2000 Dodge Durango Electrical Problems

Your engine suddenly shuts off while driving with no warning lights or dashboard alerts, making it happen unexpectedly on freeways and residential roads alike. You've already replaced the alternator, battery, starter, and three different PCM (engine computer) units, but the problem continues. The dealership found that the PCM keeps shutting down, which triggers a "no bus" error, suggesting the PCM itself may be defective even after trying new, used, and refurbished units. The fix will likely require diagnosing the PCM electrical connections or replacing it with a properly functioning unit, possibly with updated software.

Your car's electrical system suddenly stopped working properly while you were driving in heavy traffic. You lost your turn signals and other electrical components malfunctioned, creating a safety hazard for you and other drivers. The issue likely involves a failed alternator, battery, or blown fuse that needs to be diagnosed and replaced.

Your vehicle stalls unexpectedly while driving at high speeds or sitting at traffic lights and stop signs. A loose wire in the engine computer is causing the problem — you can temporarily fix it by plugging the wire back in, but it keeps coming loose and the stalling returns. The underlying issue needs to be permanently secured or the connector may need replacement to prevent future stalls.

WHEN DRIVING FOE 10 MILES. ENGINE SHUTS OFF. LOOSE ALL POWER. NEW PCM. SAME RESULTS.

I PURCHASED A 2000 DODGE DURANGO USED AT 147K MILES IN NOVEMBER 2014. BY MARCH 2015, IT TURNED OFF RANDOMLY WHILE I WAS DRIVING, MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF 6 MONTHS. THE SPEED DIDN'T MATTER. AFTER SEEING 2 MECHANICS, THEY SENT ME TO AN ELECTRICAL SPECIALIST WHO DETERMINED IT WAS MY PCM. I REPLACED IT 3 TIMES, AND THE SECOND ONE SENT TO ME HAD HOLES DRILLED IN IT THEN FILLED WITH SILICONE. THAT ONE WORKED THE LEAST. APPARENTLY, THE PCM WAS REPLACED ONCE BEFORE I PURCHASED IT. WHEN I GOT THE THIRD ONE IN, IT SEEMED TO CORRECT THE ISSUE. HOW IS THE ENGINE SHUTTING OFF RANDOMLY NOT A RECALL ISSUE? WHAT IF IT SHUT OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AT 65MPH? WHAT IF THERE WAS NO GOOD PLACE TO PULL OVER, AND WITH NO POWER STEERING I MIGHT ADD? I HAD MY KID IN THE CAR WITH ME MOST OF THE TIME.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS PULLED OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SENSORS WERE REPLACED (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT, SPEED CAM, AIC, SPARK PLUG WIRES, ROTORS AND DISTRIBUTOR CUP, DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR, IGNITION COIL, MAP SENSOR). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 138,000.

VIN # [XXX] SYSTEM ISSUES TRANSMISSION ISSUES ENGINE PROBLEMS AND AIR COOLING ISSUES DOOR ISSUES TO POWER WINDOWS AND WATER-COOLING ISSUES. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

I BOUGHT A 2000 DODGE DURANGO BACK IN JULY OF 2014 FROM A LOCAL DEALERSHIP. IN OCTOBER OF 2015 THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON A CITY STREET, GOING ABOUT 30 MILES PER HOUR. A CLOUD OF BLACK SMOKE CAME OUT OF MY HEATER VENTS, IT SMELT OF BURNT PLASTIC AND SULFUR. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER THAT HAPPENED ALL MY DASH LIGHTS CAME ON AND STARTED DINGING AT ME, AND THE BATTERY VOLTAGE METER WENT FROM OVER 18 TO UNDER 14. I WAS ABLE TO PULL INTO A LOCAL BUSINESS, AND PARKED THE VEHICLE, I SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF AND POPPED THE HOOD. UNDER THE HOOD IT SMELT EVEN STRONGER OF BURNT PLASTIC. I CHECKED THE OIL, THINKING THAT MAYBE I HAD AN OIL LEAK AND LOST ALL THE OIL I HAD JUST PUT INTO A WEEK BEFORE, BUT THE OIL WAS FINE. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID WAS FINE. ALL FLUIDS WERE FINE. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT STARTED SINCE AND I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT I NEED TO GET ALL NEW ELECTRICAL WIRES, COSTING ME ABOUT $5,000, I HAVE NOT YET PAID TO HAVE THE WORK DONE BECAUSE I HAVE READ ABOUT SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE, I BELIEVE THAT IT IS AN ISSUE THAT THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD HAVE TO COVER. MY TRUCK HAD TO BE TOWED HOME AND HAS NOT STARTED SINCE. I PAID A LITTLE OVER $5,000 FOR THE DURANGO, AND I'M NOT YET DONE PAYING IT OFF, AND UNTIL THIS IS LOOKED INTO FURTHER I AM NOT GOING TO PUT THE SAME AMOUNT OF MONEY INTO IT AS IT WILL COST ME TO JUST GO GET A NEW ONE OF THE SAME YEAR.

