILURE, THE CHECK ENGINE, SERVICE TRANSMISSION, AND OIL LOW PRESSURE LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE DEALER FACTORY RESET THE VEHICLE AND REPLACED THE HYDROLOGICAL PUMP. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,800.

STARTED MY VEHICLE THIS MORNING AND NOTICE THAT ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT WENT ON AND STARTED FLASHING,WHICH I HAD THE SAME ISSUE ON 6/13/15 AND HAD IT TOW TO THE DEALER AT WHICH THEY TOLD ME IT WAS A BATTERY FAILURE AND IT WAS REPLACED WITH A NEW BATTERY AND NOW WAITING ON A TOW TO TAKE IT BACK TO THE DODGE DEALER.....IM TO SCARE TO TAKE A CHANCE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE CAUSE IT STARTED TO MISSFIRE AND IDLE AND IT SHUT DOWN ON ME.....

THE TURBO CHARGER ON MY 2013 DODGE DART WAS DISCOVERED AS NEEDING TO BE REPLACED AND THE INSTRUMENT GAUGE CONTAINING THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER AND OTHERS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AFTER THEY INTERMITTENTLY WOULD STOP WORKING. THE TURBO IN THE CAR WAS FIXED BUT THE DEALER (WALSER HOPKINS DODGE) FAILED TO ADDRESS THE ISSUE REGARDING THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER UNTIL 12,000 MILES LATER.

MY SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER FINALLY GOT FIXED 12,000 MILES AFTER MY ORIGINAL COMPLAINT REGARDING THIS ISSUE TO THE DEALER. I NEED TO BRING IN VIDEO ON MY CELL PHONE OF THE INCIDENT OCCURRING AND COMPLAIN TO DODGE CORPORATE TO GET THE ISSUE RESOLVED IN A TIMELY MANNER.

I PURCHASED BY VEHICLE APPROXIMATELY TWO YEARS AGO AND THE BATTERY, RATHER SUDDENLY, DIED ON ME TURNING ONTO A BUSY STREET CAUSING THE CAR TO STOP WORKING WITHOUT A ROLLING START. UPON INSPECTION OF THE CAR, A MECHANIC AND FRIEND OF MINE FOUND "SHADY" WORK DONE ON CERTAIN PARTS OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I BELIEVE IT WAS INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTION BOX, WAS FOUND WHAT SEEMED TO BE A FUSE ATTACHED TO A CHUNK OF PLASTIC THAT WAS JUST DANGLING IN THE BOX BY JUST THE WIRE AND THE BOX ITSELF HAD BE HELD CLOSED BY ZIP TIES AFTER SEEMINGLY HAVING BEEN FORCED OPEN DURING A PREVIOUS SERVICE. AFTER THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED, CAR STILL EXHIBITED PROBLEMS WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL REQUIRING ADDITIONAL SERVICE. *TR

THE TURBO CHARGER ON MY 2013 DODGE DART WAS DISCOVERED AS NEEDING TO BE REPLACED AND THE INSTRUMENT GAUGE CONTAINING THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER AND OTHERS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AFTER THEY INTERMITTENTLY WOULD STOP WORKING. THE TURBO IN THE CAR WAS FIXED BUT THE DEALER (WALSER HOPKINS DODGE) FAILED TO ADDRESS THE ISSUE REGARDING THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER UNTIL 12,000 MILES LATER.

