2012 Kia Optima Transmission Problems

While driving in traffic, your vehicle suddenly lost power and began jerking without warning, forcing you to pull over to avoid a collision. A dealership confirmed the problem is related to an active safety recall (23V6552) but refused to repair it because your vehicle has over 150,000 miles. The repair would involve addressing the affected powertrain component covered under the recall to restore normal engine operation and vehicle control.

Your 2012 Kia Optima Hybrid experienced a serious engine failure with thick smoke coming from the engine compartment and the engine stalling while you were driving — a significant fire hazard. You took it to a Kia dealership for a recalled engine repair, but the dealership refused to perform the free recall work, charged you $199 for a diagnostic inspection, and threatened storage fees to pressure you into leaving with the still-broken vehicle. The dealership released your unsafe car back to you without completing the required recall repair, and your vehicle remains unrepaired at home.

Your gear shifter moved into park, but your dashboard still displayed a message telling you to shift into park. You also experienced delays when shifting between gears. Multiple dealers were unable to reproduce the problem during testing, though one dealer suggested the transmission might need replacement. Based on your research, you believe the issue is related to a transmission control module (TCM) failure.

The contact owns a 2012 Kia Optima. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle hesitated while depressing the accelerator pedal. The check engine warning light eventually became illuminated, and the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The mechanic retrieved a fault code for the engine variable valve timing solenoid. The contact was informed that the engine variable valve timing solenoid needed to be replaced. The contact called a dealer and was informed that there were no recalls on the vehicle for the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.

Power train and engine failure and causing my Kia to catch on fire at 11:30 coming back home from work. I was Driving home and smell smoke and car was shaking and when I stopped at the highway to open and look fire was on while driving and I had to call 911 and stop the fire. I had some fire extinguisher in the car I stopped the fire and towed the car and I replaced engine and powered train For over $9000 between repairs and labor and transmission and engine

The contact owns a 2012 Kia Optima. The contact stated while driving at 55 MPH, he heard an abnormal grinding sound coming from the engine. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact was able to continue driving. The contact stated that the failure had been reoccurring while driving. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the transmission had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that they could not assist as the warranty had expired. The failure mileage was approximately 45,000.

The shifter cable came off during the car was on motion in my driveway..and unable to put it in PARK. My driveway has quite inclining uphill.. imagine if the car would roll back .. or simply the fact it worries me if that could happen somewhere away i would totally get stranded.. upon google i was able to confirm that KIA using the cheap parts and this happened to others also.. My boyfriend was able open gear console cover and snapped the cable ring back ...KIA should replace this part ASAP. BTW .. this was the second time it happened within a year

2012 Kia Optima Engine oil lights flickers on slowing .. I have checked the oil and the Filter they look excellent and to the correct level.

My engine failed. Dick Withams here in Waterloo, IA was paid by Kia to replace engine for free due to my warranty. Dick Withams rushed the process and allowed me back on the road with no coolant plug( which was detected immediately) I returned the car and Dick Withams attached a plug so my coolant wouldn't spill over on the ground. Every time I pressed my brakes THERE WAS A HORRIBLE SOUND LIKE MY DRIVE AXIAL WAS NOT PUT TOGETHER WHEN Putting the engine back. Kia is allowing Mechanics to fix these recalls of MAJOR SAFETY ISSUES FOR myself and my family. I then returned vehicle to Cedar Falls, IA Dick Withams to fix issue Friday morning. They have yet to communicate anything with me. Now I'm just without a vehicle even though it's covered under warranty. It should be against the law for the car dealership to return a recalled engine without driving the car to see if they rushed the service and failed to put vehicle back together CORRECTLY.

Every time i stop at a light my car starts to shake and vibrate. Now the check engine is on and my car is making weird noises, going at higher speeds

My wife had been complaining that while driving 2011 optima hybrid at highway speeds the car would suddenly lose power and slow to 30 or 40 mph while the pedal is floored. Took it to the dealer who said we needed a new battery which did not solve the problem. 2nd time came with a warning on the dash to check hybrid system, back at the dealer they said it appears to be some special fuse in the trunk ($300)…problem sill persist however this time the car completely shut down on the road, dash was lit up like a Christmas tree. Had to get it towed. Now dealer says its the HPCU and that’s going to run almost $6000. Dealer was willing to install a used one i got on EBay, they charged $1300 for the install they tell me the problem still exists.

THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE ABOVE 45 MPH. THERE WAS WHITE SMOKE BEGINNING TO COME FROM UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF THE VEHICLE AND THE EXHAUST. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IT HAD GOTTEN TO THE POINT WHERE THEY WOULD HAVE TO ADD OIL TO THEIR VEHICLE EVERY 100 MILES. THE CHECK OIL WARNING LIGHT WOULD ILLUMINATE INTERMITTENTLY. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER (VALLEY HI KIA 14644 VALLEY CENTER DR, VICTORVILLE, CA 92395; 877-305-9865). THE VEHICLE HAD TOO HIGH LEVELS OF THE OIL. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A CERTIFIED MECHANIC WHO CHANGED THE OIL AND CHANGED THE CRANK SENSOR. THE CONTACT WAS TOLD THAT ROD BARRING MATERIAL WAS FOUND IN THEIR OIL. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED AND THE FAILURES PERSIST TODAY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 129,000.

THA CAR SHUT DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD WOULD NOT START ALL LIGHTS CAME ON AND COULD NOT STEER GAVE THE CAR GAS ON GAS PEDAL NOR COULD I BRAKE TO GET OUT OF THE ROAD. HAS BEEN TOWED TO DEMONTROND KIA TO SEE IF UNDER WARRANTY FOR REPAIRS ALMOST LOST MY LIFE ON HIGHWAY

KIA OPTIMA EX 2012 WITH 57000 MILES TRANSMISSION IS STUCK ON R (REVERSE) AND IT DOESN'T RELEASE EVEN WITH THE SHIFT LOCK RELEASE ENGAGED. THE BACKUP CAMERA IS ON, BRAKE IS VERY STIFF, THE CAR IGNITION CAN BE ON/OFF BUT DON'T STARTS THE ENGINE. DASH AND SHIFTER INDICATOR SHOWS R AND IT DOES NOT CHANGE TO ANY OTHER STATUS. VEHICLE IS INOPERABLE.

WHILE DRIVING MY 2012 KIA OPTIMA HYBRID ON THE FARTHEST LEFT LANE OF THE FREEWAY, A WARNING MESSAGE POPPED UP ON MY DASH BOARD THAT WAS SOMETHING SIMILAR TO "SAFTLEY PULL OVER AND DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE." I BEGAN TO CHANGE LANES TO BE ABLE TO EXIT THE FREEWAY AND AS I WAS APPROACHING THE EDITS STOP LIGHT THE MOVING HEHICLE SEEMED TO LACK MUCH POWER. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE THE CAR ROLL FAR ENOUGH ON MOMENTUM TO GET ME OUT OF THE WAY OF A VERY BUSY ROAD. IT WAS A MIRACLE THAT THE CAR ROLLED TO THE SPOT IT DID BECAUSE THAT HAPPENED TO BE THE ONLY PLACE THE SHOULDER COULD FIT MY CAR. I HAD IT SENT TO KIA DEALERSHIP AND IT TOOK THEM ALMOST AN ENTIRE WEEK TO FINALLY HAVE AN IDEA OF WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE. ENGINE SEIZED AS THE MAJOR PROBLEM AND OFFERED TO REPLACE IT FOR ABOVE $8000! THE CAR ISN'T EVEN WORTH THAT MUCH! COME TO REALIZE THERE WAS A RECALL ON MY ENGINE SO I AM NOW WAITING UNTIL KIA TECH SUPPORT REACHES OUT TO MY MECHANIC FOR THE APPROVAL OR DENIAL. I BOUGHT THIS USED CAR ABOUT 30 DAYS FROM TODAY'S DATE WITH 80K MILES

CAR WILL NOT GET OUT OF IMMOBILIZATION PHASE, WITH EITHER KEY FOB WILL NOT UNLOCK TO USE PUSH TO START. ISSUE IS WASTE GATE ACTIVATOR FAILURE OR NEEDS ADJUSTMENT.

VEHICLE SHUT DOWN WITH LOW POWER AT 50 MPH WITH ALL LIGHTS WORKING. COMPUTER HAS CAR SHUT DOWN AND CAN NOT START.

APRIL 2018 WAS DRIVING HEARD LOUD NOSE FROM ENGINE, HYBRID SYSTEM CAME ON , HYBRID SYSTEM WARNING TURN OFF ENGINE. ENGINE LOCKED UP.TOWED HOME.PULLED OIL PAN. BRASS BEARINGS BOTTOM OF PAN.CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON ROD BEARNIG WERE IN PIECES. HAD ENGINE REBUILT. MAY 2018. FILLED 2 COMPLAINTS THEN. ONLY 73,000 MILES.COMPANY'S GETTING AWAY FOR INSUFFICIENT ENGINES. TRIED TO SELL CAR. BUT NOT GOING TO GIVE AWAY.I DON'T WANT IT. I THINK I DESERVE COMPENSATION.