I WAS IN LINE AT A DRIVE THRU RESTUARANT WHEN I SMELLED SMOKE GOT OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND SAW FLAMES POURING FROM UNDER THE FRONT OF THE CAR, I YELLED FOR THE PEOPLE IN FRONT OF ME TO MOVE AND MOVED THE CAR TO A SAFER PLACE IN THE PARKING LOT. SINCE I HAD LEFT ALL BELONGINGS INCLUDING MY PHONE ASSISTANCE WAS REQUESTED FROM SPECTATORS TO CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WHO CAME AND PUT THE FIRE OUT, BY THEN THERE WASN NOT MUCH LECT UNDER THE HOOD AS IT HAD ALL BURNED.

DRIVERS POWER SEAT 'SLACK". WHEN YOU APPLY BRAKES TO STOP, THE SEAT SLIDES FORWARD THEN RETURNS BACK AFTER THE STOPPING MOTION ENDS. THIS AFFECTS THE DRIVERS SEAT POSITION AND BRAKING ACTION. IN AN ACCIDENT THIS WILL PUT THE DRIVER CLOSER TO THE STEERING WHEEL AND AIR BAG. SUSPENSION- DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY , IF YOU ENCOUNTER BUMPY OR ROUGH ROADS ON A CURVE THE CAR WILL SOMETIMES SLIP SIDEWAYS A BIT, IT'S ENOUGH TO STARTLE YOU FOR A MOMENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR CONDITIONER LEAKED UNDER THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE MECHANIC ADDED DYE TO THE REFRIGERANT TO DETERMINE WHERE THE LEAK WAS LOCATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

DURING THE ACCIDENT MY TRUCK WAS HIT HEAD-ON BY A VAN AND THE AIR BAG DID NOT DEPLOY. I HAD HEAD INJURY (HEADACHES, MEMORY LAPSES, CONFUSION, BLURY EYES, BACK/LEGS PAINS TILL THIS VERY DAY. CHRYSLER WAS INFORMED SEVERAL TIMES ABOUT THE PROBLEMS WITH THE TRUCK BEFORE THE ACCIDENT AND THEY REFUSED TO RESOLVE IT AND AFTER THE ACCIDENT, THEY STILL REFUSED TO RESOLVE IT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR LOCKS FAILED AND WOULD NOT DISENGAGE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS WHERE IT WAS STATED THAT THE DOOR CONTROL PANEL AND DOOR MOTOR LOCKS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000. *TR

I HAVE A 2000 DURANGO 5.9 THAT WILL SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. NO CODES ARE STORED, AND THE DASH READS "NO BUS". IT HAS DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES OVER THE PAST FEW MONTHS AND WILL ALWAYS RESTART AFTER A FEW MINUTES. THIS LAST TIME IT WOULDN'T RESTART AND WE HAD IT TOWED HOME AND IT STARTED UP AFTER THAT JUST FINE. I HAVE REPLACED MOST OF THE IGNITION SYSTEM AND PULLED THE FUEL PUMP TO NO AVAIL. IT IS MY WIFE'S CAR AND SHE AND I BOTH CAN'T TRUST IT ANY MORE WITH THE SAFETY OF MY WIFE AND CHILDREN. THERE ARE MULTIPLE POSTS AND COMPLAINTS ONLINE ABOUT THIS PROBLEM BUT NO SINGLE "FIX", AND NOTHING OFFICIAL FROM DODGE ADDRESSING THIS VERY SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

DODGE DURANGO 2000 MODEL INTERMITTENT TURN SIGNAL FAILURE..STARTED HAPPENING JUST A FEW TIMES NOW HAPPENS EVERY TIME WE DRIVE..TURN SIGNALS STOP FUNCTIONING HAVE REPLACES THE RELAY AND BULBS AND STILL NO FIX...THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ONLINE BUT NO REMEDY. *TR

