2015 Dodge Charger Transmission Problems

Your car stalled while driving at 20 MPH and wouldn't shift into gear, with check engine and traction control lights coming on. After restarting, it worked briefly but the stalling and shifting problem happened repeatedly when accelerating. A mechanic found the oil pan was empty, and the dealer diagnosed a major oil leak from a failed oil filter housing. The fix will require replacing the oil filter housing and refilling the oil system.

Your drive shaft bearing has completely failed and separated, causing the drive shaft to move loosely inside the vehicle. You also have torn CV boots that are leaking. A repair shop estimated the cost to replace the drive shaft at over $3,000. The repair will involve removing and replacing the drive shaft assembly and CV boots.

Your transmission is showing signs of failure shortly after purchasing the car two months ago. You're concerned it could stop working while you're driving. The transmission will likely need professional diagnosis and possibly repair or replacement.

You noticed a noise when turning right and accelerating in your 2015 Dodge Charger. A mechanic found that the drive shaft carrier bearing is severely damaged and said it's unsafe to drive, as complete failure could cause additional damage or an accident. The entire drive shaft needs to be replaced at a cost over $2,000, which the mechanic suspects may be due to a defective part or manufacturing defect rather than normal wear. Repair will involve removing and replacing the complete drive shaft assembly.

Your car started vibrating while driving, but no warning lights appeared on the dashboard. When you took it to the dealer, they found that the transmission driveline needed to be replaced. The issue occurred at around 34,000 miles.

This problem first appeared on 2/1/23. After driving the vehicle and i park, when i place the car shifter in park and press the push to start button to turn off the car, the car shuts off but the start button stays in ACC mode and will not go to OFF mode option no matter how many times you press it. The vehicle will go from ACC then to Start only. The warning lights display on the dash saying, Service Shifter, Vehicle not in park and traction light appears then shows Service Airbag. The vehicle is in park but the push button will not allow it to go into OFF mode. it will stay on ACC. The only two options are ACC and Start. The vehicle believes the car is not in park but it is. No matter what you do it will not go into OFF mode. The only way to temporarily put it in OFF is to disconnect the battery. When you start the car again, it will turn on but when it's time to turn the vehicle off it will repeat the same problem and stay in ACC and will not allow it to be pushed into OFF mode This has not been inspected by the manufacturer, dealer or insurance company yet. In my research of the problem other Dodge Charges have the same issue. Safety issue is not being able to turn the car off completely. unknown of other safety risks

The center Carrier support bearing is defective. As I look online on how to repair it I see NUMEROUS occasions of this happening in similar cars as mine. This part allows the drive shaft to not move up and down. When the center support bearing is defective and pops out of place it allows the drive shaft to move up and down. Which ruins other parts of the drive shaft and transfer cases. Dodge needs to be held responsible for their faulty part.

The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Charger. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lost motive power and stalled without warning. The contact coasted the vehicle to the side of the roadway and restarted the vehicle. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the TCM had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and confirmed that the VIN was not under recall for the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 79,000.

I had the front shaft come out and broke the transfer case and Differential took it to two different dealers both told me I was off reading in it but it happened leaving a stop light on my way to work at 630 am. So they did not fix I had it wasn't cheap the car I think.onlu had 30000 on it..the car sat for 1.5yrs until I had enough money to repair it..filed a complaint with you guys the number was 11230317