I PURCHASED MY 2013 DODGE DART ON AUGUST 9, 2013 FROM FEDERICO CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP IN WOOD RIVER IL. WITHIN 4 MOS ON DECEMBER 11, 2013, I HAD MY CAR IN THE SHOP BECAUSE MY MIDDLE CONSOLE WAS INOP. AFTER CHECKING IT THEY DETERMINED THE CONSOLE NEEDED REPLACING. TWO MONTHS LATER ON FEBRUARY 11, 2014 I HAD MY CAR IN A SECOND TIME FOR MIDDLE CONSOLE. THIS TIME THEY INSTALLED AN INTEGRATED STACK. THEN, 9 MOS LATER ON NOVEMBER 21, 2014 A THIRD TIME I HAD MY CAR IN AGAIN FOR MIDDLE CONSOLE NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. THIS WAS MY FIRST CONTACT TO DODGE ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND WAS ASSIGNED A CUSTOMER CARE MANAGER. I ASKED IF MY CAR WOULD BE CONSIDERED FOR LEMON LAW AND WAS TOLD CHRYSLER WAS INTERSTED IN BUYING MY CAR BACK AND WAS GIVEN A MOPAR WARRANTY IN DEDUCTIBLE OF $100 AND AT TIME CAR HAD OVER 34,000 AND WARRANTY EXPIRES AT 60,000. THEN JUST THIS PAST APRIL 2ND OF 2015 I HAD MY CAR IN SHOP AT CASSENS AND SONS IN EDWARDSVILLE, IL AGAIN BECAUSE MIDDLE CONSOLE WAS NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. THEY DOWNLOADED AN UPDATE PER STAR. I WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR $100 DEDUCTIBLE. I THEN WENT ON A TRIP TO NEW ORLEANS, LA AND WHILE ON MY TRIP THE MIDDLE CONSOLE WAS NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. I CONTACTED CHRYSLER AGAIN WAS ASSIGNED A CASE MANAGER AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY WOULD GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE ISSUE. SO, I TOOK MY CAR IN ON APRIL 29TH THE SOONEST I COULD GET IT IN AND AFTER 8 HOURS AT SERVICE WAS CALLED AND TOLD THAT STAR COULDN'T FIGURE OUT WHY IT WAS HAPPENING AND SINCE THEY COULDN'T DUPLICATE PROBLEM NOT TO REPLACE ANY NEW PARTS. AFTER HEARING THIS NEWS I WAS CALLED AND JOHN CUSTOMER CARE MANAGER TOLD ME THAT CHRYSLER WOULDN'T INIATATE THE LEMON LAW THAT I WOULD TO DO SO.

THE FUSE THAT POWERS THE REAR BACKUP CAMERA FAILED TWICE WITHIN ONE YEAR. THIS PARTICULAR FUSE IS BURIED SOMEWHERE IN THE DASH AND REQUIRES TREMENDOUS TIME AND EFFORT TO CHANGE. LUCKILY I WAS UNDER WARRANTY BOTH TIMES BUT NO MORE. I AM CONCERNED IT WILL CONTINUE TO HAPPEN OUTSIDE THE WARRANTY.

THE HORN FAILS TO HONK QUICKLY AND RELIABLY WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL HORN SWITCH IS PRESSED. TO EXPLAIN WHAT THIS IS LIKE, WHEN YOU WANT TO "DOUBLE TAP" THE HORN TO SIGNIFY TO A FRIEND IN A PARKING LOT, OR AS OFTEN HAPPENS WHEN I'M DRIVING TO SIGNAL TO ANOTHER DRIVER A "DOUBLE QUICK HONK" OF CONCERN. IF THE HORN SOUNDS, ITS EITHER A SINGLE SHORT BLAST OR EXTRA LONG BLAST. THE CAUSE OF THIS, IS THAT THE HORN SWITCH GOES TO ONE DBUS CONTROLLER THAT MUST CYCLE THROUGH THE INPUTS, ONCE THIS FIRST CONTROLLER SEES THE HORN SWITCH ACTIVE *IT* THEN SENDS A SIGNAL ON TO ANOTHER CONTROL MODULE, THIS ONE TOO OPERATES ON A DATABUS/SCAN TYPE SYSTEM, AND SO HAS TO CYCLE THROUGH ITS INPUTS UNTIL IT HAPPENS UPON THE "HORN SWITCH ACTIVE" SIGNAL, AND THEN THE SECOND MODULE ACTIVATES THE HORN RELAY TO SEND CURRENT TO THE HORN. BECAUSE BOTH DATABUSS SCANS ARE SO SLOW, IT EITHER MISSES THE HORN PRESS INITIALLY, OR WHEN IT PICKS UP ON THE HORN SWITCH PRESS, IT FAILS TO SEE THE SWITCH HAS BEEN RELEASED FOR UNTIL THE 1ST MODULE HAS CYCLED BACK TO THE INPUT, .. AND AGAIN THE SAME HAPPENS WITH THE 2ND MODULE. IN THREE CASES NOW, ITS CAUSED ROAD RAGE, WHEN THE OTHER DRIVER THOUGH I WAS "LAYING ON" THE HORN, WHEN ALL I ATTEMPTED WAS A DOUBLE TAP, BECAUSE THEY WERE ENCROACHING ON MY LANE AS I WAS PASSING AND WANTED TO MAKE SURE THEY DIDN'T HIT ME. THE HORN IS AN INSTRUMENT FOR WARNING, AND ITS OBVIOUS WHEN SOMEONE ATTEMPTS TO PISS SOMEONE ELSE OFF BY HOLDING DOWN ON THE HORN SWITCH .. WHERE A DOUBLE TAP IS USUALLY TAKEN AS A CAUTIONARY ALERT, AND FOR THE HORN NOT TO FUNCTION RELIABLY EVERY TIME AND WITH THE SPEED THAT A HUMAN CAN PRESS THE HORN SWITCH, IS AN ABSOLUTE FAILURE ON DODGE'S PART TO HAVE A SAFETY DEVICE OPERATING PROPERLY. THIS HAPPENS EVERY DAY, ALL THE TIME, AND I'M TOLD BY OTHERS, THAT ITS LIKE THIS NOW ACROSS ALL OF DODGE'S FLEET, THIS IS A DESIGN FLAW AND SHOULD BE REPAIRED!