I HAVE A 2000 DODGE DURANGO WITH 118K AND WITH OUT WARNING I LOSE ALL POWER GAS BRAKES STEERING ETC AND FOR ME TO GET THE CAR STARTED AGAIN I HAVE TO POP THE HOOD AND WIGGLE THE MIDDLE PCM HARNESS ( WHICH IS A WHITE CONNECTOR) AND THEN IM ABLE TO START MY CAR AGAIN. THIS ALSO ONCE CAUSE ME TO GO BOUNCE OFF A WALL IN A PARKING GARAGE BECAUSE OF THE LOSS OF POWER STEERING AND BRAKES WHEN THE CUT OFF ON ME WHILE TRYING TO MAKE A TURN. *TR

I OWN A 2000 DODGE DURANGO SLT 4WD. THE VEHICLE SHUTS OFF WHEN THE OUTDOOR TEMPERATURE EXCEEDS 75 DEGREES. I HAVE TRACED THE ISSUE TO THE PCM OF THE VEHICLE, WHICH BECOMES SO HOT THAT YOU CANNOT TOUCH ITS METAL HOUSING WITH YOUR HANDS. THE PCM IS LOCATED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, BOLTED ABOVE THE PASSENGER FRONT TIRE. THE PCM HAS THREE WIRE HARNESSES ATTACHED TO IT, AND ONCE THE PCM HEATS UP, A "KILL" SWITCH IS TRIGGERED AND THE VEHICLE SHUTS OFF. SHORTLY AFTER, THE ODOMETER READS "NO BUS" AND THE ONLY WAY TO RESET THE PCM IS TO LEAVE THE IGNITION KEY IN THE "ON" POSITION, PULL THE PCM WIRE HARNESS THAT IS CLOSEST TO THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT, RE-SEAT THE HARNESS AND HOPE THAT YOU HEAR A "CLICKING" SOUND. THE VEHICLE NORMALLY RE-STARTS, BUT WILL AGAIN TURN OFF AT INTERMITTENT TIMES. ON A TYPICAL DAY OF 80*, I WILL PERFORM THIS PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES IN MY 22-MILE ROUND-TRIP TO WORK. MANY PEOPLE HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING THE SAME EVENTS, THUS CAUSING NIGHTMARES FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT HAVE A SAFE PULL-OFF FROM ROADS, OR THOSE THAT ARE IN INTERSECTIONS OR NEAR CROSSWALKS, SINCE THE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN SPORADICALLY. *TR

PCM ON DODGE DURANGO'S KEEP GOING BAD CAUSING THE TRUCK TO GO DEAD WITH OUT WARNING. I HAVE HAD A NEW ONE PUT ON MY DODGE AND IT WENT BAD TOO. *TR

OUR DOOR LOCK SYSTEM IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY. IT STARTED WITH A LOUD NOISE WHEN WE HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON. NOW, WHEN YOU HIT THE UNLOCK FROM THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR, BOTH PASSENGER DOORS WILL NOT UNLOCK AND HAVE TO BE DONE SO MANUALLY. IF YOU USE THE KEY ON THE PASSENGER DOOR, IT WILL UNLOCK ALL OF THE DOORS. NOW THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCK DOES NOT LOCK WHEN HITTING DOOR LOCK, BUT CAR ALARM IS STILL ACTIVATED. *TR

A FEW WEEKS AGO, IT STARTED WITH THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT, AND GATE OPEN LIGHT COMING ON WHEN NOTHING WAS OPEN. A LOT OF ICE BUILD UP (BAD SEALS) MADE THE DRIVER DOOR DIFFICULT TO LATCH. A WEEK AGO WE WERE DRIVING AND ALL OF THE LOCKS STARTED UNLOCKING REPEATEDLY. NOW WE CAN'T EVEN LOCK OUR TRUCK, IT UNLOCKS ITSELF. IT DOES THIS WHETHER THE VEHICLE IS ON OR NOT. IT ALSO TURNS ON THE INTERIOR LIGHTS. THE SWITCHES DO NOT WORK TO LOCK THE DOORS. WE HAVE TO REMOVE THE FUSE (WHICH ALSO CONTROLS THE WIPERS, BAD IDEA) TO STOP THE LOCKS FROM UNLOCKING. ALSO, IT ARMS THE SECURITY SYSTEM ( I THINK)AND MAKES IT SO THE TRUCK SHUTS OFF ON IT'S OWN. I FEEL EXTREMELY UNSAFE NOW THAT I MY VEHICLE UNLOCKS ITSELF AND SHUTS OFF. LAST NIGHT WE CAME OUT TO THE PARKING LOT TO DISCOVER IT UNLOCKED AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WERE TURNING ON AND OFF THE WHOLE TIME. I HAVE TO TAKE MY 3 YEAR OLD IN THIS VEHICLE. I KNOW THAT THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH A LOT OF DURANGOS AND CHRYSLER BETTER DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT NOW! THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE, AND I CAN'T BELIEVE IT'S BEING IGNORED. *JB