TRANSMISSION HAS A HARD PULL WHEN IT DOWN SHIFTS FROM THIRD GEAR TO SECOND GEAR AND A HARDER PULL ON FIRST GEAR THIS IS A AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. IN REGULAR GEARS GOING IN DRIVE WOULD ACTUALLY DO FINE I NOTICED A WEEK LATER WHEN I WAS OUT DRIVING FOR ABOUT AN HOUR THAT THE CAR WOULD NOT GO PAST SECOND GEAR SO I PULLED OFF THE ROAD AND HAD MY CAR TOWED. THE VEHICLE HAS NEVER HAD ANY DASHBOARD LIGHTS COME ON CURRENTLY MY CAR IS IN LIMP MODE AND WILL ONLY GO IN REVERSE TAKES A FEW SECONDS TO INITIATE AN ENGAGE TO GO INTO FIRST GEAR.DEALERSHIP DOES NOT REALLY WANT TO LOOK AT THE VEHICLE IF IT DOES NOT HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CODE I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS TRANSMISSION I HAVE 168,000 MILES. IT SHOULD GIVE YOU SOME TYPE OF WARNING THAT SOMETHING IS GOING ON WITH YOUR TRANSMISSION BUT IT DOES NOT EVEN LIGHT UP ON YOUR DASHBOARD IF YOU GO TO PRESS THE PEDAL TO ACCELERATE IT DOES NOT WANT TO ACCELERATE I JUST RECENTLY HAD MY CATALYTIC CONVERTER CHANGED OUT SO I KNOW IT IS NOT THAT THE GEARS ON THE TRANSMISSION WILL NOT GO PAST SECOND GEAR NOW IT IS IN WHAT THEY CONSIDER LIMP MODE OR DEFAULT MODE SOMEONE REALLY NEEDS TO LOOK AT THE TRANSMISSION ON ALL THE 2012 KIA OPTIMAS I HAVE BEEN SEEING A LOT OF ISSUES WITH THESE CARS THE LIGHTS THAT ARE CONSIDERED AS THE LOW BEAMS ARE NOT VERY BRIGHT EITHER I JUST RECENTLY HAD THOSE CHANGED AND NEW ONES PUT IN THEY DO NOT GIVE YOU ENOUGH LIGHT IF YOU'RE DRIVING AT NIGHT THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD

MY GEAR SHIFT IS STUCK IN DRIVE I CAN NOT PUT IT IN PARK IF I TURN MY CAR OFF IT WON'T CRANK BACK UP PLEASE HELP I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO AN THIS IS MY EVERYDAY CAR

TRANSMISSION ISSUES: BETWEEN 2ND AND 3RD GEAR. WOULD LAG THEN JERK THE CAR WITH SOME TORQUE ONCE IT CAUGHT 3RD GEAR. HAD TO GET 2 REPLACEMENT TRANSMISSIONS BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE. ALSO ENGINE SEIZER ISSUE, MY ENGINE STARTED TO SEIZE WHEN I WAS GOING 45 MILES AN HOUR WITH ALOT OF TRAFFIC BEHIND ME. THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN IT STARTED MAKING LOUD THUNKING NOICES THEN A VERY LOUD GRINDING NOISE AND THEN I WAS STUCK ON A ROAD NOT BEING ABLE TO GET ABOVE 22 MILES AND HOUR, THERE WAS NO SHOULDER TO PULL OVER. AND I WAS STUCK TRYING TO GO UPHILL AND ALL THESE CARS BEHIND ME. I ENDED UP HAVING TO STOP THE CAR AND LEAVE IT IN THE MIDDLE OF A 2 LANE ROAD ON A HILL WITH THE EMERGANCY BREAK ON. KIA KNEW IT WAS ANOTHER SEIZED ENGINE WHICH I THOUGHT IT WAS MY TRANSMISSION AGAIN WHICH I HAD BROUGHT IN BECAUSE THIS 3RD TRANSMISSION WAS HAVING THE SKILLING ISSUES AROUND 20-25MILES AND HOUR, BUT AFTER THEY KNEW I WASNT GOING TO BUY ANOTHER KIA AGAIN THEY WOULDNT FIX MY TRANS THAT SHOULD PROBABLY BE RECALLED ANYWAYS. BUT THEY THOUGHT IT WAS ANOTHER OPTIMA SEIZED ENGINE, AND EVEN THOUGH ALL OPTIMAS ARE RECALLED FOR THIS EXACT SAME ISSUE, THEY SAY THAT MINE ISNT COVERED BECASUE ITS A HYBRID AND HAS A MOTOR IN THE CAR ALSO SO ITS DIFFERENT SET UP. BUT THERES ARE OTHERS ONLINE WITH THIS KIA OPTIMA 2011-2013 HYBRID ENGINE SEIZER JUST LIKE ALL THE OTHER OPTIMAS. AND I THINK THE HYBRIDS SHOULD BE INCLUDED IN THE RECALL. AS WE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. THIS WAS A VERY DANGEROUS ISSUE

THERE IS METAL IN THE BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE, THERE IS NO SLUDGE BUILD UP AND THE ENGINE HAS LESS THAN 90,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

