2006 Ford Fusion Electrical Problems

Your car's evaporative cooling temperature sensor is giving false readings, making the climate control system emit unpredictably hot or cold air even when outdoor temperatures are over 100 degrees. Because the sensor readings are incorrect, your car may not properly detect overheating conditions, leaving you unsure whether your engine temperature gauge is accurate or if your car is at risk of overheating. The fix will likely involve replacing the faulty evaporative temperature sensor.

COMPUTER SHORT CIRCUITED CAUSING CAR TO MISFIRE MELTING THE COIL AND COULD HAVE SET THE CAR ON FIRE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. MY MECHANIC SAID THIS IS THE SECOND FORD HE HAS SEEN DO THIS. HE STATED IT IS DANGEROUS.

I GOT A 06 FORD FUSION THAT I READ ABOUT ,IT STAYED THAT FORD MOTORS WAS WELL AWARE OF THE E-VAP SENSOR FOR THE AIRCONDITON IT STOP MY COMPRESSOR FOR TURNING ON [THE CAUSE WAS EVAPORATOR DISCHARGE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR]FORD IS WELL AWARE THAT THE SENSORS ARE FAULTY"I THINK THIS IS A SAFETY MATTER BECAUSE OF THE HIGH HEAT TEMPERATURES. WHILE DRIVING WE SHOULD FEEL COMFORTABLE NOT TIRED FROM HEAT EXHAUSTION

CITY OF DOWNEY CA L. DO NOT HAVE FIX PARKING PERMITS TO PARK AT THIS LOCATION? ADDRESS REQUIRES REPAVING DRIVE WAY...? AT: 11739 TRISTAN DR LOT#1234 BUCKLES ST DOWNEY, CA 90241-1551 USA

DRIVERS SIDE FRONT TURN SIGNAL DOES NOT FLASH, STAYS SOLID. CHANGED THE BULB, DOES THE SAME THING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SMART JUNCTION BOX FAILED TO FUNCTION CAUSING THE BATTERY AND ALL OF THE TURN SIGNAL FUNCTIONS TO FAIL. A DEALER HAD NOT DIAGNOSED THE VEHICLE BUT AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THAT THE SMART JUNCTION BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, PROVIDED NO SOLUTION, AND INDICATED THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL. THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED IF THE PART WAS REPLACED THAT THE FAILURE WOULD CONTINUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE. *TT

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A BEEPING NOISE AND THE AIR BAG WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. ALSO, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO CRANK. THE BATTERY WAS RECHARGED, THE VEHICLE RESTARTED, AND THE WARNING INDICATOR DIMMED. THE DEALER (PARK FORD, 400 WEST AVE, TALLMADGE, OH 44278, (330) 633-6222) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND DID NOT PROVIDE A SPECIFIC DIAGNOSIS. THE DEALER WAS ALSO UNABLE TO DETERMINE WHEN THE REMEDY AND REPAIR PART WOULD BE SUPPLIED TO SCHEDULE THE RECALL REPAIR FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V384000 (AIR BAGS). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

"TAKATA RECALL" SND I WAS DRIVING VEHICLE WHEN TURN SIGNALS ON BOTH FRONT RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE STOPPED WORKING. RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL JUST STAYED ON , SO I HAD TO DISCONNECT IT OTHERWISE IT WOULD HAVE DRAINED THE BATTERY. I REPLACED BOTH BULBS WITH NEW ONES, STILL DID NOT WORK. I GET A MESSAGE SAYING CHECK RIGHT FRONT AND LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNALS. I HAVE FOUND OUT THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED TO A LOT OF 2006 FORD FUSIONS, IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE WHEN CARS FRONT SIGNAL INDICATORS DONT WORK. I WAS TOLD THE SMART JUNCTION BOX NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. FORD HAS KNOWN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM,AND DONE NOTHING!

WHILE DRIVING MY ENGINE INTERMITTENTLY SHUTS OFF. THE CAR WILL STILL BE "ON". IN THE SENSE THAT THE AC AND RADIO AND OTHER FEATURES ARE STILL WORKING, BUT THE CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE OR MOVE. I HAVE TO PUT IT IN PARK. AND RESTART IT. "CHECK ENGINE" AND "CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM" INDICATOR LIGHTS POP UP ON THE DASH. I HAVE DONE SEVERAL THINGS, CHANGE BELTS, CHANGED ALTERNATORS, CHANGED CAM SHAFTS, AND FINALLY AFTER THAT THOUSAND DOLLARS WAS SPENT THE CODE I'M GETTING READ FROM MY MECHANIC IS FOR THE THROTTLE BODY SHUT DOWN.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. WHILE DRIVING 15 MPH, THE TURN SIGNALS BECAME INOPERABLE AND THE ENGINE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SMART JUNCTION BOX FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 114,000.

