2007 Toyota 4runner Other Problems

Your 4Runner's frame has corroded severely and faster than the rest of the truck's metal, making it unsafe to drive. A Toyota dealer inspected it and confirmed the frame is unsafe, with dangerous rust around the steering control arm and rear axle control arm mounts that could cause the frame to fail and lose vehicle control. If the rusted frame breaks, you could be thrown into traffic, endangering yourself, passengers, and other drivers. Fixing this typically requires frame repair or replacement, which is a major structural repair.

Your 4Runner's frame has rusted through on the passenger side following an accident, which raises safety concerns. Additionally, other parts of the vehicle show rust damage, including the gas tank area. You may want to have a professional inspect the structural integrity before driving.

Your front passenger side and back driver side doors won't unlock using the remote key fob. This could be a safety concern if you need to quickly exit the vehicle after an accident or need immediate access to the car. No warning lights appeared, and you're unsure when the problem started. The issue likely involves the door lock actuators or electrical connections that need inspection and repair.

Your 4Runner's Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) is defective, triggering multiple emissions-related diagnostic codes (P1442, P1445, P2441, P1441). This system needs to be replaced with a new one to restore proper emissions control and pass inspections. The repair involves installing a complete new Secondary Air Injection System.

When you turned on your rear window defroster, the rear window suddenly popped and shattered, sending glass into the interior of your car. This is a serious safety hazard since broken glass can injure occupants and impair visibility. The repair will likely involve replacing the entire rear window with a new one.

FRAME RUST SO BAD THAT HOLES ARE STARTING TO APPEAR.

THE FRAME IS RUSTED OUT. MY MECHANIC SAID IT WILL NOT BE INSPECTABLE.

TAKATA RECALL: THE SUN VISOR ON THE DRIVER AND PASSAGE DON'T STAY UP ANY MORE. KEEP FALLING.

MELTED BLACK BACK DOOR LIFT GATE RELEASE SWITCH. PART#84840-35010 DEALER SAID IT WAS SHORTED OUT THAT CAUSED IT TO MELT AND BECOME STICKY.

THE RUBBER ON THE INSIDE THE TAILGATE HANDLE HAS MELTED AND ERODED. IT IS STICKY TO THE TOUCH AND CONSISTS OF A BLACK TAR-LIKE SUBSTANCE. YEAR ROUND THE HANDLE IS DIFFICULT TO LATCH. THIS IS AN OBVIOUSLY FAULTY PART, AND SHOULD BE REPLACED AS THE MANUFACTURER IS WELL AWARE OF THIS ISSUE. I HEARD THAT TOYOTA SHIPPED A PUNCH OF FAULTY DOOR OPENERS LIKE THIS IN 2006.

THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON A TOWN 2 LANE HIGHWAY, SPEED LIMIT 40, GOOG WEATHER, WHEN THE CAR SUDDENLY TURNED TO THE LEFT AND MADE A LOUD BEEPING NOISE. I TURNED IT BACK TO GAIN CONTROL AND RETURN TO THE CORRECT LINE OF TRAVEL. BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER WHERE SYSTEM TESTS WERE PERFORMED PER TOYOTA AND NOTHING WAS FOUND TO BE WRONG. THIS HAD HAPPENED BEFORE.

WHILE TRAVELING UNDER CRUISE CONTROL AT 55- 60 MPH ON A RURAL 2 LANE HIGHWAY IN NC, I CAME UPON A VEHICLE IN MY LANE TRAVELING AT A SLOWER RATE OF SPEED. AS I APPROACHED THE VEHICLE, I ACCELERATED TO PASS. WHILE PASSING I COULD TELL THAT THE VEHICLE FELT LIKE IT WAS MOVING FASTER THAN THE 60 - 65 MPH IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN FOR THE AMOUNT OF GAS I GAVE IT, BUT I WAS CONCENTRATING ON COMPLETING THE PASS AND DID NOT LOOK AT THE SPEEDOMETER. AFTER PASSING AND PULLING BACK INTO MY LANE, I DEPRESSED THE BRAKE TO SLOW DOWN. MY VEHICLE SLOWED SLIGHTLY BUT FELT ODD, LIKE IT WAS PULLING. WHEN I REMOVED MY FOOT FROM THE BRAKE, MY VEHICLE BEGAN RAPIDLY ACCELERATING ON ITS OWN, QUICKLY GETTING TO ABOUT 70 - 75 MPH BEFORE I DEPRESSED THE BRAKE AGAIN. AGAIN THE VEHICLE SLOWED SLIGHTLY BUT FELT ODD, LIKE IT WAS PULLING. WHEN I REMOVED MY FOOT FROM THE BRAKE, MY VEHICLE AGAIN RAPIDLY ACCELERATED ON ITS OWN, AT WHICH POINT I REALIZED SOMETHING WAS WRONG AND DEPRESSED THE BRAKE HARDER. THE VEHICLE PULLED HARDER THIS TIME AND STARTED VIBRATING SEVERELY. I REMOVED MY FOOT FROM THE BRAKE AND THE VEHICLE AGAIN BEGAN ACCELERATING. I SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL AND BROUGHT THE CAR TO A STOP ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. OVER THE NEXT ~ 20 MINUTES I TRIED ~ 4 - 5 TIMES TO CRANK THE CAR. EACH TIME THE ENGINE IMMEDIATELY REVVED SUCH THAT THE TACHOMETER ALMOST INSTANTLY HIT RED ZONE, AND I CUT THE ENGINE OFF. I CALLED TOYOTA'S "800" PHONE NUMBER, AND THEY TOLD ME TO GET THE CAR TO A TOTOTA DEALER. BEFORE CALLING A TOW TRUCK, I TRIED CRANKING THE CAR ONE MORE TIME, AND THAT TIME THE ENGINE CRANKED NORMALLY.