1/7/16 Unknown vehicle vibration reported to Dodge dealership soon after purchase, and several times thereafter. Multiple test drives/inspections performed at three separate Dodge dealerships. 7668 Miles On Vehicle 5/2/17 Multi-point inspection sheet completed. Dashcam video shows technician did not complete inspection as indicated. Started direct line of communication with FCA to find new dealership for vibration and inspection issue's. 7/26/18 Second dealership verifies a vibration at low speed, BUT co-owner of dealership caught on dashcam driving in extreme excess of the posted speed limit on country roads. 8/10/18 Third dealership VERIFIED CUSTOMER COMPLAINT and scheduled in depth inspection in four weeks later. Wrote DID NOT LIFT on final inspection sheet and blamed exhaust drone for kicking off MDS System. 4/22/2019 Vehicle towed to original dealership for leaking water pump with loose pulley. Multi-point vehicle inspection sheet completed. Performed? *Inspection sheets have a section under Vehicle Checkup Plus to inspect either u-joints/driveshafts. Depending on dealership. 8/24/2021 Fourth shop, not affiliated with FCA, allowed me to inspect driveshaft/u-joints and the CLUNK noise heard when driving in reverse was the driveshaft because the Driveshaft Center Support Bearing had failed. The car was purchased August of 2015 and now has approximately 63,6xx miles on it. The bearing began to fail at 7,668 miles. If I didn't drive as defensively as I do, the driveshaft would have been in the cabin by 25,000 miles. There are entire forums dedicated to the early failure of this part. **Vehicle feels shaky and unstable

At about 30 mph I began hearing a clicking noise coming from the underneath of the car. No sensor/warning lights on, car was placed on a computer and nothing showed wrong. The noise continued to get louder and then there was a vibration from the front end. Upon further investigation it appears the carrier bearing is out but you should e to replace the entire drive shaft, which is 700+ dollars and most places are 8-12 weeks out for delivery. It’s unsafe to drive the car, which is my only means of transportation to and from work, which also pays the payment.

Driving the car at 10 mph then it stops and says place car in park then drive on the dash IN DRIVE basically the car stalls out and it does it randomly now no codes went off no check engine light just randoms stops also had the car in eco mode both times when it has cut off

The problem has been identified by independent service center. Issues with drive shaft which is wobbling and making sound when driving on 60MPH and while stopping the vehicle. The independent service center reported that it’s not safe to drive the car.

The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Charger. The contact stated while driving 35 mph, he heard a knocking sound with no warning lights illuminated. The contact took the vehicle to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that the front driveshaft needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and the contact advised to take the vehicle to the dealer for diagnosis and confirmation that the failure was associated with NHTSA Campaign Numbers: 18V281000 (Power Train) and 17V097000 (Power Train). The dealer confirmed the failure was the same and informed the contact that per the manufacturer, he was responsible for the repair and would be reimbursed if a recall was initiated that included the Vin. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 94,000.

I HAVE TAKEN MY CAR TO A REPAIR SHOP BECAUSE OF A SOUND THE CAR MADE WHEN DRIVING, HE SAID IT IS THE DRIVELINE BEARING. THESE ARE NON-REPAIRABLE SO YOU NEED TO HAVE THE ENTIRE DRIVE SHAFT REPLACED. WHEN CALLING FOR THE PART IT IS BACKORDERED EVERYWHERE BECAUSE IT SEEMS TO BE A CONSISTENT PROBLEM AND THEY ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. IF THIS IS A DESIGN PROBLEM AND THEY MUST KNOW BECAUSE IT IS BACKORDERED EVERYWHERE WHY IS THERE NOT A RECALL TO FIX IT. *TR