THE REAR TAIL LIGHT SOCKET AND BULB ARE CHARRED BLACK AS IF THEY CAUGHT FIRE. I FOUND THE ISSUE BECAUSE THE SIGNAL LIGHT FAILED. IT SMELLED BURNT. UNSURE IF THERE WAS ACTUAL FLAME OR NOT.

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, WHEN BOTH OF MY FRONT TURN SIGNALS WENT OUT. MY DASH INDICATED TO CHECK LF TURN LAMP AND CHECK RF TURN LAMP. I STOPPED AT THE STORE TO PURCHASE NEW BULBS, THINKING THE BULBS WERE BAD. I GOT HOME, AND NOTICED THAT THE LEFT FRONT PARKING LAMP WAS ON. I SHUT THE CAR OFF, AND THE LIGHT REMAINED ON. I HAD TO DISCONNECT THE LIGHT, OTHERWISE IT WOULD HAVE DRAINED MY BATTERY. I HAD NO FRONT WORKING TURN SIGNALS AND NO WORKING HAZARDS IN THE FRONT. THE BACK SIGNALS AND HAZARDS WORK FINE, BUT BLINK FAST. *TR

DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AT 80 MPH THE CAR LOOSES ACCELERATION POWER AND AN ORANGE WRENCH SYMBOL SHOWS UP ON THE DASHBOARD. I HAVE TO SAFELY COAST MY VEHICLE TO A SAFE SPOT OFF THE ROAD. WHEN CAR COMES TO COMPLETE STOP IT IDLES REALLY ROUGH AND LOUD AND MAKES A LOUD NOISE WHEN PLACED INTO PARK. I HAVE TO SHUT CAR OFF THEN RESTART AND I'M ABLE TO CONTINUE DRIVING AS IF NOTHING EVER HAPPENED. THE PROBLEM KEEPS HAPPENING AND IS STARTING TO OCCUR MORE OFTEN BUT ALWAYS WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY...PRAY TO GOD NOTHING SERIOUS EVER HAPPENS.

DRIVING BOTH HIGHWAY AND CITY STREETS. WHILE DRIVING TO WORK MY TURN LEFT SIGNAL BEGAN TO FLASH FASTER INDICATING A BURNED OUT BULB WHEN THE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL STARTED FLASHING FASTER. AFTER WORK I COULD NOT UNLOCK MY CAR AND HAD TO HAVE SECURITY UNLOCK MY CAR ONLY TO FIND MY BATTERY WAS DEAD. SECURITY THEN JUMPED STARTED THE CAR, I DROVE OFF TO BATTLE MY THRU RUSH HOUR WITH OUT TURN SIGNALS. THE NEXT MORNING THE CAR BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN, AFTER GETTING IT STARTED I NOTICED THE RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL BULB STAYED ON EVEN WHEN THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF,UNTIL BATTERY WAS DRAINED. I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC HE SAID THE SMART BOX WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED AND PROGRAMED, AND COST ABOUT $850! I WENT TO PICKUP THE VEHICLE HAD TROUBLE UNLOCKING THE DOOR AGAIN THIS TIME THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED AND DECELERATED INDEPENDENTLY AS THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE ECM FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 121,759.

WHILE DRIVING MY FUSION ON 11/1/15, BOTH FRONT TURN SIGNALS STOPPED WORKING WHEN ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A TURN ONTO AN INTERSTATE. THE DASH INDICATED A WARNING THAT THE LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL LAMP WAS NOT WORKING WHEN THE SIGNAL WAS ACTIVATED BY THE SWITCH. I ASSUMED A BULB HAD BURNT OUT. HOWEVER, ONCE MY CAR WAS TURNED COMPLETELY OFF, THE LEFT FRONT BULB REMAINED ON, DESPITE NO ONE BEING IN THE CAR. THE LIGHT REMAINED ON FOR MULTIPLE HOURS BEFORE I BECAME AWARE OF IT ONCE I RETURNED TO MY VEHICLE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WAS DRAINING THE BATTERY. I THE. HAD TO DRIVE MY CAR ON CITY STREETS AND THE INTERSTATE TO GET HOME. I TRIED PURCHASING NEW BULBS, BUT FOUND THAT BOTH BULBS CURRENTLY IN THE CAR WORKED FINE. NO WIRING WAS LOOSE OR FRAYED. LATER THAT WEEK, I BROUGHT IT TO A MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED IT AS A FAILED SMART JUNCTION BOX THAT HAS LED TO THE TURN SIGNAL NOT WORKING. I CONTACTED MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP IN ACCORDANCE WITH MY MECHANIC'S SUGGESTION. I WAS INFORMED THERE IS NO RECALL ON THIS PART. HOW IS THERE NO RECALL WHEN THIS IS CLEARLY A SAFETY ISSUE? MALFUNCTIONING TURN SIGNALS WHILE DRIVING WITH NO DIRECT CAUSE IS A PROBLEM. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT LEADS TO A LIGHT REMAINING ON LEADING TO KILLING THE CAR BATTERY. ACCORDING TO THE DEALERSHIP, THE ONLY SOLUTION IS PURCHASING A NEW JUNCTION BOX FROM THEM (NO LOCAL PARTS STORES CAN EVEN FIND ONE IN THEIR INVENTORY) AND HAVE IT INSTALLED AND PROGRAMMED BY THEM.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER. THE DEALER STATED A REMOTE STARTER THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY INSTALLED BURNED A FUSE. THE FUSE WAS REPLACED, BUT THE TURN SIGNALS FAILED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE SMART BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 101,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

