2016 Subaru Crosstrek Other Problems

Your 2016 Crosstrek occasionally loses power when you press the accelerator, forcing you to release and re-press the gas pedal to regain power. This happens unpredictably and is becoming more frequent, creating a serious safety risk since your car can suddenly lose acceleration during lane changes or turns, leaving you vulnerable to rear-end collisions. Your dealership has been unable to consistently reproduce or diagnose the problem. The issue may involve a fuel delivery, throttle control, or transmission response problem that requires computer diagnostic testing to identify and repair.

Your clutch failed at 64,000 miles, and when you took your car to the dealership, they discovered the problem extended beyond just the clutch and master cylinder. A component called the 'snout' broke off inside the transmission, requiring the entire transmission to be replaced at a cost of $9,000. This repair cost is nearly equal to the entire vehicle's value, which is frustrating given the low mileage.

While driving on the freeway with cruise control enabled, your car suddenly lost power—the cruise control shut off and the engine felt like it went into neutral, with the gas pedal only revving the engine without moving the car forward. You were able to coast to an exit, but near the top of a hill all your dashboard warning lights came on and the engine shut off completely. When the dealership examined the car the next day, it started normally and their computer diagnostic found no issues, though your fuel level was low at that time.

Your 2016 Crosstrek hesitates when you accelerate from a stop, and the dealership confirmed they feel the problem but don't know what's causing it. They quoted over $1,000 to diagnose and fix it with no guarantee of success. Your main concern is that this hesitation could cause the car to stall in traffic, creating a safety risk—though so far it's only hesitating during initial acceleration, not stalling. The fix will likely require diagnostic testing to identify the root cause, which could involve the fuel system, ignition system, or engine control modules.

While driving down the highway, the hood popped open and slammed backwards, shattering my windshield, damaging both fenders (to the point where the hood could not be lowered back down), and wrinkling the roof. I was in the middle lane and had to navigate blindly over to the shoulder, while covered in glass; miraculously, I was able to do so safely. It is a miracle I was not hurt or killed and that others around me were not hurt or killed. There was very real potential for a multi car pile up that day. I'm not aware of reproduction or confirmation of the problem. Police responded, but stated since I did not hit anything, there would be no accident report. My insurance inspected the vehicle at least twice, as did my mechanic throughout the course of his estimation and repair. At my last oil change at the dealership (months prior), the desk agent mentioned the auto techs had a hard time getting my hood closed but recommended no further service to me.

Sunroof exploded - driving on interstate at about 75 miles an hour, Sunday around 11:30a, temperature around 80 degrees, no flying debris, heard something like a small explosion and then shattered car glass blowing along roof. Pulled over to see the sunroof looked like it had blown up and out leaving hole about a foot wide. The interior ceiling panel had been closed so I couldn't see it from the inside, no damage to the interior panel that I could see. The car had been parked under my car port overnight, I'd been on the road about 15-20 minutes, no drastic changes in weather and no sounds from roof before explosion. No apparent damage to car/roof prior to explosion.

In October 2020, the OEM transmission on my 2016 Subaru Crosstrek failed at 87,500 miles. The transmission was covered under a recent extension of the warranty from 60,000 to 100,000 miles. See website info regarding extended warranty: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10146475-9999.pdf After driving the "new" transmission for 18 months and 40,000 miles, the transmission failed again. This time, Subaru America refused, at first, to admit any fault. They initially offered $1000 for replacement, then increased to $3500 as a final offer. My out of pocket was $4710. Now, after 8 months and less than 12,000 miles, the transmission has failed AGAIN. This transmission is under a 1 year/unlimited miles warranty. This will be the 4th transmission in a vehicle with 143,000 miles on it.

My horn does not works when wheels are straight. If I turn the steering wheel to either side horn works. No fuse or solenoid problem; I replaced both.

The key will not come out of the ignition when placing the car in park! We have to fiddle with the shifter to get the key to release. Contacted the dealer and Subaru of America to see if this could be fixed as a recall, unfortunately it is a service bulletin as of now and costs >$500 to fix this known problem that occurred on a vehicle with 50K miles! This is unacceptable and would like it fixed at no charge.

Key gets stuck in ignition when vehicle is in park. The key will go to the on position but cannot be pulled out. You must turn the car back on and go into drive and reverse and park again to try and get the key to come out. Sometimes this does not work and you must do so again.

IGNITION KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION AND CAR REMAINS ON UNTIL IT CAN BE REMOVED.THIS HAPPENS AFTER PLACING THE CAR IN PARK. CHANGING TO ANOTHER KEY DOES NOT CHANGE THE PROBLEM. AN INTERNET SEARCH AND THE CAR DEALERSHIP NOTE THAT IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN SUBARU'S.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN IN PARK AND HARD TO GET OUT. HAVE TO START THE VEHICLE, SHIFT AND TRY AGAIN FOR IT TO COME OUT.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION SWITCH WHILE IN PARK AND DOES NOT WANT TO COME OUT.

2016 SUBARU CROSSTREK DRIVING WENT TO PARK KEY GOT STUCK IN IGNITION COULD NOT TAKE IT OUT CANT UNDERSTAND WHY SO MANY PROBLEMS AND NO RECALLS

OUT OF GAS WITH 3 BARS SHOWING...TWICE *TR *BF*JB

A/C COMPRESSOR HAS FAILED AND THE CAR HAS LESS THAN 80K MILES.