THE AUXILIARY FAN RELAY SHORTED OUT CAUSING THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BLOCK AND WIRING TO MELT. ALSO THE FAN COMMUNALLY RAN, DRAINING ALL VOLTAGE FROM THE BATTERY. THIS ALSO CAUSED A SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT, THOUGH THE DEALER DID NOT DISCLOSE WHAT CODE WAS SET. THE DEALER DID NOT FIX THIS THE SAME DAY, THEY ALLOWED ME TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH THE CONSTANTLY RUNNING FAN, FUSED TOGETHER WIRING, AND MELTED POWER DISTRIBUTION BLOCK BEFORE THEY HAD TIME TO FIX IT! *JB

WE HAVE A 2000 DODGE DURANGO THAT NEEDS A NEW POWER BOX/HARNESS. MY MECHANIC TRIED TO GET A REPLACEMENT PART BUT WAS TOLD BY THE PARTS MANUFACTURER THAT DUE TO KNOWN PROBLEMS WITH THE DURANGO POWER BOX/HARNESS THAT THE PART WAS REDESIGNED BY DAIMLER CHRYSLER. MY MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT THE PROBLEM WITH THE POWER BOX HARNESS SHORTED THE WIRING AND THAT I WAS LUCKY THAT IT DID NOT IGNITE WHILE I WAS DRIVING. THE COST TO COVER THE REPAIRS IS OVER $4,000. I BELIEVE THAT THIS PROBLEM SHOULD HAVE BEEN RECALLED BY DAIMLER CHRYSLER AND THAT I SHOULD NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE COST OF REPAIRS FOR SOMETHING THAT COULD HAVE CAUSED GRAVE DANGER TO ME AND MY FAMILY. *JB

AN AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCK OF OUR 2000 DODGE DURANGO DOES NOT UNLOCK ONE DOOR WHEN THE FRONT CONTROL IS ACTIVATED. THE LOCK HAS TO BE MANUALLY LIFTED. IF THE FRONT CONTROL IS NOT USED TO UNLOCK THE WHOLE CAR, THE ONE DEFECTIVE LOCK CANNOT BE UNLOCKED MANUALLY. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD. THIS IS THE SECOND ACTIVATOR THAT HAS GONE BAD ON THIS CAR. THE FIRST WAS THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE AND THE CURRENT DEFECTIVE LOCK IS THE RIGHT REAR PASSENGER DOOR. *JB

FIRE INVOLVING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND THE LEFT REAR TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY TO A 2000 DODGE DURANGO SUV. THE FIRE STARTED AFTER THE LOSS OF DASH BOARD LIGHTS WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TRAVELING. 10 MINUTES AFTER THE CAR WAS STOPPED, THE FIRE APPEARS TO HAVE ORIGINATED IN THE LEFT REAR TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY OR THE WIRING CLOSE TO THE TAIL LIGHT. *NM

DT: 2000 DODGE DURANGO. THE CONSUMER HAD A PROBLEM FIXED TWICE. THE CONSUMER WENT TO HAVE THE PROBLEM FIXED FOR THE THIRD TIME, AND THE MECHANIC SHOP TOLD HER THAT THEY CONTACTED CHRYSLER, AND CHRYSLER TOLD THE MECHANIC SHOP THIS WAS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM WAS A CLUSTER FOR THE DASHBOARD. THE CONSUMER STATED THE ENGINE REVVED VERY LOUDLY JUST SITTING STILL. ALSO WHILE DRIVING, AND EVEN IN CRUISE CONTROL. CHRYSLER SAID ALL THEY COULD DO WAS PUT A NOTE IN CONSUMER'S FILE. *AK