CAR WOULD CUT OFF AT ANY TIME, AND CUT OFF SEVERAL TIMES WHILE IN MOTION.. HAD TO BE TOWED TWICE AND FINALLY ON 10/1/14 TOOK IT TO A FORD DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPAIRED IT AT A COST TO ME OF $1,462.98. SINCE THE FOCUS HAS A RECALL I WONDER IF THIS SHOULD ALSO HAVE A RECALL.

AFTER PARKING MY CAR OUTSIDE MY HOUSE, I OPENED MY DOOR AND THE HANDLE SHORT CIRCUITED AND EXPLODED BLOWING OUT A PIECE OF THE DOOR HANDLE OFF EXPOSING THE THE HANDLES SPRINGS AND WIRING. *TR

MY BRAKE LIGHTS AND REAR BLINKERS ARE NO LONGER WORKING. ONE DAY THEY JUST WENT OUT. OF COURSE I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC RIGHT AWAY SINCE IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS DRIVING AT NIGHT WITH NO BRAKE LIGHTS AND I HAD RECENTLY ENROLLED INTO NIGHT CLASSES FOR MY FALL SEMESTER. I LEFT MY CAR WITH MY MECHANIC FOR NEARLY A WEEK BECAUSE HE THOUGHT THE SWITCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. HE ORDERED A NEW ONE, BUT WHEN IT ARRIVED HE CALLED TO TELL ME THAT IT WASN'T WHAT HE THOUGHT IT WAS. HE LET ME KEEP THE NEW SWITCH FREE OF CHARGE SINCE HE WASN'T ABLE TO HELP ME AT ALL. I HAD TO WALK TO THE SHOP TO PICK UP MY CAR BECAUSE MY MECHANIC WAS JUST AS BAFFLED AS I WAS. SINCE SOMEONE WHO WENT TO SCHOOL FOR THIS KIND OF STUFF COULDN'T HELP ME, I FIGURED I WOULD GOOGLE THE ISSUE TO SEE IF THERE WERE ANY ANSWERS OUT THERE. I FOUND WEBSITES FULL OF PEOPLE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES. ( HTTP://WWW.CARCOMPLAINTS.COM/FORD/FUSION/2006/LIGHTS/TURN_SIGNALS_DO_NOT_WORK.SHTML ; HTTP://WWW.FORDFUSIONFORUM.COM/TOPIC/4304-PARKLAMPSTURN-SIGNAL-ISSUES/ ) *TR

MY BACK DOOR LOCK ON MY DRIVER SIDE STOPPED AUTOMATICALLY LOCKING AND UNLOCKING UNLESS I DO IT MANUALLY. IT WASN'T A HUGE ISSUE SINCE I DON'T HAVE A LOT OF PEOPLE IN MY BACKSEAT. LAST NIGHT, WHEN I GOT HOME FROM WORK, I REACHED TO OPEN MY DOOR AND NOTHING HAPPENED. I THOUGHT I WAS TIRED ENOUGH TO BE MISTAKEN, BUT IT HAPPENED. MY DOOR WILL NOW ONLY OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE LOCK STILL LOCKS AND UNLOCKS AUTOMATICALLY WHEN I USE THE BUTTON, BUT I HAVE TO ROLL DOWN MY WINDOW TO GET OUT. THIS CAN BE HAZARDOUS IF SOMEONE IS LOCKED IN THE CAR DURING A WRECK, FIRE, GAS LEAK, ETC. *TR

THE POWER LOCKS, AND INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES TO OPEN THE DOOR IN BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR/DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDES MALFUNCTION REGARDLESS OF USE/FORCE. THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE WARPS/BENDS AND BREAKS. THE LOCKING MECHANISM ALSO MALFUNCTIONS MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE INTERIOR. IN ONLY WAY TO EXIT THE VEHICLE IS TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW AND OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE. ONCE THE LOCKING MECHANISM HAS MALFUNCTIONED, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO LOCK THE VEHICLE VIA THE REMOTE ALARM OR WITH THE PHYSICAL KEY. THIS PRESENTS A MAJOR PROBLEM AS 1:IN THE EVENT THAT THE DRIVER AND OR PASSENGERS NEED TO EXIT THE VEHICLE IT IS IMPOSSIBLE UNLESS WINDOWS ARE ROLLED DOWN. 1B: IN THE EVENT THAT A CRASH OR WINDOWS MALFUNCTION, ALL OCCUPANTS ARE TRAPPED IN VEHICLE 2:THE VEHICLE IS WITHOUT PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT AS THE DOORS ARE UNABLE TO LOCK. *TR