I STOPPED THE CAR AND TRIED TO PUT THE SHIFT LEVER TO PARK, THE CAR INDICATED THAT IT WAS STILL IN DRIVE. THE CAR WAS STUCK IN DRIVE EVEN THOUGH THE SHIFT LEVER WAS IN THE PARK POSITION. I TURNED THE VEHICLE OFF. I TRIED TO RESTART BUT IT WOULD NOT BECAUSE THE CAR THOUGHT THE TRANSMISSION WAS IN DRIVE. I COULD NOT MOVE THE SHIFT LEVER FROM PARK WITHOUT USE THE SHIFT UNLOCK. UPON INVESTIGATION I FOUND THAT THE TRANSMISSION SHIFT CABLE CAME DETACHED FROM THE SHIFTER LEVER. IT APPEARS THAT A PLASTIC RETAINER DISINTEGRATED.

THE CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE AT A SAFE TIME FRAME. FOR EXAMPLE IF I NEED TO CROSS A BUSY STREET. I HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL THERE ARE ABSOLUTELY NO CARS COMING BECAUSE WHEN I ACCELERATE MY ENGINE REVS BUT DOESN'T MOVE. I'VE BEEN ALMOST REAR ENDED SEVERAL TIMES BECAUSE THE TRANSMISSION WILL NOT GO INTO GEAR. THE ENGINE WILL HIT 8 OR 9 THOUSAND RPM THEN THE TRANSMISSION DECIDES TO CATCH AND THROW MY HEAD INTO THE SEAT. WHICH IF THERE IS A CAR IN FRONT OF ME I HAVE TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO REAR END THEM BECAUSE OF THE SUDDEN ACCELERATION.

I WAS ON THE INTERSTATE TRAVELING AT APPROX 70 MPH CHANGED LANES AND WHEN I WENT TO ACCELERATE THE VEHICLE STALLED LOST POWER I COASTED TO THE BREAKDOWN LANE AND ATTEMPTED TO START THE VEHICLE. IT WOULD NOT START. I HAD AAA TOW IT TO A HARDINGS GARAGE IN FAIRFIELD. THE TECHNICIAN SAID THIS MORNING THE VEHICLE STARTED BUT STALLED AS SOON AS HE TRIED TO MOVE IT. HE TOLD ME THAT THERE WAS A KIA RECALL 17V224000 THAT APPLIED TO THE ENGINE SO I GOT AAA TO TOW THE VEHICLE TO CHARLIES KIA IN AUGUSTA, ME. THEY TELL ME THAT THERE IS NO RECALL ON MY VIN. WHY WOULD I HAVE THE SAME STALLING AS INDICATED IN THE RECALL IF MY VIN DOES NOT APPLY???

CAR ENGINE DIED AND LOST POWER ON HIGHWAY PUTTING ME AT RISK OF GETTING INTO AN ACCIDENT. I HAD TO PULL OVER ON SHOULDER QUICKLY AND THEN BLEW OUT A TIRE A I RAN OVER A UNAVOIDABLE OBJECT ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.

FAILURE DATE: 06/25/2019 MY 2012 KIA OPTIMA ENGINE SHUT OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING AND LUCKILY I DIDNT GET INTO ACCIDENT AND WAS ABLE PULL OFF THE ROAD TO WAIT FOR A TOW TRUCK. THIS IS VERY SCARY AND DANGEROUS. I HAD IT TOWED TO AN AUTO REPAIR GARAGE THEY CHANGED OUT THE STARTED AND CHANGED OUT THE BATTERY IT JUST MADE A CLICKING SOUND BUT WOULDN'T START. I STARTED READING ON LINE THAT THIS EXACT SITUATION HAS HAPPENED TO OTHER KIA OPTIMA VEHICLES. MY VEHICLE HAS 99189 MILES SO IT FALLS WITHIN THE POWER TRAIN WARRANTY OF 100,000 MILES

KIA HAS NOW SETTLED THEIR CLASS ACTION SUIT FOR ALL THE OTHER VEHICLES, YET THE HYBRIDS ARE STILL BEING LEFT OUT OF ANY RECALLS. THERE IS PLENTY OF EVIDENCE IN THE COMPLAINTS HERE THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG. I SUNK $7000 THAT I DIDN'T HAVE TO SPARE INTO GETTING A NEW ENGINE PUT IN THIS CAR. ONLY TO HAVE THE TRANSMISSION BLOW RIGHT AFTER I GOT THE CAR BACK FROM KIA AFTER WAITING 6 MONTHS FOR AN ENGINE. THE TRANSMISSION COST ANOTHER $5000, AND IT TOOK THEM THREE TRANSMISSIONS TO INSTALL A NON-FAULTY TRANSMISSION. I ALMOST LOST MY JOB BECAUSE I COULDN'T RELIABLY GET TO WORK ON TIME, IF AT ALL. KIA THEMSELVES HAVE SAID THAT THE ENGINES WEREN'T MANUFACTURED CORRECTLY AND THAT LABOR BEING DONE IN KIA DEALERSHIPS WASN'T BEING DONE CORRECTLY. HYBRID ENGINES SHOULD ABSOLUTELY NOT BE BLOWING RODS AT 60000 MILES, OR 80000 MILES, AND NOT EVEN 100000 MILES. KIA IS KNOWINGLY DELAYING ANY SORT OF RECALL AND FORCING PEOPLE TO GO INTO FURTHER DEBT OR LOSE JOBS.