BATTERY IS FAULTY WHEN IT IS SLIGHTLY CHARGED THE CAR WILL TURN ON AND SEND THE GAUGES FLIPPING OVER TO THE RIGHT AND BACK TO THE LEFT AGAIN WHILE THE ENGINE REEVES. WHEN THE BATTERY IS TOTALLY DEAD THE CAR WONT TURN ON AT ALL. WHEN THE BATTERY IS ALMOST DEAD THE DOORS WILL NOT UNLOCK WITHOUT USING THE KEY AND THEN THAT SETS OFF THE ALARM. *TR

THIS IS THE SECOND COMPLAINT I HAVE FILED ON THIS PROBLEM. THE FIRST TIME I TOOK IT TO DEALER THEY SAID IT WAS FIXED AND THAT OBVIOUSLY WAS NOT THE CASE. WENT TO START MY CAR AND IT WOULD NOT START OR TURN OVER. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS IT STARTED BUT THE CEL WAS ILLUMINATED AND THE LIGHTS ON THE GEAR SHIFT WERE RED. JUST AS LAST TIME THE DEALER HAD NO ANSWERS FOR ME. I STARTED DOING MY ON RESEARCH AND BLOGGING AND SPOKE TO MORE THAN TWO OTHER PEOPLE WHO HAS SAME ISSUE. THEY BOTH ADVISED IT WAS THE TCM. I CALLED AND TOLD MY SERVICE ADVISOR AND HE TOLD ME THAT WAS NOT CORRECT. I THEN PROVIDED HIM WITH AN INVOICE NUMBER AND DEALERSHIP NAME WHERE ONE OF THE PEOPLE TOLD ME THEIR CAR WAS FIXED. WHEN I CALLED BACK LATER THE ADVISOR TOLD ME I WAS CORRECT AND THEY WOULD BE REPLACING THE TCM. *TR

I STOPPED AND TURNED VEHICLE OFF. IT WOULD NOT START OR EVEN TURN OVER. TRIED WITH REMOTE AND KEY BOTH. EVENTUALLY STARTED BUT CEL WAS ILLUMINATED. THE LIGHTS ON THE GEARSHIFT WERE ALSO ILLUMINATED RED. TOOK THE DEALER AND THEY COULD NOT REPLICATE PROBLEM. WHEN I PICKED IT UP THEY DROVE IT ONTO SHOP FLOOR AND TURNED IT OFF. IT WOULD NOT START AGAIN. THEY SAID THERE WAS A LOSS OF COMMUNICATION WITH TCM. ADVISED THEY DID PROXY ALIGNMENT (ALIGNED ALL MODULES INLINE WITH EACH OTHER). I KNEW THIS WAS NOT GOING TO WORK AND HAD MORE ISSUES WITH VEHICLE NOT STARTING. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED AND ALL WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THERE WAS A GLITCH WITH THE SOFTWARE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE TWO FRONT TIRE SENSORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 150.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. AFTER ACTIVATING THE DEFROSTER FOR THE FRONT WINDSHIELD, THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED. IN ADDITION, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH FRACTURED AND WAS UNABLE TO START THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO DEALER BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH, THE ENGINE RPMS DECREASED AND THE VEHICLE STARTED TO JERK VIOLENTLY. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED WHENEVER ANY ELECTRICAL COMPONENT WAS ACTIVATED. ALSO, THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED INTERMITTENTLY AND THE ENGINE OVERHEATED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 16,500.