RIGHT DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL DIDN'T WORK. *TR

THE FACTORY IGNITION COILS BEGAN TO SHORT AGAINST THE INTERIOR WALLS OF THE ENGINE HEAD ABOVE THE SPARK PLUGS. AS THEY SHORTED IT BURN THE POWER CONTROL MODULE (PCM). WITH NO PCM MY SPARK PLUGS FAILED TO LIGHT, CAUSING MY ENGINE BECOME FLOODED WITH GASOLINE, WHICH WASHED AWAY THE LUBRICANTS ON MY CYLINDER AND HEADS CAUSING ALL OF MY CYLINDERS AND HEADS TO BECOME DAMAGED. AS THIS HAPPENED BEFORE I WAS ABLE TO PULL OVER MY ENGINE SHUT OFF. CAUSING ME TO LOSE POWER STEERING AND ALL OF THE OTHER ELECTRICAL FUNCTIONING COMPONENTS. LUCKILY I WAS ON A FAIRLY QUIET ROAD AND AT SOMEWHAT LOW SPEEDS, BUT FOR THE MANY OTHERS THAT HAVE OR COULD EXPERIENCE THE SAME PROBLEM MIGHT NOT HAVE BEEN OR BE AS LUCKY. 2006 FORD FUSION 3.0L V6. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TRAVELING 60 MPH, SMOKE ENTERED THE VEHICLE FROM THE FRONT PANEL VENTS UNDERNEATH THE HOOD. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO STALL INTERMITTENTLY. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE POWER CONTROL MODULE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 124,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE 124,030. UPDATED 08/19/14*LJ UPDATED 8/30/2017*CN

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF A 2006 FORD FUSION WITH ONLY 65000 MILES. I RECENTLY HAD A VERY SCARY NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE DUE TO A DEFECT IN THIS VEHICLE. AFTER MUCH RESEARCH ONLINE AND SPEAKING TO CERTIFIED MECHANICS I AM SURE FORD IS WELL AWARE OF THE PROBLEM THAT EXISTS WITH THE IGNITION COILS EXPLODING DUE TO A COMPUTER MALFUNCTION. THIS CAUSES THE CAR TO STOP. MY CAR HAPPENED TO STOP WHILE I WAS ON THE FREEWAY. I WON'T GO INTO A LOT OF DETAIL BUT IT WAS SCARY AND COULD HAVE POTENTIALLY COST ME MY LIFE. FORTUNATELY I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY COAST TO THE SHOULDER AND WAIT FOR AAA TO COME TO MY RESCUE. I TOOK MY CAR TO A MECHANIC WHO GOT THE CAR RUNNING AGAIN AFTER REPLACING TWO IGNITION COILS AND MY SPARK PLUGS, BUT IT BROKE DOWN AGAIN ON THE WAY HOME FROM THE MECHANIC. AGAIN, THE CAR JUST SHUTS OFF WITHOUT WARNING, BUT THIS TIME I WAS LEFT IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC WAITING FOR AAA. MY CAR IS NOW AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP AND THE BILL IS REALLY HIGH. BOTH, MY MECHANIC AND THE FORD SERVICE TECHNICIAN CONFIRMED THAT THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE COMPUTER THAT IS CAUSING IGNITION COILS TO "BURN UP" OR "EXPLODE". I UNDERSTAND THAT THERE IS AN 8 YEAR OR 80,000 MILE WARRANTY WITH COVERS THIS ISSUE, BUT UNFORTUNATELY I AM OVER THE 8 YEARS (BUT STILL 15,000 UNDER THE MILEAGE). THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL. SOMEONE COULD POTENTIALLY LOSE THEIR LIFE BECAUSE FORD CHOOSES TO OVERLOOK THIS TICKING TIME BOMB. I AM NOW HAVING TO SPEND $2200 TO REPAIR THIS ISSUE WHEN FORD SHOULD BE THE ONE COVERING THE COST TO MAKE IT RIGHT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AS THE TRACTION CONTROL WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT COASTED ONTO THE SHOULDER AND WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE ENGINE AND RESUME NORMALLY. THE DEALER PERFORMED A DIAGNOSTIC WHICH LOCATED THE FAILURE AT THE THROTTLE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE COMPUTER SYSTEM AND THE THROTTLE BODY WAS REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURE WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 90,189 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 97,000. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TRAVELING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH, THE VEHICLE HESITATED AS THE ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE THEN STALLED AND FAILED TO RESTART. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS FOUND THAT THE MAIN COMPUTER AND IGNITION COIL FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS BEING REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 102,000...UPDATED 02-04-14 *BF ..