I HAVE A 2012 KIA OPTIMA HYBRID AT 80,XXX, AND HAVE ALWAYS KEPT UP WITH THE SCHEDULED SERVICES/MAINTENANCE. I BARELY DRIVE MY CAR NOWADAYS, AND JUST RIDE MY BICYCLE TO TAKE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION THAT IS 1-MILE AWAY. MY WIFE AND I WERE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, GOING 65MPH, 47-MILES INTO OUR DRIVE, OUR CAR STARTED JERKING. WE HAVE ABOUT 3-4 MILES LEFT TO OUR DESTINATION. WHEN YOU PRESSED ON THE GAS, IT SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS JUST ACCELERATING AND NOT SHIFTING TO THE NEXT GEAR. THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS OR NOTIFICATION AS TO WHY THAT WAS HAPPENING. WE EXITED FROM THE FREEWAY AND STOPPED AT A LOCAL PLAZA TO TRY AND RESET THE CAR, AND GAVE THE CAR ABOUT 20-MINS BEFORE DRIVING AGAIN. WHEN WE TRIED DRIVING ABOUT THE LAST 10-MINS, EVEN AT 20MPH, IT WAS STILL JERKING AND STILL SOUNDED LIKE IT WASN'T SHIFTING TO THE NEXT GEAR, AND STILL NO WARNING LIGHTS. WE ENDED UP TOWING OUR CAR BACK HOME BECAUSE WE DIDN'T WANT TO RISK GETTING STUCK ON THE FREEWAY AT 1-2AM. UNFORTUNATELY, I AM THE 2ND OWNER, HOWEVER, I DO HAVE EXTENDED WARRANTY, SO I HOPE THIS ISSUE IS NOT THAT SERIOUS. I WILL DEFINITELY CONTACT KIA AND RAISE THIS CONCERN BECAUSE IT IS A SAFETY HAZARD.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 40 MPH, THE VEHICLE STARTED HESITATING AND THE REAR BRAKE LIGHTS WERE ILLUMINATED WITHOUT THE BRAKE PEDAL BEING DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO LOCAL DEALER SHAWNEE MISSION KIA (7951 SHAWNEE MISSION PKWY, MERRIAM, KS 66202, (913) 384-9100) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SHIFT SOLENOID NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 107,408.

ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WHILE DRIVING. WHEN STARTING CAR, IT'S NOT STARTING AS IT SHOULD AND STAKING LUGGING AND SLUGGISH WHILE DRIVING. COUNTRY ROAD DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH..

WHILE DRIVING ON MANY CITY STREETS 0-45MPH AND INTERSTATE 0-70MPH SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND GOES OFF PERIODICALLY. WHEN THE LIGHT IS ON, CAR SHAKES AND SPUTTERS AS TRANSMISSION GEARS SHIFT (NOT ENGNE). APPEARS TO BE SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE TRANSMISSION. CAUGHT THE LIGHT ON AND READ CODE P0711. ACCORDING TO TSB 043 [REV ] /2/2013 THIS IS AN INTERNAL PROBLEM AND MUST BE CORRECTED BY A LICENSED MECHANIC.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 KIA OPTIMA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE WENT IN AND OUT OF GEAR AND FINALLY LOST ALL ACCELERATION. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT HAD TO PULL OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO A COMPLETE STOP AND THEN RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT DROVE THE VEHICLE TO WORK AND BACK HOME WITHOUT ANY ISSUES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED CASE NUMBER: K32Q8186. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,900.

MY KIA OPTIMA ABS SYSTEM WILL RANDOMLY MAKE A CRUNCH SOUND WHEN I STEP ON THE BRAKES, AND I LOSE SOME ENGINE POWER IMMEDIATELY AFTER TO THE POINT THAT MY CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE PAST 40 MPH. IT HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES ON BUSY HIGHWAYS WHERE I HAVE TO FEAR CAUSING A MAJOR ACCIDENT. KIA DEALER CANNOT FIGURE OUT THE ISSUE, THEY HAD MY CAR FOR A DAY AND REPAIRED THE STEERING COLUMN AND SENT ME HOME, ONLY FOR THE PROBLEM TO OCCUR AGAIN THE FOLLOWING WEEK.