I TOOK MY CAR TO PERFORMANCE DODGE AT 95 LOOP ROAD, CENTERVILLE, OHIO 45459 ON 8/30/19 TO GET MY RECALLS FIXED. I PICKED UP MY CAR AFTER THEY TOLD ME REPAIRS WERE COMPLETED. I HAVE THE RECEIPT FROM THIS CAR DEALERSHIP THAT SAYS THEY PERFORMED THESE RECALLS (RECALL U60 AND RECALL V01). I'M NOT ABLE TO UPLOAD MY RECEIPT BUT I CAN FAX IT OVER TO YOU IF YOU NEED TO REVIEW. SO I THOUGHT MY RECALLS HAD BEEN FIXED BUT I KEPT RECEIVING PHONE CALLS AND LETTERS THAT I STILL HAD RECALLS ON MY VEHICLE THAT NEEDED FIXED. SO I CHECKED MY VIN # ON THIS WEBSITE AND IT STILL SHOWS THAT I HAVE THESE OPEN RECALLS ON MY DODGE CHARGER. CAN THIS PLEASE BE INVESTIGATED? CAN'T THE DEALERSHIP GET IN TROUBLE FOR SAYING THEY FIXED THE PROBLEM, IF THEY TRULY DIDN'T? MY NAME IS [XXX] AND MY ADDRESS IS [XXX]. MY PHONE # IS [XXX] AND MY HUSBAND [XXX]. I LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM SOMEONE REGARDING THIS ISSUE. THANK YOU! INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 DODGE CHARGER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SERVICE SHIFTER WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. IN ADDITION, THE GEAR SHIFTER FAILED TO ENGAGE INTO DRIVE HOWEVER, WORKED AS DESIGNED AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO (BENCHMARK CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM BENCHMARK CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM (205) 957-1313) BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 96, 000.THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

FUSE 26 IN SECONDARY PDC IN TRUCK FOR POWER TO TCM (TRANSMISSION) MODULE BLOWN. VEHICLE WOULD NOT SHUT OFF COMPLETELY DUE TO SHIFTER PHYSICALLY IN PARK, BUT SOFTWARE INDICATING STILL IN DRIVE. COULD NOT OPEN TRUCK WITH EITHER FOB BUTTON OR TRUCK BUTTON ON DASH TO CHECK FUSES OR DISCONNECT BATTERY. NO EXTERIOR KEY HOLE TO OPEN TRUNK MANUALLY. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE IF CAR CATCHES FIRE.

PREMATURE FAILURE OF WATER PUMP AND RADIATOR...THESE TWO INCIDENTS HAPPENED DURING INTERSTATE TRAVEL CAUSING THE CAR TO OVERHEAT LEAVING ME STRANDED IN UNFAMILIAR TERRITORY. VEHICLE IS NOT DRIVEN ON A DAILY BASES THIS INCIDENT HAPPENED AT 31000 MILES

I FILED A REPORT ABOUT A YEAR AGO NEVER GOT THE VEHICLE FIXED.I WAS JUST READING IN THE WEBSITE FOUND THIS RECALL 17V097000 ABOUT THE FRONT PROPELLER FOR THE DRIVE SHAFT THIS IS WHAT HAPPENED TO MY CHARGER IT BLEW OUT THE FRONT AXLES FRONT DIFF. AND TRANFER CASE DEALER WILL NOT REPAIR AND ALSO CANCELED MY REMAING WARRANTY

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 DODGE CHARGER. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED PER AN UNKNOWN RECALL REGARDING THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE, THE TRANSMISSION SEIZED WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS UNABLE TO RESTART AND THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO ALL STAR DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP RAM (2590 RANGE PARK DR, DENHAM SPRINGS, LA 70726 (225) 665-8266) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 134,237.

CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURE DUE TO FAULTY LIFTER DESIGN AND POOR QUALITY CAM SHAFT MATERIAL. CAN CAUSE LOSS OF ENGINE POWER AND ABILITY TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE. ENGINES TYPICALLY FAIL BETWEEN 80,000 AND 160,000 MIES WITH HIGH CERTAINTY.