CAR IS PARKED AND KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION TO REMOVE IT.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HWY APPROX 1.5 HRS TRAVELING 75 MPH AND 60 MILES OF GAS LEFT IN TANK THE VEHICLE CUT OFF.. I COASTED INTO THE EMERGENCY LANE AND SHUT OFF VEH. NO WARNING LIGHTS GIVEN OR OUT OF FUEL. RE-STARTED THE VEHICLE AND DROVE WITHOUT ISSUES TO THE NEXT EXIT, FILLED THE TANK AND CONTINUED ANOTHER 45 MIN TO HOME WITHOUT ISSUE. SINCE, IVE ONLY DRIVEN SHORT DISTANCES TO AND FROM WORK AND ERRANDS W/O ISSUES. AFRAID IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN AND CONCERNED ABOUT ANY FUTURE ROAD TRIPS. DO TO NO WARNING OR REPAIR LIGHTS AND THE VEH DRIVING W/O ISSUE, I DON'T KNOW WHERE TO BEGIN. I JUST WANT TO FEEL SAFE DRIVING MY VEHICLE FURTHER THAN HOME

THREE YEAR OLD CAR AND HORN DOESN'T WORK ,,,

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. SEVERITY INCREASES WITH OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE AND DRIVE TIME. KEY HAS BEEN UNABLE TO BE REMOVED ON TWO OCCASIONS. REPEATED VISITS TO THE DEALERSHIP HAS RESULTED IN NO LONG TERM FIXES. THIS IS AN ON GOING ISSUE SINCE FEB 2019. THIS RESULTS IN A CAR IN PARK, THAT CAN NOT BE LOCKED, WITH A KEY THAT CAN BE TURNED ON AND USED BY ANYONE WHO OPENS THE DOOR AND SITS IN THE DRIVERS SEAT.

MY WIFE WAS JUST GETTING ON THE FREEWAY WHEN THE SUNROOF EXPLODED AND SHATTERED GLASS ALL THROUGH THE CAR. NOTHING HIT THE CAR AND THERE WAS NO WEATHER CONDITIONS, IT WAS SUNNY AND 68 DEGREES IN BOISE, ID.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION AFTER VEHICLE SHUT OFF. CAN NOT BE REMOVED UNTIL TRYING TO SHIFT GEAR. SEEMS LIKE IT IS NOT GOING INTO PARK. STARTED AUGUST 8, 2019 AND EVERY DAY SINCE.

WHEN GETTING OUT OF THE VEHICLE KEY IS ALWAYS STUCK EVEN IF THE SHIFTER IS ON PARK MODE, HAD TO RESTART THE ENGINE AND PUSH THE SHIFTER WITH FORCE TO RELEASE THE KEY.

THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER PLACING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING THE ENGINE OFF. THE CAR DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT IT IS IN PARK SO IT WON'T RELEASE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. WE TOOK THE CAR IN FOR THE BREAK LIGHT SWITCH RECALL AND IT STARTED HAPPENING THE NEXT WEEK.

I MADE SEVERAL COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE CAR NOT STARTING, TOO MUCH OIL CONSUMPTION ETC...THEN ON NOVEMBER 11, 2018, AT 3.42PM I WAS DRIVING ON HIGHWAY 87 WHEN CAR STOPPED SUDDENLY, SMOKE CAME OUT AND FLAMES. IT BURNED DOWN IN 15 MINUTES. POLICE AND FIRE DEPARTMENT CAME TO TURN THE FIRE DOWN. THE CAR IS TOTAL LOSS. I COULD HAVE DIED

THE RADIO WITH SIRIUSXM DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY. APPARENTLY, SIRIUS UPDATED IS SOFTWARE, HOWEVER; THE SUBARU RADIOS ARE NOW NOT IN SYNC WITH SIRIUS. MY SITUATION IS NOT AN ISOLATED SITUATION. SPECIFICALLY, THE "LIST" DOES NOT WORK ANYMORE. IT COULD BE DANGEROUS TO MANUALLY CHANGE CHANNELS WITH THE KNOB, AS THERE ARE OVER 300 CHANNELS

TWICE NOW MY CAR HAS GONE LIMP ON THE FREEWAY. IT DOESN'T SHUT DOWN BUT THE ACCELERATOR STOPS WORKING AND I HAVE TO COAST OFF THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND RESTART IT. WHEN I DO RESTART IT IT'S FINE. BOTH TIMES THE ENGINE DOESN'T EVEN REV WHEN I PRESS THE GAS; IT'S JUST UNRESPONSIVE. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR ANYTHING EITHER. IT'S ALWAYS BEEN WHEN I WAS GOING AROUND 70 MPH AND THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE HAS BEEN HOT; PROBABLY 88-90 DEGREES.

TOXIC SMELL IN THE CAR. I NOTICED IT WHEN THE SALESMAN WAS GOING OVER HOW TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE AND HE SAID HE NOTICED IT, ALSO. I FIGURED IT WAS BRAND NEW AND IT WOULD GET BETTER, BUT IT DID NOT AND I HAVE HAD IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AT LEAST 6 TIMES. THEY HAVE TRIED MANY THINGS TO GET RID OF THE SMELL. NOTHING WORKS. NOW THEY SAY NOTHING IS MECHANICALLY WRONG, SO I AM STUCK WITH A CAR THAT MAKES ME SICK. THIS IS NOT NEW CAR SMELL, I WISH IT WERE. I HAVE BEEN IN AT LEAST 6 OTHER NEW SUBARU'S, AND NONE OF THEM SMELL LIKE THIS ONE DOES. THE SMELL IS NOT GETTING ANY BETTER OR FADING. IT MAKES ME LIGHTHEADED, GIVES ME HEADACHES, SORE THROATS, BLURRY VISION, POST NASAL DRIP, AND IF IN IT LONG ENOUGH, NAUSEA. MY HUSBAND ALSO HAS THESE ISSUES AND WILL NOT RIDE IN THE CAR.