TURNED ON CAR IN THE MORNING, NOTICED THE BACK LIGHTING ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WAS REALLY DIM, I CHECKED THE DIMMING SWITCH TO SEE IF I MOVED IT BY UNKNOWINGLY. I TRIED ADJUSTING THE SWITCHES BUT NOTHING WORKED. I TURNED OFF THE CAR AND RESTARTED IT AND NO CHANGE THEY WERE STILL VERY DIM. I WENT AHEAD AND DROVE TO MY DESTINATION. ON THE TRIP THERE THE LIGHTS FOR THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER/PANEL AS WELL AS THE BACK LIGHTING FOR MY 8.4" SCREEN AND A/C AND RADIO LIGHTS TURNED OFF FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS, AND THEN EVERYTHING TURNED BACK ON, BUT STILL VERY DIM. I GOT TO MY DESTINATION TURNED OFF CAR, GOT OUT AND LEFT THE CAR FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES, CAME BACK AND STARTED IT AND EVERYTHING WAS NORMAL. SINCE THEN, IT HAS HAPPENED EVERYDAY THIS WEEK SO FAR. I PLAN ON CONTACTING DODGE/CHRYSLER TO SEE IF THEY CAN ASSIST BEFORE I GO TO THE DEALER. *TR

VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN THEN WHEN COMING TO AN INTERSECTION THE VEHICLE DOWNSHIFTED HARD. UPON GOING THROUGH THE INTERSECTION THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THEN BECAME INOPERABLE. VEHICLE WOULD NOT START OR EVEN CRANK. VEHICLE HAS BEEN IN THE DEALER FOR MANY ELECTRICAL AND TRANSMISSION ISSUES AND WE GOT REALLY LUCKY THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT IN THE INTERSECTION. *TR

THE ISSUE I AM CONTINUING TO HAVE IS DURING ACCELERATION, USUALLY ONTO THE INTERSTATE, I WILL LOSE ABOUT 2/3 OF MY ENGINE POWER DURING ACCELERATION. IF THE CRUISE CONTROL IS ON, NOT ACTIVATED, IT WILL TURN ITSELF OFF AND NOT TURN BACK ON. THE POWER LOSS IS SIGNIFICANT. THE ONLY OPTION TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT, OR MAKING OTHER DRIVERS ANGRY BECAUSE I HAVE SUDDENLY SLOWED ON AN ON RAMP, IS TO PULL TO THE SHOULDER AND TURN OFF THE VEHICLE. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO RESET THIS ISSUE. IT HAS HAPPENED 6 TIMES SINCE THE FIRST OCCURRENCE IN FEBRUARY. AFTER THE 5TH TIME THE ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON AND I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER. TO MY UNDERSTANDING THEY JUST RESET THE LIGHT. IT HAS HAPPENED AGAIN ONCE SINCE. I AM ALSO NOW DEALING WITH TURBO SURGING DURING ACCELERATION AND OVER REVVING AT STOP LIGHTS AND WHILE SHIFTING. THE RPM'S ARE NOT DROPPING AS I SHIFT UNTIL I LET OUT THE CLUTCH. I HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER 3 TIMES, TWICE OVER NIGHT. THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND HAVE SENT ME ON MY WAY. I CALLED DODGE AND THEY OPENED A CASE OCT 10, AGAIN CANNOT DUPLICATE, CASE CLOSED. I AM CONCERNED THAT THIS ISSUE WILL CAUSE ME TO BE REAR ENDED EITHER ON THE ENTRANCE RAMP OR ON THE SHOULDER WHILE TURNING MY CAR OFF AND BACK ON. SYMPTOMS ARE ALSO SIMILAR TO ANOTHER COMPLAINT NHTSA ID 10616062. *TR