I STARTED A UCONNECT SYSTEM UPDATE WHILE I WAS STILL PARKED. THE DISCLAIMER SAID NOTHING ABOUT TO NOT UPDATE WHILE DRIVING. I STARTED THE UPDATE AND STARTED DRIVING (MY COMMUTE IS ABOUT 25 MINUTES). IT TOOK ABOUT 10-15 MINUTES TO DOWNLOAD THE UPDATE. ONCE IT DOWNLOADED, THE SYSTEM RESET. AT THIS TIME I WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL ON A FREEWAY THAT WAS ENDING, SO I TURNED OFF MY CRUISE CONTROL AND THEN MY CAR JOLTED FORWARDED AS IF IT WERE IN A VERY LOW GEAR AND ALMOST CAUSED ME TO CRASH. I THEN WAS STUCK IN 1ST GEAR WHILE THE SYSTEM WAS REBOOTING AND COULDN'T AUTOMATICALLY OR MANUALLY SHIFT PAST 1ST GEAR LEAVING ME STUCK ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THEN A SCREEN POPPED UP SAYING THERE WAS 50 MINUTES LEFT ON THE UPDATE. I WAS STUCK ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD UNTIL THE UPDATE FINISHED. AFTER THAT, MY GEARS WERE SHIFTING NORMALLY. DURING THIS TIME, I CALLED DODGE AND OPENED A CASE LETTING THEM KNOW WHAT HAPPENED. THE PICTURE I PROVIDED WAS A PICTURE AFTER I WAS ALREADY STOPPED ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. *TT *BF *CN UPDATED 10/29/18*JB

WHILE CRUISING IN 'DRIVE' IF THE OPERATOR PUTS THE SHIFTER IN 'NEUTRAL' IN ORDER TO COAST AND THEN THE VEHICLE IS BROUGHT TO A COMPLETE STOP, THE VEHICLE UNEXPECTEDLY BECOMES IMMOBILIZED WHEN PUT BACK INTO 'DRIVE'. THE DASH THEN NOTIFIES THE DRIVER TO APPLY THE BRAKE AND CYCLE THE SHIFTER BACK INTO 'PARK' AND THEN BACK TO 'DRIVE' IN ORDER TO MOVE THE VEHICLE. NOW MY CONCERN HERE IS THAT IF A DRIVER WERE TO FIND THEMSELVES IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION (LIKE ON RAILROAD TRACKS WITH A TRAIN APPROACHING) THEY MAY PANIC AND NOT BE ABLE TO COMPLETE THIS PROCESS FAST ENOUGH IN ORDER TO MOVE THE VEHICLE TO SAFETY.

THE VEHICLE IS A MARKED POLICE VEHICLE THAT WAS LEFT RUNNING AT THE SCENE OF AN INVESTIGATION. DASHBOARD CAMERA VIDEO SHOWS THAT APPROXIMATELY 14 MINUTES AFTER IT WAS PARKED THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPED INTO REVERSE AND DROVE OFF, DOWN AN EMBANKMENT AND INTO A TREE. AN INVESTIGATION WAS CONDUCTED BY FCA AND IN A LETTER BY MR. KON OF SPECIAL INVESTIGATIONS IT WAS NOTED THAT THE "INSPECTION REVEALED THAT THERE WAS NO EVIDENCE OF A MALFUNCTION....". THIS WAS WRITTEN DESPITE THE FACT THE SITUATION WAS REPLICATED BY THE INVESTIGATOR IN THE PRESENCE OF ONE OF OUR CITY MECHANICS. FURTHERMORE, MR. KON QUOTED THE OWNERS MANUAL AND STATED "...YOU SHOULD NEVER EXIT A VEHICLE WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING" WHICH IS NOT AT ALL PRACTICAL FOR A POLICE VEHICLE.

WHILE SLOWING DOWN FROM ABOUT 40MPH TO ABOUT 20MPH TO MAKE RIGHT HAND TURNS, ENGINE SHIFTS VERY ROUGHLY FROM 3RD TO 2ND TO 1ST AND AFTER COMPLETING THE RIGHT TURN REMAINS STUCK IN LOW GEAR AND DOES NOT SHIFT AS ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED. ALMOST STALLS, BUT AFTER A FEW SECONDS, THE NORMAL SHIFT PATTERN RESUMES. THIS HAS HAPPENED INTERMITTENTLY A FEW OTHER TIMES, SUCH AS APPROACHING A RED TO GREEN TRAFFIC SIGNAL. WHEN APPROACHING RED LIGHT, I DECELERATE TO STOP BUT DON'T MAKE COMPLETE STOP AS LIGHT CHANGES TO GREEN, CAR DOWNSHIFTS INTO 1ST GEAR BUT WONT UPSHIFT SMOOTHLY INTO 2ND/3RD GEAR WHEN RE-ACCELERATING THE VEHICLE.