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AND MY 2012 KIA OPTIMA LOST POWER WITH NO WARNING SIGNS. I HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC ONLY TO FIND THAT THE MOTOR WAS LOCKED UP. DID I MENTION THAT I HAD JUST BOUGHT THE CAR FROM BOYLES AUTO SALES IN JASPER, ALABAMA ON FEBRUARY 3, 2017 AND THE CAR QUIT ON FEBRUARY 26, 2017 NOT EVEN 30 DAYS SINCE THE PURCHASE OF MY CAR. UNFORTUNELY, SINCE WE PAID CASH FOR THE CAR THE DEALER BASICLY TOLD US HE WOULDN'T DO ANYTHING. SO NOW I AM WITHOUT A VEHICLE AND HAVING TO FIND MORE MONEY TO REPLACE THE MOTOR IN THE CAR THAT THIS DEALER SOLD ME. AFTER FURTHER RESEARCH I HAVE LEARNED THAT KIA HAS PROBLEMS WITH THE KIA OPTIMA'S FOR SEVERAL YEARS AND THE 2012 THAT I PURCHASED IS INCLUDED. THE MECHANIC TOLD US THAT ALL THE COMPONENTS OF THE CAR THAT SHOULD HAVE OIL, WATER, ANY TYPE OF FLUID WAS FINE BUT THAT SOMETHING INTERNAL HAD STOPPED OPERATING AND CAUSED THE MOTOR TO LOCK UP.

WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH ON A HIGHWAY, THE ENGINE SHUT DOWN WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD BUT WOULD NOT RESTART. IT WAS TOWED TO A MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED A CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURE. THE SHOP MAINTAINED THAT THE ENGINE SEIZED DUE TO APPARENT IMPROPER OIL CHANGE. THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED LESS THAN 30 DAYS PRIOR TO THE EVENT. THE VEHICLE WAS SUBSEQUENTLY TOWED TO A KIA DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY, TOO, WERE UNABLE TO MANUALLY TURN THE ENGINE OVER. KIA SERVICE CENTER REMOVED THE VALVE COVER AND FOUND HEAVY SLUDGE BUILT UP IN ENGINE CAUSING IT TO FAIL AND LOCK UP. KIA MOTORS OF AMERICA DENIED CLAIM DUE TO LACK OF PROPER MAINTENANCE. HOWEVER, HYUNDAI SONATA ENGINES WERE RECALLED DUE TO METALLIC DEBRIS IN ENGINE WHICH RESTRICTED OIL FLOW AND PRESENTED THE SAME MANIFESTATIONS OF ENGINE SLUDGE. KIA OPTIMA SEDANS WERE BUILT USING ENGINES MANUFACTURED AT THE PLANT CITED IN THE HYUNDAI RECALL.

CAR WILL JERK HARD WHEN CHANGING GEARS. IT HAPPENS WHILE GOING IN SPEEDS BELOW 45 MPH. THE CAR WILL JERK REALLY HARD WHILE DRIVING AND THE RPMS WILL JUMP FROM 2-3 STRAIGHT UP TO 6. IT HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES IN THE LAST WEEK. I AM TAKING IT TO THE KIA DEALER TO SEE IF THEY CAN LOCATE AND FIX THE PROBLEM. BASED ON WHAT I HAVE READ HERE, THERE DOESN'T APPEAR TO BE A FIX. I AM REALLY CONCERNED IT WILL ACCELERATE AND CAUSE ME TO HAVE AN ACCIDENT.

JERKING AND LOSS OF ACCELERATION WHEN DRIVING AND WHEN SHIFTING IN PARKING/REVERSE. WHEN SHIFTING IN REVERSE IT MAKES A JERK AND MAKE A THUD. SAME THING IN DRIVE BUT A LITTLE MORE HARSH. JERKING ALSO JUST WHEN SHIFTING TO DRIVE AFTER STARTING THE CAR. EVEN WHEN I DRIVE IT WOULD GIVE A JERK A FEW TIMES WHEN SWITCHING GEARS, AND ALSO WHEN I BRAKE TO SLOW DOWN IT DOES IT. I ALSO REMEMBER THE CAR SHAKING ONE TIME WHEN I TURNED IT ON. IT ALSO LOST ACCELERATION WHILE DRIVING TO WORK IN A 45 MPG AREA. HAD TO PULL OVER AND SHUT/RESTART THE CAR A FEW TIMES. TAKEN IN TO KIA EACH TIME THIS HAPPENED. LAST NIGHT, JUNE 30, WAS THE FORTH TIME. KIA CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT'S WRONG WITH IT. IT IS SCARY AND UNSAFE AS I FEEL IT CAN CAUSE A REAR-END ACCIDENT.