I'M BACK AFTER SUBMITTING ODI NUMBER 10619184. THIS TIME THE CAR STALLED WHILE APPROACHING A TURN. LUCKILY WE WERE AGAIN GOING SLOW AND WAS ABLE TO COMPLETE THE TURN. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT BACK UP AND WE WERE ABLE TO TAKE OFF AGAIN. THE DEALER FOUND ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE. UNFORTUNATELY THIS ISN'T THE ONLY CONCERN I HAVE ABOUT THIS VEHICLE. SINCE I'VE OWNED THE CAR THE ENGINE NEVER DID SOUND QUITE RIGHT WHILE DRIVING. THE ENGINE SEEMS TO "TUMBLE" OR MAKE A SOUND AS IF IT WANTED TO STALL BUT NEVER HAS. SINCE THE DEALER FOUND NO CODES (OR DTC'S) AND THEY COULDN'T REPRODUCE THE PROBLEM THEY SENT ME HOME WITH THE VEHICLE. MY CONCERN HERE IS THAT THIS VEHICLE IS EXPERIENCING MULTIPLE, MAJOR SAFETY ISSUES AND SADLY DODGE, CHRYSLER, OR FIAT WILL NOT STAND BEHIND THEIR VEHICLE. I DECIDED TO VOICE MY OPINION WITH THE USE OF CAR MAGNET, DECALS WITHOUT USING NAMES OR LOCATIONS AND THE DEALER DECIDED THEY WOULD NOT LIKE MY BUSINESS ANY LONGER. SO MUCH FOR FREE SPEECH. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS WOULD OPERATE INTERMITTENTLY. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT EVENTUALLY THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FAILED TO ILLUMINATE AT ALL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50.

WHEN WE WENT TO OPEN THE TRUNK ON OUR DODGE DART RALLYE (2013), THE TRUNK WOULD NOT OPEN. JUST A LITTLE BEFORE THAT IT WAS WORKING JUST FINE WITH NO PROBLEMS. WE HAVE TRIED TO RESET THE VEHICLE BUT THAT DOES NOT WORK, NEITHER DOES CHECKING FUSES. WE BOUGHT THE CAR WITH AROUND 6000 MILES ON IT (WARRANTY STILL UNDER AFFECT) BUT NOW AFTER WE BOUGHT IT THE WARRANTY IS GONE. WE WOULD LIKE TO HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT THIS ASAP. *TR

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INSIDE CAR SHUTS OFF AND TURNS BACK ON REPEATEDLY, EVEN IF I AM ONLY GOING 2 MILES DOWN THE ROAD. THE FUEL AND ENGINE TIE TOGETHER AS ONE; IMMEDIATELY AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE THE EXHAUST LETS OUT A VERY STRONG ODOR THAT CONTINUE'S FOR THE ENTIRE DURATION OF ANY TRIP. THEN WHEN ACCELERATING USING AUTOMATIC DRIVE OR EVEN THE DRY CLUTCH THE EXHAUST MAKES A LOUD RATTLING NOISE AS IT SWITCHES FROM GEAR TO GEAR. ALSO, DURING DRIVING THE ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION FEELS LIKE IT IS SLIPPING AND HAS HESITATION WHEN YOU ACCELERATE AFTER STOPPING COMPLETELY. *JS

THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CUTS OUT SEVERAL TIMES WHEN DRIVING. AT NIGHT IT IS BAD BECAUSE ALL THE INSIDE LIGHT GO OUT AND YOU CAN TELL YOUR SPEED OR ANYTHING UNTIL IT TURNS BACK ON. THE ENGINE AND FUEL ARE ONE ISSUE; AFTER STARTING IT THE EXHAUST HAS A BAD ODOR AND STAYS DURING THE ENTIRE TRAVEL UNTIL IT IS TURNED OFF. THE ENGINE ALSO HESITATES AFTER COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. *JS

I HAVE HAD SEVERAL ISSUES WITH THIS CAR. FOR STARTERS WHEN DRIVING IT WILL ALL OF A SUDDEN STOP GOING FOR NO REASON. THE CAR DIDN'T DIE IT SIMPLY DOESN'T GO. THE RPM'S STOPPED WORKING ON ONE OCCASION AND THE HEAD LIGHT BLEW OUT ALL IN THE SAME NIGHT. DEALER SAID THERE WAS NO CONNECTION, SO I HAD TO REPLACE THE HEAD LIGHT FOR $100. THEY ADVISED THE GROUND WIRE WAS LOSE SO THEY TIGHTENED IT. I HAD MY TIRE BLOW OUT FOR NO REASON JUST DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND IT BLEW. NOW ON OCCASIONS MY AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS AREN'T WORKING. AND STILL WONT GO WHEN GIVING IT GAS. IT SOUNDS LIKE THERE IS SOME KIND OF ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL VEHICLE. I LOVE MY CAR WOULD WANT A NEW ONE. I DO NOT FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS VEHICLE AT THE TIME UNTIL IT IS FIXED. THERE ARE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE AND MY WARRANTY IS ALMOST UP WITH PROBLEMS REPEATING. I DON'T KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO. I JUST WISH DODGE WOULD FIX WHATEVER PROBLEMS THERE ARE. *TR