VEHICLE LOSSES PROPULSION AT VERY INCONVENIENT TIMES ( I.E. DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE, STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT, AND PULLING OUT INTO TRAFFIC). I HAVE ATTEMPT TWO FIX THE PROBLEM BECAUSE MECHANIC SAID THAT IT WAS MY THROTTLE BODY. I EVEN CALLED FORD, AND THEY SAID "IF THE WRENCH LIGHT IS ON IT WAS THE THROTTLE BODY." I JUST WANT THIS PROBLEM TO STOP HAPPING BECAUSE I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING TO FIX IT. CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS, BATTERY, THROTTLE BODY (TWICE), AND EVEN DID THE OIL. NOTHING WORKS. PLEASE HELP ME FIND OUT ABOUT THIS RECALL BECAUSE FORD IS ASKING ME FOR LARGE AMOUNTS OF MONEY WHICH I DON'T HAVE. I BOUGHT THIS CAR BRAND NEW AND HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED.

CAR STARTED MISFIRING WHILE ACCELERATING ABOUT A MONTH AGO. SOMETIMES THE KICK WAS SO MUCH IT FELT LIKE GETTING REAR ENDED. TWICE (BOTH INCIDENTS WITHIN THE SAME WEEK) THE VEHICLE WENT INTO LIMP MODE. THE FIRST TIME WAS DURING ACCELERATING TO MOVE AROUND A SLOW VEHICLE TO AVOID HITTING IT AND THE SECOND TIME THE CAR WOULD MISFIRE EVERYTIME IT REACHED 65 MPH. I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT AND WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN THE CAR WOULDN'T RESPOND TO THE GAS PEDAL. I TURNED OFF THE CAR AND TURNED IT BACK ON AND IT STARTED WORKING AGAIN. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT NEVER CAME ON. FORD DIAGNOSED IT AS THE THROTTLE BODY BEING STUCK OPEN OR CLOSED. THIS SAME PROBLEM TENDS TO HAPPEN WITH THIS SAME THROTTLE BODY IN A NUMBER OF VEHICLES. *TT

IGNITION KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION HOLE AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. *TR

FRONT TURN SIGNALS OR HAZARD LIGHTS INOPERATIVE. REARS WORKING O.K. THE INTERIOR DIRECTIONAL INDICATORS ON THE DASHBOARD SHOW THAT THE TURN SIGNALS WERE WORKING AND NO BULBS MALFUNCTIONING. BOTH FRONT SIGNAL BULBS WERE REPLACED. THE PROBLEM CONTINUED. THERE IS NO WAY FROM THE INTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE TO KNOW THAT THE SIGNALS OR HAZARDS ARE NOT WORKING PROPERLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE FORD DEALER AND IT WAS DIAGNOSED AS AN INTERNAL FAULT IN THE SMART JUNCTION BOX. COST OF REPAIR WAS $617.11. RESEARCH HAS SHOWN THIS TO BE A PROBLEM IN ALL MODELS OF FORD VEHICLES RECENTLY. *TR

FRONT TURN SIGNAL HAS STOPPED WORKING. BULB IS GOOD, FUSE IS GOOD, WIRES ARE GOOD. MECHANIC SAYS IT IS SMART JUNCTION BOX. *TR

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, IN THE RAIN, WHEN I GOT THE DASHBOARD MESSAGE THAT MY RF TURN SIGNAL WAS OUT. DROVE THE REST OF THE WAY HOME AND TURNED OFF THE IGNITION AND THE LF PARKING LIGHT STAYED ON. CHECKED THE BULBS AND FUSES AND ALL WERE FINE. DID SOME RESEARCH ONLINE AND FOUND OUT ABOUT SIMILAR ISSUES WITH THE SMART JUNCTION BOX. ONE SUGGESTION WAS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TO SEE IF IT RESET. TRIED THAT WITH NO SUCCESS. WE RECONNECTED THE BATTERY THE NEXT MORNING AND PARKING LIGHT CAME BACK ON. HAD TO REMOVE THE BULB SO I NOW HAD NO FRONT TURN SIGNALS. BROUGHT IT IN TO THE DEALERSHIP, ASSUMING THE WORST AFTER MY ONLINE RESEARCH, AND GOT THE NEWS IT WAS THE SJB TO THE TUNE OF $700. I WAS TOLD IT WASN'T UNDER RECALL BECAUSE IT'S NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. HAVING WORKING LIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS WOULD SEEM TO QUALIFY AS A SAFETY ISSUE TO ME? *TR