THE WASTE GATE ACTUATOR ON KIA OPTIMA TURBO MODEL FAILED. THERE ARE THOUSANDS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS DEFECTIVE PART ONLINE AND KIA HAS NOT ADDRESS THE ISSUE OF THIS DEFECT. TO REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE PART WHICH IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY IS $500. DO NOT PURCHASE A KIA UNTIL THEY HAVE ADDRESSED THIS GLARING DEFECT. I'VE HAD 8 CARS IN MY LIFE 7 HONDAS AND 1 KIA. THE KIA WAS A BIG MISTAKE. *TR

VEHICLE HAD RANDOM ABNORMAL JERKING, BUCKING AND CLUNKING BY THE TRANSMISSION DURING NORMAL ACCELERATION, WHICH CAUSES ABNORMAL DECELERATION. THIS COULD CAUSE AN ISSUE WITH NORMAL DRIVING AND CAN CAUSE A REAR END ACCIDENT. THE CAUSE OF THIS AFTER VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, IS THE TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE RELAY. APPARENTLY THE MECHANIC ADVISED THAT OTHER VEHICLES HAVE BEEN BROUGHT IN WITH THE SAME RELAY ISSUE AND THERE HAS BEEN NO RECALLS ON THE PART. *TR

WHILE DRIVING MY 2012 KIA OPTIMA SX T GDI I LOST ACCELERATIONS ON THE HIGHWAY. I WAS DRIVING AT 55 MPH BECAUSE THE CAR WOULDN'T ACCELERATE, BUT IT DID DECREASE IN SPEED TO A DANGEROUS 20 MPH. I TRIED TO USE MY PADDLE SHIFTERS IN HOPES THAT WOULD WORK, TO NO AVAIL. I DEPRESSED THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR AND THE SPEED DID NOT CHANGE. I EVENTUALLY REACHED A SAFE PLACE AND SHUT THE CAR OFF, WAITED SEVERAL MINUTES AND ATTEMPTED RE-STARTING THE CAR. THE CAR SPUTTERED AND PAUSED BEFORE EVENTUALLY STARTING, THEN ALLOWED ME TO DRIVE APPROXIMATELY 100 YARDS BEFORE HAVING THE SAME DECREASED SPEED SITUATION AGAIN. I WAS FORTUNATE TO DRIVE HOME AT 45 MPH AND AVOID BEING RUN OFF THE RODE OR REAR ENDED BY ANOTHER VEHICLE OR WORSE . . . A TRUCK. THE NEXT MORNING I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP AND AFTER A DIAGNOSTIC WAS INFORMED THAT THE FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. NOT SUCH BAD NEWS BUT I WAS SHOCKED THAT THE PRICE QUOTED TO ME, BY THE SERVICE MANAGER, IS $900.00. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I SEARCHED ALL OVER THE INTERNET AND FOUND ALL THE PARTS THAT ARE RELATED TO THIS TYPE ISSUE AND NOTHING, NOT ONE PART, COST $900.00. THE PROPOSED COST TO REPAIR MY CAR IS GREATER THAN THE CAR PAYMENT. AS A MATTER OF FACT, IT COST MORE THAN THE CAR PAYMENT FOR MY WIFE'S ML500. I HAVE VISITED KIA FORUMS THAT SPEAK TO PROBLEMS WITH THE KIA AND IT SEEMS THAT A MANUFACTURER IS IN ORDER. INCIDENTALLY, THE PART IS NO LONGER COVERED BY THE WARRANTY BECAUSE I RECENTLY PASSED THE 60,000 MILE MARK. I FEEL LIKE I AM BEING RIPPED OFF TO HAVE THE CAR REPAIRED FOR WHAT WILL BE LESS THAN AN HOUR OF WORK TO REPLACED A MINOR PART, THAT INCIDENTALLY HAS A COST OF $900.00. I WILL BE WILLING TO PROVIDE ANY OTHER ADDITIONAL INFORMATION RELATED TO MY EXPERIENCE WITH MY 2012 KIA OPTIMA. I SHOULD BE PURCHASED AND AUDI. *TR

FIRST THING CAR WAS NOT SHIFTING GEARS. DEALER REPLACED TRANSMISSION. SECOND OCCURRENCE PULLED OUT AND CAR LOST POWER WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF ROAD TURN IGNITION OFF AND RESTARTED CAR WAS OK. DEALER REPLACED ENGINE CONTROL MODULE. NEXT OCCURRENCE NOV 2012 CAR DID SAME THING RESTARTED WAS OK ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF AFTER 2 DAYS. NOW JAN 2013 COLD MORNING STARTED DRIVING ENGINE HAD NO POWER. I GOT TO A OPEN ROAD SLOWLY PUSHED ACCELERATOR TO FLOOR WITH NO RESPONSE. CAR IS NOW IN DEALERSHIP I'M WAITING FOR MY PHONE CALL. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THERE WAS A GRINDING NOISE COMING FROM THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND AFTER INSPECTION, THEY INFORMED HER THAT THE FRONT AXLE SHAFT DETACHED FROM THE TRANSMISSION. THE TECHNICIANS REMOVED AND REPLACED THE RIGHT AXLE SHAFT, AND ALSO REASSEMBLED AND RE-TESTED THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED TWICE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 16,000.