CAR WILL JUST DIE WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED AND RPM'S WILL JUST DROP OFF. SOMETIMES IT WILL COME BACK ON AS IT WERE IN NEUTRAL THEN GO INTO SECOND GEAR WHILE SHIFTER IS STILL IN DRIVE AND CAR JERKS AROUND AND LUNGES FORWARD. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME AT 10MPH - 60 MPH. IT HAS BEEN DOING IT FOR A FEW MONTHS.

SAMIE ISSUE REPORTED ON 8/24/16 FOR TRANSMISSION JERKS AND SLIPS AS IT RUNS THROUGH GEARS WHEN CAR IS COLD. ONCE WARM, IT DOESN'T DO IT AT ALL. THE JERKS OR SLIPS ARE NOT SLIGHT EITHER, THEY ARE HARD AND DOESN'T MATTER HOW MUCH ACCELERATION THERE IS OR ISN'T...THE GEAR CHANGES ARE VERY NOTICEABLE AND JERKY! DOESN'T MATTER IF YOU ARE DRIVING STRAIGHT, TAKING A TURN...ANYTIME YOU ACCELERATE IT SHIFTS VERY HARD! I BOUGHT IT NEW ON 3/18/16 ALTHOUGH IT IS A 2015 SXT CHARGER...HAD LESS THAN 50 MILES ON IT BUT IS CURRENTLY SITTING AROUND 7000 MILES. IT HAS DONE IT SINCE I BOUGHT IT FROM THE DEALER. STILL DOES IT TO THIS DAY. EVEN AFTER RUNNING FOR A FEW MINUTES VIA CAR STARTER.

THE 8 SPEED TRANSMISSION JERKS AND SLIPS DURING THE 1-2, 2-3 AND SOMETIMES IN THE 3-4 SHIFT. THIS OCCURS UNTIL THE CAR HAS WARMED UP. AFTER WARMING UP IT SHIFT AS IT SHOULD. THIS OCCURS EVERY TIME THE CAR IS COLD AND BEING DRIVEN. THE DEALERSHIP HAS TRIED TO CORRECT THIS MATTER AND HAS FAILED.

UPON ARRIVING HOME AFTER AN 800 MILE TRIP, (IN THE EVENING AROUND 10:30 PM) WHEN SHIFTING INTO REVERSE TO BACK INTO DRIVEWAY, I EXPERIENCED A COMPLETE ECU CONTROLLER FAILURE AND EVERYTHING WENT BLACK. AND ENGINE DIED. AFTER A FEW SECONDS IT APPEARS THE COMPUTER REBOOTED ITSELF AND THE DASH CAME BACK UP AND THE CAR RESTARTED. IT APPEARS THERE IS A REAL-TIME PROGRAM BUG IN THE CAR AND THE FIRMWARE NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED. HAD THIS HAPPENED ON THE ROAD, IT WOULD HAVE CAUSE A SERIOUS CRASH. I WAS THEN ABLE TO BACK INTO THE DRIVEWAY. NO ERROR CODE WAS POSTED! I BELIEVE THAT THE REALTIME SOFTWARE IS EXPERIENCING FRAME OVERRUNS AND WE KNOW THAT CAUSES RUNAWAY CONDITIONS LIKE IN THE TOYOTA CAMRY. I BELIEVE THE NHTSA SHOULD REVIEW EVERY CAR FIRMWARE BEFORE RELEASE TO INSURE SPARE TIME REQUIREMENTS ARE MET AND RUNAWAY CONDITIONS CAN NOT EXIST. (YES, I USED TO DEVELOP REAL TIME SOFTWARE FOR CONTROL SYSTEMS)