ON TUESDAY, AUGUST 14 I WAS MAKING MY WAY TO WORK AND MERGING ON TO A BUSY ROAD WHEN MY CAR STOPPED MOVE, THERE WAS NO WARNING, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, NOTHING. I PUSHED THE GAS, BUT WOULDN'T MOVE. BY SOME MIRACLE THE CAR BEHIND ME DID NOT HIT ME AND I WAS ABLE TO GET TO THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY. ONCE THERE, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BEGAN TO FLASH. ONCE I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR TO A SHOP, IT WAS DETERMINED IT FELL UNDER TSB 11-8-2. THE FIX FOR THIS, A NEW PCM, 6 COILS, 6 SPARK PLUGS, VALVE COVER GASKET, TUBE SEALS AND AN AIR FILTER ELEMENT, NOT TO MENTION A TOW TO THE LOCAL FORD DEALER TOLOAD THE NEW PCM. PCM'S IN 2006-2008 FORD FUSIONS, 2008 FORD TAURUS, 2007-2008 FORD EDGE, 2006 LINCOLN ZEPHYR 2007-2008 LINCOLN MKZ, MKX AND MERCURY 2006-2008 MILAN AND 2008 SABLE ARE FAULTY AND FORD KNOWS IT! *TR

AC / CLIMATE CONTROL EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR (EATC) FAILS TO REGISTER SET TEMPERATURE CAUSING LOSS OF COMPRESSOR OPERATION FOR THE PURPOSE OF DEFOGGING THE WINDSHIELD CREATING A VISIBILITY HAZARD, AS WELL AS THE INABILITY TO COOL THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. SYSTEM BLOWS ONLY WARM / HOT AIR, FOGGING THE WINDSHIELD AND CREATING A VISIBILITY HAZARD. *TR

I HAVE STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS LIKE EVERYONE ELSE IS DESCRIBING WITH MY 2006 FORD FUSION. I HAVE OWNED MY CAR FOR 2 MONTHS. I GET HOME FROM WORK & GO TO GET OUT OF THE CAR & THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. FROM READING THE OTHER COMPLAINTS ON HERE I FIGURED OUT IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE SHIFTER BUTTON. SOMETHING IS BREAKING ON/IN THE SHIFTER BUTTON & IT'S NOT ALLOWING THE CAR TO THINK IT HAS BEEN PUT IN PARK, THUS NOT ALLOWING THE KEY TO COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. YOU HAVE TO MESS WITH THE SILVER SHIFTER BUTTON & IF YOU CAN FIND IT'S HAPPY SPOT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO GET THE KEY OUT. I JUST CAN'T BELIEVE THAT FORD MADE THIS CAR WITH SUCH CRAPPY PLASTIC PARTS!! I'M STARTING TO WISH I WOULDN'T HAVE BOUGHT THIS CAR. THE SILVER IS PEELING OFF OF THE INSIDE DOOR HANDLES ALSO! THIS CAR IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION & HAS NOT BEEN TREATED ROUGH, SO I DON'T KNOW WHY IT'S STARTING TO FALL APART. FORD NEEDS TO RECALL THESE ISSUES WITH THE 2006 FORD FUSION'S!! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER FORD VEHICLE AFTER THIS. *TR

CRUISE CONTROL STARTED MALFUNCTIONING. I HAVE FIVE CONTROLS FOR MY CRUISE CONTROL. THE RESUME CRUISE JUST STOPPED WORKING. THE +SET BUTTON WHICH IS SUPPOSE TO SET CRUISE OR SPEED IT UP NOW RESUMES CRUISE. THE - SET NOW SETS THE CRUISE AND SPEEDS THE CAR UP AND NOT THE ON AND OFF ARE ONLY WORKING SOMETIMES. THIS IS A REAL SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE MYSELF OF SOMEONE ELSE COULD HIS THE - SET BUTTON TRYING TO SLOW OUR VEHICLE DOWN AND INSTEAD OF SLOWING DOWN THE CAR SPEEDS UP. *TR

THE TURN SIGNALS AND HIGH BEAMS NO LONGER WORK DURING OPERATION. ALL FUSES AND RELAYS WERE CHECKED AND ALL FINE. THE PARKING LIGHTS DO WORK WHEN HEAD LAMPS ARE ON, WORK WHEN HAZARDS ARE TURNED ON, AND ALSO FLASH WHEN LOCKED WITH KEY FOB. BUT WHEN USING TURN SIGNAL STALK NOTHING HAPPENS AND THEREFORE CAN NOT SIGNAL TO TURN OR CHANGE LANES. ALSO HIGH BEAMS DO NOT ACTIVATE IN ANY POSITION OF THE SIGNAL STALK. THE SJB IS THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE WHEN THE ACCELERATOR WAS DEPRESSED. THE FAILURE CAUSED ANOTHER VEHICLE TO CRASH INTO THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BOTH THE DEALER AND A PRIVATE REPAIR SHOP WHERE THE REPAIR SHOP CONFIRMED THAT THE THROTTLE MALFUNCTIONED AND A CALIBRATION WAS NEEDED FOR THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SOFTWARE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED, BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 72,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 100,000. KMJ