AFTER WARMING UP ENGINE I DROVE ONTO THE ROAD AND ONTO A FREEWAY ENTRANCE RAM A QUARTER MILE FROM MY HOME. WHILE ENTERING THE FREEWAY, THE CAR "LOST POWER", IE NO THROTTLE RESPONSE, CAR WOULD NOT GO FASTER THAN 60 MPH. RPM WAS PEAKING OVER 3,000 RPM (HIGHER THAN NORMAL). I PUT THE AUTO/MANUAL FLOOR-SHIFT INTO MANUAL AND THE DASH SHOWED 4TH GEAR. I SHIFTED BACK AND FORTH BETWEEN AUTO AND MANUAL WITH THE SAME RESULTS SEVERAL TIMES, 4TH GEAR, OVER 3,000 RPM, LOSS OF POWER (NO THROTTLE RESPONSE), MAX SPEED 60 MPH. I NEARLY GOT REAR ENDED, CARS WERE DODGING ME. I WAS ABOUT TO PULL OFF THE ROAD AND EVERYTHING RETURNED TO NORMAL. I READ A SIMILAR REPORT A FEW MONTHS AGO FROM ANOTHER "NEW" OWNER OF AN OPTIMA AND THE DEALERSHIP "COULDN'T FIND" ANYTHING WRONG. I NOW HAVE READ LOTS OF WARRANTY-DENIED HORROR STORIES WITH KIA. THIS SEEMS LIKE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. I IMAGINE IT COULD BE A "COMPUTER PROBLEM" AS THERE ARE LOTS OF COMPUTERS IN THESE NEW CARS. I CAN'T FIND ANY TSB'S LISTED FOR TRANSMISSION RELATED PROBLEMS, BUT AM WONDERING HOW MANY OTHERS HAVE THIS "ELUSIVE" CONDITION? *TR

WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25MPH I HEARD A LOUD 'BANG'. SHORTLY THEREAFTER, MY OPTIMA WOULD PERIODICALLY SHIFT GEARS VERY ROUGHLY ON DOWNSHIFTS. THERE WAS ALSO A 'CLANKING' NOISE PRESENT ON THE ROUGH DOWNSHIFTS OR WHEN THE OPTIMA WAS SHIFTED INTO REVERSE. UPSHIFTS WHILE ACCELERATING SEEMED TO FUNCTION NORMALLY. I IMMEDIATELY BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE IT WAS PURCHASED. THE DEALERSHIP DETERMINED A BOLT HAD SNAPPED ON THE TRANSMISSION MOUNT CAUSING THE TRANSMISSION TO KNOCK INTO THE ENGINE WHEN IT SHIFTED. IT WAS THE BELIEF OF THE DEALERSHIP THAT THE BOLT HAD BEEN UNDER TORQUED WHEN IT WAS ASSEMBLED IN THE FACTORY. THE SUBFRAME AND A DENTED PIECE OF THE EXHAUST HAD TO BE REPLACED. THIS SEEMS VERY DANGEROUS TO ME, ESPECIALLY HAD IT OCCURRED ON AN EXPRESSWAY AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED THE RPMS REVVED ABNORMALLY HIGH BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE PROPERLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 400 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 10,500.

WAS SITTING AT LIGHT AND WENT TO TAKE OFF CAR FELT LIKE IT DIDN'T WANT TO SHIFT INTO GEAR AND HAD A LOUD ROUGH GRINDING NOISE, ALL LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD CAME ONE. BRAKE LIGHT, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, COOLANT, ETC AND NONE OF THE GAUGES WERE WORKING. I STOPPED AT THE STORE AND WENT TO LEAVE THE CAR WOULD START UP BUT WOULDN'T GO INTO GEAR, IT WAS STUCK IN PARK. I HAD TO GET IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT. I HAD JUST HAD THIS SAME PROBLEM 1 WEEK AGO WHERE ALL THE LIGHTS WERE ON AND THE GAUGES WEREN'T WORKING AND THE DEALERSHIP HAD SUPPOSEDLY REPLACED THE FUSE PANEL BOX BUT THAT APPARENTLY DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM. I THINK THAT IT'S A COMPUTER OR ENGINE ISSUE. *TR