DURING RAINING OR HIGH HUMIDITY CONDITIONS MY LEFT TURN SIGNAL ALERTS ME THAT IT DOESN'T WORK. ALSO I HAVE HAD THE CRUISE CONTROL SWITCH FIXED MULTIPLE TIMES AND IT STILL INTERMITTENTLY DOES NOT TURN ON. *JS

THE CAR STARTED VIBRATING AND SHAKING UNCONTROLLABLY AND THEN BEGAN TO SMOKE. I HAD TO STOP IT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD AND GET IT TOWED. SINCE WE'VE PURCHASED THE CAR ABOUT 8 MONTHS AGO, WE'VE BEEN IN THE DEALERSHIP MONTHLY FOR ONE ISSUE OR ANOTHER (ELECTRICAL, PIECES FALLING APART, TIRE ISSUES, SPLASH GUARD ISSUES, ETC). IT IS A HORRIBLE CAR. NO ONE CARES WHEN YOU CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICE. *TR

THE CAR STARTED VIBRATING AND SHAKING UNCONTROLLABLY AND THEN BEGAN TO SMOKE. I HAD TO STOP IT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD AND GET IT TOWED. SINCE WE'VE PURCHASED THE CAR ABOUT 8 MONTHS AGO, WE'VE BEEN IN THE DEALERSHIP MONTHLY FOR ONE ISSUE OR ANOTHER (ELECTRICAL, PIECES FALLING APART, TIRE ISSUES, SPLASH GUARD ISSUES, ETC). IT IS A HORRIBLE CAR. NO ONE CARES WHEN YOU CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICE. *TR

SINCE 2/5/14, MY "CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT" AS WELL AS AUDIBLE ALERT, DISPLAY SPORADICALLY WHEN DRIVING. THIS LIGHT AND ALERT USUALLY COME ON WHEN STOPPED, FOR INSTANCE AT STOPLIGHT OR STOP SIGN, AND THEN WHEN STARTING TO TAKE OFF OR ACCELERATE. I'M CONCERNED THERE MAY BE ELECTRICAL ISSUES, A SHORT IN WIRING, OR BATTERY OR CHARGING PROBLEMS. I'M GOING TO HAVE IT SERVICED THIS WEEK... *TR

AFTER TURNING CAR ON, BATTERY LIGHT DISPLAYS ON DASH AND DASH LIGHT IS DIM, RADIO IS OFF, A/C OFF, AND SIGNAL LIGHTS DO NOT WORK. I HAVE TO WAIT A PERIOD OF 10-30 MINS SO THESE COMPONENTS TURN BACK ON. THIS IS USUALLY HAPPENING IN EVERY OTHER DAY AND ALSO WHEN CAR IS EXPOSED TO HOT WEATHER. *TR

WHEN I START MY CAR THE GPS/RADIO SCREEN DOES NOT TURN ON, THE BACK UP CAMERA, BLINKERS, LIGHTS AND WINDOWS, A/C, RADIO WILL NOT WORK, SOMETIMES FOR A MATTER OF SECONDS OR MY ENTIRE DRIVE. IT IS UNSAFE TO TURN, HOT IN THE CAR ON 90 DEGREE WEATHER AND JUST ANNOYING, I HAVE CALLED THE DEALERSHIP TO ASSESS THIS ISSUE, IT HAS BEEN GOING ON AND OFF FOR THE LAST 3 WEEKS, APPROX. ONE WEEK AFTER I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE. THE 1ST AND SECOND GEARS ALSO DO NOT WORK WELL, I HAVE A VERY DIFFICULT TIME GETTING IT IN 1ST GEAR AND IT WILL STALL OUT. THE SECOND GEAR IS JERKY. THE ACCELERATION HAS DECREASED OVER THE SHORT TIME I HAVE BEEN DRIVING THIS VEHICLE. OVERALL NOT THE BEST VEHICLE I HAVE DRIVEN. I FEEL VERY UNSAFE IN IT BUT HAVE A LARGE LOAN TO PAY ON IT. *TR

CHAPMANSWRECKER WRECKER SVC IN NASHVILLE , TN 37210 TOWED A 2013 DODGE DART RENT-A-CAR THAT THE WHOLE FRONT END BURNT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE AND BATTERY WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUTMENT PANEL AND THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER AND IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE VEHICLE NEEDED A SOFTWARE UPDATE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 2,731 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 5,000. *TR