I TOO HAVE A 2006 FORD FUSION SE WITH A SMARTBOX MALFUNCTION. MY DRIVER'S SIDE DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL DOESN'T WORK. MY MECHANIC SAID HE CHECKED ALL THE WIRES LENDING TO THE BOX AND THEY ARE FINE, IT'S THE BOX. IT WILL COST AROUND $600 TO REPLACE. FORD NO LONGER MAKES THIS PART, SO HE HAS TO SEARCH JUNKYARDS FOR IT. HE CAN'T REROUTE THE WIRES BECAUSE THE DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL IN THE BACK IS LOCATED IN THE PLACE WHERE HE WOULD REROUTE IT. I NOW HAVE A VEHICLE THAT WILL NOT PASS INSPECTION, THAT I CAN'T DRIVE "SAFELY" AND IF THE PART IS FOUND I WILL HAVE TO TAKE OUT A LOAN JUST TO PAY TO GET FIXED. WHY! *TR

I OWNED A 2006 FORD FUSION, THIS CAR CAUGHT ON FIRE AT 4AM. IT WAS RULED AS AN ELECTRICAL FIRE. THERE WERE NO PROBLEMS LEADING UP TO THIS FIRE. *KB

SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR IN SPRING OF 06, BULBS NEED TO BE REPLACED QUITE FREQUENTLY. WHEN I CHANGE THEM, THE OLD BULB LOOKS BLACK AND BURNT. A FEW DAYS AGO, I WAS DRIVING AND MY FRONT, RIGHT DIRECTIONAL STOPPED WORKING. I REPLACED THE BULB, THINKING THAT WAS THE ISSUE AGAIN, BUT IT WASN'T. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THE SMART JUNCTION BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE IT SHORTED OUT INTERNALLY. ESTIMATE IS $600 AFTER I HAD TO PAY $100 JUST TO FIND THE PROBLEM. THAT SEEMS LIKE AN EXPENSIVE FIX FOR ONE DIRECTIONAL. I CAN'T AFFORD THAT RIGHT NOW, SO I CAN'T FIX IT. SEEMS RIDICULOUS. CAR HAS 85,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE INDICATOR/HAZARD LIGHT NOT WORKING. LEFT REAR DRIVER SIDE WORKS. CONSENSUS IS EITHER A SMART JUNCTION BOX OR HEADLIGHT HARNESS. COST OF REPAIRS AROUND $600 NOT INCLUDING LABOR. VERY COSTLY FOR ONE TURN SIGNAL. BIG MISTAKE ON FORD'S PART.

IN 2006 I BOUGHT A 2006 FORD FUSION. I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS SINCE I GOT IT BLOWING BULBS IN THE TURN SIGNALS. I NOW FIND OUT THAT IT IS MY SMART JUNCTION BOX CAUSING THIS AND FORD MOTOR WILL DO NOTHING ABOUT IT. PART OF THE SMART JUNCTION BOX IS MELTED TOGETHER. THIS IS FORD'S FAULTY DESIGN AND THEIR FAULT. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEYS WOULD NOT RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION UNLESS THE BUTTON ON THE GEAR SHIFT WAS PUSHED IN TO RELEASE THE KEY. THE CONTACT HAD TO REMOVE A PIECE OF PLASTIC IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE CONTACT NOTICED NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS REGARDING THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO A DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSTIC TEST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 34,000.

WHEN DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE UNDER CRUISE CONTROL, THE ENGINE SUDDENLY DROPPED TO IDLE AND WOULD NOT RESPOND TO THE THROTTLE. FORTUNATELY I WAS ABLE TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WITHOUT BEING HIT FROM BEHIND. THE CAR SHOWED TWO WARNING LIGHTS: TRACTION CONTROL AND THROTTLE CONTROL. THE CAR WOULD STILL NOT RESPOND TO THE THROTTLE. AFTER TURNING OFF THE CAR AND RESTARTING IT, THE LIGHTS WENT OUT AND THE CAR WAS DRIVABLE AGAIN. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER, WHO CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY, FLUSHED THE FUEL INJECTORS AND REPROGRAMMED THE PCM. WHATEVER ACTUALLY HAPPENED, THE FAIL SAFE CONDITION SHOULD NOT BE TO SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN TO IDLE WITHOUT THE ABILITY TO CONTROL THE ENGINE SPEED. IT WAS JUST FORTUNATE THAT THE CAR WAS NOT HIT FROM BEHIND. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. HE HAD TO USE THE SPARE KEY TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE DOORS. SINCE THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION HE LEFT IT THERE. EVENTUALLY THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE CONTINUED TO OCCUR. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THEY COULD REPLACE THE KEY FOR $180.00 AT THE OWNERS EXPENSE OR REPLACE THE ENTIRE SHIFT ASSEMBLY FOR APPROXIMATELY $500.00. THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR HANDLE WAS ALSO DEFECTIVE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE APPROXIMATELY 92,000.