WHILE DRIVING AT 15 MPH THE PASSENGER'S ELECTRICAL SIDE DOOR WOULD LOCK. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND THE KEY WAS INSERTED INTO THE DOOR THE LOCK FAILED TO OPEN. THE DRIVER USED THE REMOTE CONTROL TO UNLOCK THE DOORS. THE DRIVER HAD TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER NUMEROUS TIMES FOR LOCK PROBLEMS BUT THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE OR RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. *AK THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR WAS REPAIRED FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. THE DOOR ACTUATOR WAS REPLACED. CURRENTLY THE RIGHT REAR DOOR LOCK WAS BROKEN AND DODGE WOULD NOT REPLACE UNDER WARRANTY. THE DOORS COULD NOT BE UNLOCKED MANUALLY. *SC *JB

MY 2000 DODGE DURANGO WITH APPROXIMATELY 30,000 MILES ON IT MYSTERIOUSLY AND UNEXPECTEDLY BURST INTO FLAMES IN THE FRONT END. WITHIN SIXTY SECONDS, THE ENTIRE VEHICLE WAS ENGULFED AND BECAME A TOTAL LOSS. THREE VARIOUS FIRE INVESTIGATORS WERE UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE RESULTANT CAUSE OF THE BLAZE.*AK

RIGHT REAR PASSENGER DOOR LOCKED FROM INSIDE AND OUTSIDE, A FEW WEEKS LATER, THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY, BUT THE WINDOW WILL NOT ROLL DOWN, AND EVER SINCE THEN, WHEN THE VEHICLE EXCEEDS 15 MPH, A LOUD BUZZING (DOORS LOCKING)SURPRISES GUEST PASSENGERS. *JB

VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND SUDDENLY IGNITED. DEALER WAS CONTACTED, AND STATED COMPONENTS AROUND ALTERNATOR WERE BLEEDING. PLEASE PROVIDE FURTHER DETAILS.*AK

THE INSURED STATED THE FIRE APPEARED TO HAVE STARTED IN THE HEADLIGHT. CLAIM# 13-7435-963.*YH

THE INSURED STATED THE FIRE APPEARED TO HAVE STARTED IN THE HEADLIGHT. CLAIM# 13-7435-963.*YH

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WITHOUT ANY WARNING THE VEHICLE CAUGHT FIRE UNDER THE HOOD. I LOST STEERING AND BRAKES. WAS ABLE TO RUN VEHICLE INTO CURB AND JUST GOT OUT BEFORE THINGS STARTED BLOWING UP. THE VEHICLE WAS COMPLETLY DISTROYED. I REPORTED THE INCIDENT TO MY INSURANCE AND A FEW DAYS LATER I WAS CONTACTED BY A INVISTAGATOR FROM DAIMLER CHRYSLER WHO STATED THAT THEY WANTED TO REPLACE MY VEHICLE BECAUSE THE FIRE WAS THERE FAULT. THIS STATEMENT LEAD ME TO BELEAVE DAIMLER CHRYSLER KNOWS ABOUT A PROBLEM AND WANT TO KEEP IT VERY QUITE. I WAS TOLD IF I TALK TO ANY ONE THE DEAL WOULD BE OFF. AS OF NOW I STILL DO NOT HAVE MY REPLACEMENT VEHICLE. DAIMLER CHRYSLER IS INSISTING I TAKE A VEHICLE OF LESSER VALUE THAT MY DURANGO. ANY INFORMATION REGUARDING THIS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRICIATED. I FEEL LIKE I AM AT THE MERCY OF A VERY POWERFUL CORPORATION.*AK

A CLIP WITHIN AIR BAR ASSEMBLY BROKE, CAUSING COMPLETE MALFUCTION OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. PLEASE GIVE ANY FURTHER DETAILS. *AK

VEHICLE CAUGHT FIRE SHORTLY AFTER PARKING IT. IT GAVE NO INDICATION OF A PROBLEM PREVIOUS TO THE FIRE. DEALER GAVE NO EXPLANATION OR REASON FOR THE FIRE. *AK

SINCE GETTING THE THE CAR IN FEB OF THIS YEAR THE CAR WAS BACK TO THE DEALER FOR MORE THAN 26 DAYS BECAUSE THE CAR KEEPS LOSING ALL ITS ELECTRICAL POWER WITHOUT WARNING TWICE HAPPEND ON FREEWAY IN HEAVY TRAFFIC . DEALER INSTALLED COPILOT TWICE TO DOWNLOAD IF CAR STALLS AGAIN . COPILOT DID NOT WORK FIRST TIME PLUS MAKES DRIVING DANGEROUS BECAUSE OF WIRRING BETWEEN LEGS.*AK