RIGHT FRONT SIDE TURN SIGNAL LIGHT FAILED INSPECTION REPLACED BULB AND ELECTRICAL HARNESS, STILL NO POWER. DIAGNOSED AS DEFECTIVE SMART BOX FORD ESTIMATES IT AT $800 TO REPLACE. *TR 4 YEAR OLD FORD FUSION (SUMMER 2006)

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY. THE KEY WOULD NOT RELEASE AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE STEERING WHEEL COLUMN WAS REMOVED TO ASSIST WITH THE REMOVAL OF THE IGNITION KEY. HOWEVER, THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. THE CONTACT STATED THE VEHICLE WAS BEING DRIVEN EVEN THOUGH THE IGNITION KEY WAS NOT REMOVED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED AT THE TIME OF THE COMPLAINT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 68,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

BOUGHT A USED 2006 FUSION 6 MONTHS AGO, AND THE SMART JUNCTION BOX (SJB) APPARENTLY SHORTED OUT. IT HAPPENED RIGHT AFTER IT RAINED, AND WAS ACTING UP A COUPLE MONTHS AGO AFTER HEAVY RAIN AS WELL, LEADING ME TO BELIEVE THAT THERE IS MOISTURE GETTING TO IT SOMEHOW. REPLACEMENT WOULD COST OVER 600$ AND IF THERE WAS MOISTURE GETTING TO THE ORIGINAL ONE, HOW LONG WILL THE NEW ONE TAKE TO HAVE THE SAME THING HAPPEN, ANOTHER 4 YEARS? *TR

THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. HIS KEYS CONTINUED TO GET STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND HE CANNOT REMOVE IT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO DEALER AND WAS TOLD IT WILL COST $400 TO BE REPAIRED BECAUSE OF NO RECALLS AND WARRANTIES ON THIS FAILURE. THE FORD MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CALLED. THE VIN IS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 23,000....MW

2006 FORD FUSION KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION; GEAR SHIFT DOES NOT GO INTO PARK EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKS AS THOUGH IT HAS. *TR

2006 FORD FUSION KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION; GEAR SHIFT DOES NOT GO INTO PARK EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKS AS THOUGH IT HAS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. HE CANNOT REMOVE HIS VEHICLE KEYS FROM THE IGNITION. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN INSPECTED BY THE DEALER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 29,300.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT TURNED THE IGNITION TO THE "OFF" POSITION; HOWEVER, THE IGNITION KEY FAILED TO RELEASE AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. THE KEY IS CURRENTLY IN THE IGNITION. AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE MALFUNCTION. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE CONTACT HAD CONCERNS OF THE SAFETY RISK INVOLVED. THE VIN WAS REJECTED FROM THE SYSTEM. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 63,000.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER PARKING THE VEHICLE SHE COULD NOT REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. SHE IS UNABLE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE AND SAFELY SECURE IT. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURERS REPRESENTATIVE STATED THAT SINCE HER VEHICLE EXCEEDED ITS WARRANTY THEY WOULD NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY REPAIRS. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 24,000. UPDATED 10/13/09. *LJ THE CONSUMER WAS TOLD THE KEY GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION WAS DRIVER ERROR. UPDATED 10/13/09. JB

I HAVE ABOUT 30,000 MILES ON MY CAR. DUE TO A LEAK AT MY OIL FILTER (INFO PROVIDED BY DEALER) MY OIL LEVEL GOT TOO LOW. MY OIL LIGHT FLASHED ON TWICE BUT DID NOT REMAIN ON. I CHECKED AND ADDED OIL. I DROVE IT INTO THE DEALER TWO DAYS LATER. THEY RAN TESTS AND SAID MY BEARINGS WERE BAD AND I NEEDED A NEW ENGINE. MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT NEVER CAME ON AND MY OIL LIGHT NEVER STAYED ON. BECAUSE I HAVE NO RECEIPTS FROM MY OIL CHANGES THIS WILL NOT BE COVERED BY WARRANTY. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FUSION. THE KEYS WOULD NOT REMOVE FROM THE IGNITION AFTER THE CONTACT SHUT OFF THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER STATED THAT IT WAS A COMMON FAILURE WITH THE FORD FOCUS MODELS. THE CONTACT MUST PAY $89.00 FOR THE DEALER TO PERFORM A DIAGNOSTIC. THE CURRENT MILEAGE IS 38,556 AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 38,500.